Goat Thread

[HipMystic]

(Delete if not allowed)
I found two different lists in my goat health books-I don’t have everything listed here in my kits. I’d make sure you have everything in the first list, and the first few items in the second list. You’ll definitely want the gloves at least

Spoiler: Raising Goats Naturally- Debora Niemann

Spoiler: Raising Goats For Dummies-Cheryl K. Smith

 

[laura29532]

I will get photos. I have also been watching LOTS of "Weed 'em & Reap" videos too.

I have a friend that says look at under the eye lids, it should be pink. if you see worms, worm them. he is an old hand with goats, been raising for 40 years. he has Nubian and Saanens. everything he has told me is spot on with the vet. you know the old way is best most times.! lol

 

[TwoShepherds]

Congratulations on getting goats! They are so much fun. We just got Nigerian Dwarf Goats last spring. They will be a year old in April.

I apologize for not having the time to read all the previous responses...so this may be redundant.

2.) I know that ND goats tend to get leg issues. So do you have recommended supplements? I know copper is one goats may be deficient in.

They will need a good loose mineral available at all times. I use sweetlix meatmaker. You might also have to give an additional copper bolus or selenium supplement if your area is deficient. I give copper bolus every 3-4 months and replamin gel weekly.

3.) Do you recommend getting polled goats?

Personal preference. Two of my three does are polled and the other was disbudded as a baby. The bucklings I bought had also been disbudded by the breeder. Some people recommend not mixing horned and polled goats as the horned ones may bully the hornless. Others say it doesn't matter. It may come down to personality of the individual goats.

This applies to Nigerians, not the meat goats, but the ADGA requires goats to be polled or disbudded so if you are interested in showing or want to sell dairy goats to 4H'ers or people interested in show or performance, you don't have a choice but to have disbudded or polled goats.

4.) How often do you deworm your goats if you do?
Never deworm routinely because the parasites are growing resistance to dewormers. Only deworm after a positive fecal so you know what kind of worms to treat. Learn to check the FAMACHA score to know if your goats are anemic (low blood count due to worm load).

6.) Do herbal dewormers for goats tend to work? What do you use?
It varies. it depends on the kind of worm you have (see above). I have used Valbazen and cydectin for barberpole worm, and Corid and sulfamed for Coccidia (not a worm, but a concern for baby goats in particular). You can get a follow up fecal 12 days or so after treatment to make sure that your dewormer is effective.

7.) Where did you get your goats? I am planning on asking a few of my neighbors for recommendations, but I am taking lots of opinions.

I searched for breeders on google and local FB pages. I found my bucklings by looking at the pedigrees of my doelings and then searching for the breeders' websites. You might want to find a breeder who tests for Johnnes, CAE, and CL and has negative results.

9.) Do you give any special shots? (please include how they are given, otherwise, I would expect they are intermuscular shots given at the shoulder).
Many shots you give are subcutaneous (SQ) into the skin/fat layer. The only one I have routinely given is the CDT vaccine. I also have b-complex for anemia but haven't had to give it yet. Both of those are SQ.

 

[docdubz]

I know lots of people on BYC own goats! And my family and I are looking into goats this year. Obviously, I want to be prepared before we get them. So far, we are looking into Nigerian Dwarfs and Boer goats. My dad being the one that wants a few meat goats. I am just asking about Nigerian Dwarfs though. Below are a few of my questions. So, first of all, I want to say that we are looking into getting breeding goats, so we want good genetics and a buck. We have stalls to keep them in, so their housing is under control. Feel free to not answer ALL the questions below, as I have lots.

