Integrating young pullets with mature hens - what's the best age?

[dunnmom]

Our integration started last night around sunset. My hubs had to poke a few chickens at first, but there's been no feather picking or bloodshed yet. We decided against putting up barriers in the run, but we made a safe corner for the smaller ones. They have separate food and water, too. So far, they are staying in their own corners for the most part. I gave everyone some corn tortillas to pick apart this morning, but the younger ones don't seem too interested in treats. They were terrified last night, but seem a little less so today after sleeping over. I'm proud of the bigger chickens for not trying to maim the little ones, and proud of the little ones for having the sense to steer clear of the big girls. I'm going to keep my eye on them, but let them sort out pecking order within reason, of course. Hubs felt that the quicker we get it over with, the better. I'm only okay with a quickie method because my older pullets have never really been the aggressive sort.

 

[Chickle2014]

Good luck! My three 2 1/2 year old Orpingtons have always been so gentle until we integrated three 3 month old mixed breed pullets and they have become monsters! They will hardly ever let the 3 pullets come out of the coop during the day, and pin 2 of them down and peck them at night! I have to go move those 2 pullets off the top roost to the lower roost then I leave them alone. It's been very traumatic for me to say the least! Hope yours continues o go well. How old are your young ones?

 

[dunnmom]

8 or 9 weeks. The bigger ones are about 16 weeks. The big ones aren't as fast as the smaller ones, so it helps. The big ones chase the little ones back into their corner, but they haven't pecked at them much yet. The little ones seem really annoyed today more than scared, so that's progress.

 

[Chickle2014]

I would think that would help, that there is not much age difference. We are trying to figure out a way to put another door in the coop, not sure it is feasible. I wish you continued good luck!

 

[unbaked pegga]

I really dont exactly how old she is. Not over 8 or 9 weeks I wouldthink.. That is how long ago I ordered her. Her feathers on her flanks have not come in. She is bald there

 

[josy]

I have wire mesh chairs and they stay pretty clean. Don't have to clean them very often. Not as comfortable but it works. I also wear a long apron when want to sit and relax as several of my ladies like to get a pet. There is something so relaxing about sitting with them, always puts me in a good mood.
About integrating, I just bought 6 11 week old pullets to add to my flock of 14. I put them in a large cage in the run and watched. All my originals were curious but didn't try to peck so after awhile I opened the cage door and you would have thought they were raised together. Occasionally one would give chase and a little peck but nothing too serious. I was quite surprised it went so well. I have two roosters in there as well and they hardly seemed to notice the new additions. I have a large run and lots of places for them to escape if needed.

 

[QueenMisha]

I really dont exactly how old she is. Not over 8 or 9 weeks I wouldthink.. That is how long ago I ordered her. Her feathers on her flanks have not come in. She is bald there

8 or 9 weeks? If the bird is that young, then he is definitely, 100%, unequivocally a cockerel.

 

[WallaceFarms]

I have three, 8-week old pullets and a small flock of three mature hens.  They have been living outside in a coop & run separate from the older hens, but still right next to the hens' coop & run so they can get used to each other.  They've been out like this for a few weeks now.

The older hens will sometimes try and peck the youngsters through the chicken wire, but that's it.  My question is - at around what age should I allow the young pullets to begin free-ranging with the older hens?  I would like to eventually have them all in the same coop and run, but I want the babies to be big enough to defend themselves from the big hens if necessary.  I'd like to have them begin free-ranging together to begin with so that they can get used to each other and establish a pecking order, but don't want the babies to get too hurt.

Thanks!

I say 10 weeks is a good age to begin free ranging them together. Earlier this year we had a similar situation. 5 hens that were a year old and 5 new pullets. My advice is that when you do begin free ranging them together, keep doors to both big girl and baby coops and run areas closed. We had a RIR baby explore her way into the big girl's run area and 2 big girls noticed and came in and beat her up pretty good. Scratched her entire scalp off...so have water available for them outside of the coop/run areas and keep doors closed to prevent any territorial fights

 

[dunnmom]

Integration is going okay still. At least no one's been really hurt yet. The big girls are still trying to intimidate the little ones and keep them from roaming freely in the run, but I expect that will go on for at least a week. I'm interfering enough to keep the chicks fed, watered, and cool. Also to check them periodically for injuries. That's all, though.

