I'm bored, can't stand it, new "bator"update with pictures.

redneck

Songster
14 Years
May 25, 2007
191
3
224
Lynchburg,Tn.
Last fall I gave my worm box incubator to a friend. I scrounged the parts to build another one.
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First I needed to cut a hole for the light socket. I cut it just a little smaller than the outside diameter of the socket. I wanted a tight fit.
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Now for the thermostat. I wanted to mount it at the same level as the eggs. So I Placed it in a receptacle box. This way all the wires would be covered. I placed a cover over the top to have a sealed unit. The wafer in the thermostat is visible and exposed to the air.
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I drilled two holes in the cooler to mount the box. Here is the bolts already tightened up
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next I drilled a hole to adjust the temperature from the outside. This way I don't have to open the "bator" up each time.
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I have the placement of the light socket and thermostat, now I need to install the fan. I used two nails to find the proper placement of the holes for the mounting bolts. I wanted the fan to be about one inch from the wall to have good air circulation. Also I wanted the fan to be just above the eggs.
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I ran the fan wires through the receptacle box and through a hole I drilled to the outside.
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Thermostat, fan, and light are mounted. Miss Prissy has some good pictures on how to wire everything up.
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What isn't showing is the computer power cord I cut and spliced into the wire coming from the socket and thermostat.
I also need to get a 12 power supply to finish the fan off.
I cut a hole in the lid for the plexiglass cover and used four self tapping screws to attach the plexiglass to the lid.
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Here is a view of everything put together. Total cost $0.00.
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Very cool.

Im far from an electrician. Id like to see a step-by-step outline of the thermostat and fan installation. I'd like to try it myself. Without the fear of blowing anything into pieces.

Great job.
Now...Hatch something!
 
You should cut a hole in the side as well, that way when the eggs hatch you can see from 2 angles. Good job, I wouldn't be able to do that.
 
Very good work. Can I add a few things, by asking some questions?
I've made more than few bators in my time and I AM an electrician. You did fine there.
There are other considerations, too.

What will you do for humidity control?
More important than most realize, it needs to be monitored and adjusted as needed.

How will you regulate oxygen exchange?
Embryo's in the egg "breathe" - respiration occurs. This means they need air. You need controllable vents.

Have you ever heard of thermal buffering?
Temperatures fluctuate, sometimes wildly, in these "home made hens." Place a few 20 oz soft drink bottles filled with water to help mitigate this.

What is your plan for turning the eggs?
They need to be moved and rolled at least twice per day.

Temperature is critical - 100 degrees F, give or take.
What will you be using to monitor these temps?
If you havent heard of a water weasel, find out how to use one before you set eggs in the chamber

Lastly, allow me to make a suggestion. Run the thing for a WEEK before you get any eggs even near it. You've done good - dont stop now.
 
Well, Well Well, If it isn't our favorite David. How the heck have you been David you have been missed. Your name came up just last week on BYC,YUKU.

Wow, Redneck you have really done a great job on your new incubator. I know you have the vent holes thought out already.
David has some wonderful knowledge about making incubators too. Good luck with you new unit. I bet it works just great.
 
I still have to buy a thermometer and humidity sensor. I can't put the holes in the sides until I bring my rotary tool home from work. I will place a water container inside for humidity. I can adjust the temp from the outside. This is my 5th one that I have built so far. I usually don't have temperature swings. I can usually get them to hold at 99.5 for a forced air incubator. I am putting a small turner for the eggs. If it works I will use it, if not I will use the old egg carton. It will be around two weeks before I will use it.
 
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Here is a simple diagram that I drew up. I used yellow and red because they would show up. The yellow wire is the white in the
cord, the red one would be the black one. All you need to do is to break the circuit with the thermostat. You would do that by cutting and tying in the white wire to the thermostat. The black wire would go directly from the light socket to the power cord.
 
Well, Well Well, If it isn't our favorite David. How the heck have you been David you have been missed. Your name came up just last week on BYC,YUKU.
Jaynie hello!
I was just popping in a bit. Glad to know youre here and keeping things in order.
Whats a YUKU?
 

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