1.) Do you keep a goat spread sheet to keep count on who needs to be bred and their due dates and such?
2.) I know that ND goats tend to get leg issues. So do you have recommended supplements? I know copper is one goats may be deficient in.
3.) Do you recommend getting polled goats?
4.) How often do you deworm your goats if you do?
5.) What are your favorite goat treats?
6.) Do herbal dewormers for goats tend to work? What do you use?
7.) Where did you get your goats? I am planning on asking a few of my neighbors for recommendations, but I am taking lots of opinions.
8.) How many times do you breed a year? How long can you milk a goat after it gives birth/after the babies are fully weaned?
9.) Do you give any special shots? (please include how they are given, otherwise, I would expect they are intermuscular shots given at the shoulder).
10.) This is my current checklist. Any other recommendations?
- Alfalfa (Making up for 90-95% of their diet)
- Mineral blend and baking soda.
- Hoove clipper
- Brush
- Shaver
- Dewormer (need recommendations on what to get, but I can get safeguard and Valbazen.
- A nice bag of shavings
- Birthing supplies. (we will get these later, but planning to get a lot of stuff.)


I have heard you all own ND goats? @CapricornFarm @Everose @JustBabyMargo @Little Baby Bean Please feel free to tag any one else who may help.

I raise spanish (possibly purebred but I havent done genetics) and boer goats. I like both breeds but I like the spanish more. I keep them penned up in a half acre paddock and but let them have free run of my property during the growing season. Ive only had them escape twice and it was only because there was a hole in the fence that I didnt know about and they came running back home as soon as I called for them.

Boer bucks can be sweet, Ive had only the most minimal problem with aggression and it was entirely my fault (forgot about their morning feeding so when I came with food my buck was pushy). But, boer bucks are absolute slobs when they are in rut, much more so than my spanish bucks.

As far as breeding goes, I leave that up to God. Does will not comply with a buck in rut if they arent ready to breed. Mine kidded in may and just kidded again this past month, pregnancy lasts 5 months and unless you are forcing them to breed, either manually or due to small enclosure, a doe is not going to let herself be bred until shes healed from the previous kidding

I would recommend keeping their horns if you get a breed that grows them. A well treated goat that doesnt have obvious behavior issues (which means time for the freezer) wont hit you with them. They simply wont, they are very mindful of where their horns are going. The only problem with horns is if they get stuck in a fence, which after the first couple times that happens you will figure out how to free them easily without damaging the fence and they will learn that they dont like being trapped for hours until you notice they need help.

As far as feed goes. Alfalfa gets expensive quick. Especially if you dont have a local source. $25 per bale from tractor supply is outrageous and will hurt your bank account fast. Look into sudan hay (not sudan grass, there is a difference and sudan grass has the same toxicity problems that johnson grass has). It doesnt have the same amount of protein as alfalfa but its nutritious for them and they tend to love it.

Treats? Some people say ginger cookies or other stuff like that. Mine havent taken any "human treat" that Ive offered. Some of them love banana peels. But what all of them love as a treat is giant ragweed or fresh oak leaves.

 

[TwoShepherds]

I just realized you asked about herbal dewormers. I didn't read the question carefully enough. I am currently trying the Land of Havilah parasite mix as a preventative.

I personally wouldn't use herbal if I actually had an outbreak....but it would be nice if the herbal treatments reduced the need to use chemical dewormers.

I've used the herbal treatment for a couple months and all eyelids look nice and pink. But it is winter...we shall see how it works in our hot humid spring/summer/fall. It's a pain drenching everyone weekly, and they hate it, so if fecals throughout the spring/summer don't look really good, I'll probably discontinue it.

Frequently rotating your pastures is a good technique to limit parasite loads as well.

 

[cherrynberry]

I raise spanish (possibly purebred but I havent done genetics) and boer goats. I like both breeds but I like the spanish more. I keep them penned up in a half acre paddock and but let them have free run of my property during the growing season. Ive only had them escape twice and it was only because there was a hole in the fence that I didnt know about and they came running back home as soon as I called for them.

Boer bucks can be sweet, Ive had only the most minimal problem with aggression and it was entirely my fault (forgot about their morning feeding so when I came with food my buck was pushy). But, boer bucks are absolute slobs when they are in rut, much more so than my spanish bucks.