 

[Beekissed]

What is CO and what do you dust them with? I have heard of dusting with DE and I have that but have never actually dusted a chicken, I just mixed it into their dust baths.

How do you build a strong immune system in your flock?

CO is Castor Oil and I use it on legs and feet to treat or prevent scale mite. I dust with pyrethrin powder, which you can order online....you'll not find it too often in many garden centers, though you can find permethrin powder and many old timers use that as well.

Building strong immune systems starts before two cells divide in that egg. The parent birds need to be hardy, healthy and strong, with the most naturally nutritious feed they can ingest, access to clean soils and adequate forage.

Then that chick needs to be on the ground in the coop immediately after hatch, just as soon as it's dry and can walk adequately, that chick needs to be exposed to the germs of the flock, of the soils and the environment in which they will be living. Any weak chicks need to be killed immediately, not held over to "give them a chance", babied around and given vitamins or meds to "help" them survive, etc. In the wild they would have none of these and they would not survive, thus insuring strong birds in that line. Better even if hatched under a broody mama, where they will be exposed to the proper germs and eliminated if they are weak.

No vaccines, no meds, no overfeeding, plenty of exercise, sunshine, huge ventilation, clean soils, natural diet while growing. Cull all birds that do not thrive on this life, who do not lay well on this life, are too old to lay, have never shown hardy vigor, poor social skills(flock picks on them...there's always a reason, cull the bird), poor temperament, constantly broody, fail to regrow feathers quickly nor look bright eyed and healthy. Acting sick? Give it a day or so to see if it will recover...do not isolate it from the flock and baby it around. If it doesn't recover in a day or so, cull it. Open it up and explore the reason, learn about the birds as you go along.

No excess cleaning and disinfecting of the coop, the feeders, the waterers, etc. Just regular cleaning on an as needed basis...there is no such thing as sterile or germ free when dealing with chickens and it's silly to even think it. They walk in their own feces every day. A swish to remove extra dirt, rinse and clean water to refresh is good enough for chickens.....they love to drink out of the muddiest, nastiest water out there even with pristine water right next to it. Maybe that nasty water helps them form immunity, who knows?

A good, cultured and composting deep litter on the coop floor and in any runs or spare pens. A varied diet of good foods found out on range, any veggies and fruits available from the garden, any meat scraps, snakes, lizards, etc. they can pick up along the way. Fermenting the feed helps but is not a cure all or a complete answer to good health, nor is DE, ACV, high pro feeds or calcium supplements.

Choose breeds that are known for natural hardiness, that do well out on range and will forage well for a natural diet...birds that haunt the feeder all the time can be culled, as they are getting no exercise and are eating bagged feed most of the time. It's the equivalent of a couch potato who eats processed foods all the time...are they going to have a good immune system and be as healthy as the rest? Not likely. If Suzy can make an egg each day on mostly foraged and natural foods and Stella can only make an egg each day if she eats lots of processed feed, guess which one gets to stick around?

No heating the coop in the winter....good, fresh air in the coop to move stale air and germs up and out of the coop. Any bird that needs heating in the winter, you can cull...they aren't hardy enough to breed or keep in the flock. Any bird that does poorly in extreme cold and in extreme heat, you can cull....they aren't strong enough to pass along genetics.

Now...do that season after season and you will have a flock that can withstand anything that comes along. I can't stress enough the power of the yearly or even bi-annual cull to insure you have the strongest birds in the coop. I can't stress enough the importance of low stocking rates on your soil, of good airflow in the coop, of exercise and natural foods and of maintaining only the strongest genetics.

Yeah...it takes work and commitment, but the end product is worry free.