Chicago Electric Circular saw sharpener
Hmmm, that could be quite useful!! On clearance at HF and not available at any store near me.

I watched a couple of YouTube videos. On commenter said it came with a 120 grit diamond wheel but to get a well sharpened tooth you need to go back twice, with the final diamond wheel of 500 grit. Do you know if those are sold for this device?

Also comments that some (most?) blades don't have straight teeth but teeth alternately angled one way then the other. Comment was because the guy demoing the machine was surprised that the grinding wheel hit one tooth hard then barely touched the next. So he basically flatted off the teeth angled one way and cut the tip off the others. Still cut better than when he started though, that was one nasty old blade. The machine is supposed to be able to pitch up to 25° so it should be able to sharpen the pitched teeth as well.
 
I believe I mentioned that youtube had several videos that were not worth watching.
the machine comes with no set up instructions.. it took me two days to set mine up. actually, I was all set to take it back to HF.. but I finally found one unnoticed set screw.
actually my wife did. she said what is that screw for ??
the machine is set at the factory for shipping. I actually had to reset where the motor sat.
I did not see the video you described. I will do a search for it.
but off hand, I think I know what that guy did (did not) do.
He did not flip the blade over to do the opposite tooth grind, thus grinding off all the sets (tips)..
another thing I discovered. for the tooth advance stop. you do not register off of a tooth. you register off of the gullet..
I used the diamond wheel that came with the machine.
after sharpening my very first 10" carbide blade, I put it onto my table saw and took a full 1" thick x 16" long piece of red oak. cross cut it and ripped it. both surfaces looked like I had sanded them
carbide tips are not flat. they have a slight undercut.
you just barely touch the tooth with the cutting wheel.
also do not feed the wheel into the wheel.
feed the wheel into the gullet area and turn the blade into the wheel with light pressure then back the motor out.
after setting mine up, I would not do anything that youtube jockeys do.
after doing my 10" blade, I set up and did my hand circular saw blade. it took me only 15 minutes.
now it cuts better than new.
also carbide..
 
another thing I discovered. for the tooth advance stop. you do not register off of a tooth. you register off of the gullet..
Yes, one guy figured that out. The first one had the register 2 or 3 teeth away from the one being sharpened and against the back side not in deep. The second guy had it on the next tooth over and did figure out that you want it all the way in the gullet. However he was pulling the stone across the tooth while pulling the motor to the saw blade. The first guy did what you said, bring the stone into the tooth area then rotate the blade to the tooth. Seems you have figured out what each of them did, only halfway ;)

Are teeth on all saw blades set at the same angle so you can just flip the blade over (which might be a lot easier than flipping the motor)?
 
I might have stated something wrong... on this sharpener, you flip the motor , not flip the blade.
steel blades for cross cutting have their teeth sharpened along side of the tooth . every other tooth has the oposite side sharpened.
the carbide teeth are sharpened flat across with a slight "hook" or "scoop"
I have not mastered the steel crosscut blade yet..
the grinder is out in the unheated sun porch. too cold for me to sit out there and experiment.
I read somewhere that the angle for crosscut was about 13 degrees. I don't think my motor tilts much more than that..
I watched one guy on youtube jiggle his motor and mention the it was kind of loose.. there is an adjustment for that. there is also a stop screw to limit how far the motor will slide on the two round skids..
I replaced the set screws with thumb screws. no more fumbling with alan wrenches or open end wrenches...
 
Rich , I wish I shared your confidence in me.
I just put the blade on the miter saw this morning.
despite two teeth missing, and my horse s,,t sharpening, it did
cut easily through a 2x4 .. I will keep it aside for a back up blade
kind of cool outside today. so I hooked up the battery charger onto the rider lawn mower and came in the house ..
In cleaning yesterday I came across two saw blades in the bottom of a plastic bucket. I have never seen a saw so rusty .
moral of the story, don't store blades in a plastic bucket.
 
Adding an oily rag seems to help with rust. Of course that's a fire hazard nowadays
The oily rag can pose a hazard,,,, An oiled saw blade does not,,,, without the rag.
BTW,,, The linseed oil is the one to be super careful about. :old
I have an assortment of spare blades. They just hang on a 16D nail on the garage wall. No rust issues.
 

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