As far as breeding goes, I leave that up to God. Does will not comply with a buck in rut if they arent ready to breed. Mine kidded in may and just kidded again this past month, pregnancy lasts 5 months and unless you are forcing them to breed, either manually or due to small enclosure, a doe is not going to let herself be bred until shes healed from the previous kidding

I would recommend keeping their horns if you get a breed that grows them. A well treated goat that doesnt have obvious behavior issues (which means time for the freezer) wont hit you with them. They simply wont, they are very mindful of where their horns are going. The only problem with horns is if they get stuck in a fence, which after the first couple times that happens you will figure out how to free them easily without damaging the fence and they will learn that they dont like being trapped for hours until you notice they need help.

As far as feed goes. Alfalfa gets expensive quick. Especially if you dont have a local source. $25 per bale from tractor supply is outrageous and will hurt your bank account fast. Look into sudan hay (not sudan grass, there is a difference and sudan grass has the same toxicity problems that johnson grass has). It doesnt have the same amount of protein as alfalfa but its nutritious for them and they tend to love it.

Treats? Some people say ginger cookies or other stuff like that. Mine havent taken any "human treat" that Ive offered. Some of them love banana peels. But what all of them love as a treat is giant ragweed or fresh oak leaves.

Nigerian Dwarfs are the breed I keep. For Boer goats, their horns grow back, which is good. HOWEVER, I plan to show goats and we have county fair rules. They have to be disbudded. I plan to do showing and breed class.

As for the hay, its a lot cheaper where I live. I buy from a local feed store and a bale costs $14.13, which is after the very-legendary CA tax . I keep a record of everything, so I hope to be able to see the costs of goats, and if we can balance it out.

They do LOVE oak leaves, we have a ton here.

 

[cherrynberry]

I just realized you asked about herbal dewormers. I didn't read the question carefully enough. I am currently trying the Land of Havilah parasite mix as a preventative.

I personally wouldn't use herbal if I actually had an outbreak....but it would be nice if the herbal treatments reduced the need to use chemical dewormers.

I've used the herbal treatment for a couple months and all eyelids look nice and pink. But it is winter...we shall see how it works in our hot humid spring/summer/fall. It's a pain drenching everyone weekly, and they hate it, so if fecals throughout the spring/summer don't look really good, I'll probably discontinue it.

Frequently rotating your pastures is a good technique to limit parasite loads as well.

I plan to not let them on pasture much. I have a fully enclosed area for them, but also fenced in pasture. We don't have oleandors here, LUCKILY! But we do have various mushrooms and whatnot. I would like to keep their worm load as low as possible.

Thank you! I do have the cattle/goat wormer, Valbazen, and can easily get safeguard.

 

[alwaystj9]

This company, meadow mist labs, does fecal surveys on goats. It's simple and cheap and fairly quick. Taking fecal samples will allow you to know which worms you are fighting so you can pick the appropriate chemical (or natural) treatment. A follow up fecal will tell you if your treatment was effective.
Famacha scoring is a system used worldwide for measuring parasite loads in goats and sheep. It tells "how bad" but not "what kind of parasite".

My goats love bits of bread, Fritos and oak leaves for treats. I have started putting squirts of Replamin paste on Fritos Scoops chips instead of poking the tube down their mouth and that is working well, too.

 

[cherrynberry]

Update! They are doing very well! Their setup changed a little. They are shorter than I imagined, so I just have the feeder on the ground. But since they may try tipping it, theres a little brick there to keep it in place.

 

[cherrynberry]

Gave them their first hoove trimming yesterday. Luckily I didn't cut too deep.

I also attended my first goat birth yesterday, and I have some pictures to share! Their mama was pretty protective and I got head butted when I was cleaning the kids off. Which is a good thing I think.

She had triplets!

ETA: Just went to check on the goats this morning. I am pretty sure Chestnut went into heat! She is flagging, has mucous, is much louder, and is trying to mount Nutmeg (poor Nutmeg!). Not sure if the mounting part is normal, but the other signs seem to match up.