My Hoop Coop

[Ponypoor]

There is ventilation above their heads. The ventilation from the bottom is intended to create a draw. It pulls cooler air from the ground and pushes air upward and out the top. Like a chimney. It can also allow a cross breeze which is important for my ducks in the summer.

You may think I'm totally clueless but I have a degree in architecture. I know how important ventilation is to a structure AND my birds. This isn't my first, second, or even third coop... I've built a lot of coops although this is my first with a cattle panel.

I really love that design, simple yet really practical!

We don’t have those panels here, but I would like to use metal pipe bent to an arch to accommodate some sort of flexible yet solid material for a roof - I think metal roofing in these arched pipes would be too heavy. But some sort of PVC panels maybe??

My run is 16’ wide one side is at 6’ high, and the other side is 5’ high, I thought maybe running 2x8x18 planks for roof joists but the cost of that would be extremely high. My run is about 100’! So on even 4’ centres with purlins every 2’ it would be costly!

Of course using that sort of roof I could get away with steel roofing .

Thoughts??

 

[McChooky]

There is ventilation above their heads. The ventilation from the bottom is intended to create a draw. It pulls cooler air from the ground and pushes air upward and out the top. Like a chimney. It can also allow a cross breeze which is important for my ducks in the summer.

You may think I'm totally clueless but I have a degree in architecture. I know how important ventilation is to a structure AND my birds. This isn't my first, second, or even third coop... I've built a lot of coops although this is my first with a cattle panel.

I don't need a degree to know they get miserably hot because I have one the same size.

 

[Ponypoor]

I don't need a degree to know they get miserably hot because I have one the same size.

Maybe instead of a reply that sounds insulting (even to.me!), you may wish a different approach.

I have found that there are hundreds of different ways of keeping animals - and they thrive - surprisingly enough I have found the I am not the only amazing animal husbandry person out there And it does sound like TJAnonimous has a goodly amt of skill, knowledge, and common sense

Personally I would love to see your coop, as I have also learnt that whilst I have splendidly awesome ideas for my Hen House and run, others have equally great ideas!

I would love to see your setup, how your roosts are setup, nesting boxes, feeders, etc…

 

[Ponypoor]

My DH and I built a hoop coop last weekend. Sharing pictures from the build for those who might want to do something similar..

Specifications and requirements -

Inside Sq footage - 6 ft x 8 ft
Poop boards
Adjustable ventilation
Automatic chicken door

Here's final product (inside and front) :

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I started this project by painting and/or watersealing all the wood FIRST. That took me a couple of days.

Next, I laid out the bottom frame in the general area. I used 2x6x8s for the bottom frame. I doubled up the 2x6s along the front and back which will support the end cap walls. Because I wanted my inner dimensions to be 6 ft x 8 ft, this meant I didn't need to cut any of boards and I could utilize the extra space on the front and back end caps to create an overhang.
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Next we laid down our cattle panels side by side. Cattle panels are 16 ft x 50 in. Which means they will have a 4" overlap in the center if you want to attach them to an 8 ft long board. To make this easier, we used zip ties to hold the overlapping pieces together and give both panels some stability so you can handle it as one piece instead of 2 separate pieces. Once it was zip-tied, we used conduit straps to attach the cattle panels to one length of the 2x6x8 side wall. Once this is attached along one side, it will be very easy to push the cattle panels up in the center and adhere the remaining side with conduit straps.
Conduit strap -
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We used this chart to estimate a center height for our hoop coop. You'll need this height for planning out your end cap walls.
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Beginning to build the front end back end cap walls. We built in "horizontal" supports into our wall frame to provide a place to nail in and secure the poop boards.
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Once the poop boards were installed, we started to cover the frame. We used 4x8 (painted) particle board sheets. To help line up the bottom correctly, we sandwiched (2) 2x4x8s together and laid at the end edges between the 2x6 walls (the sides that the cattle panels are attached to). We used these 2x4s to support the weight of the 4x8 sheet while it is held along the length of the end cap. This allows you to use a marker and trace where the cattle panel touches the 4x8 sheet. This traces helps you identify the arc you need to cut in the panel to make it fit perfectly. After your sheet is cut, simply push the 2x4 supports against the end cap wall and use it to support your sheet while you trace out any openings such as the door, window, etc. We followed this process for the front and back end cap walls.
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Next we wrapped the cattle panels with hardware cloth. We used zip ties (again) to generally secure the hardcloth in place. Next week used chicken wire as an apron around the bottom along the ground to discourage predators from digging. We slipped the apron wire underneath the hardware cloth and then secured BOTH together with screws and washers. Along the end cap sides, we used cut the hardware cloth, folded it over to the outside frame and secured it with staples.
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Afterwards, we pulled a heavy duty tarp over the hoop coop. Since it was bigger than we needed, we carefully folded the excess underneath so it wouldn't stick out. On the west side where rain & wind predominantly approach, we secured the tarp to the frame with washers & screws through the metal grommets on the tarp.
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We used polyester rope at 18" intervals over the top of the hoop to secure the tarp in place. One the 2nd side, we slightly drilled in the screws & washers but left enough room to allow us to loop the rope and tighten it down before then tightening down the screws & washers the rest of the way. Here's the result.
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We had severe storms just a few days later. The tarp never budged and the coop stayed warm & dry. In the summer when we get triple digits and high humidity, I can easily roll up one or both sides of the tarp to allow a breeze/cross-breeze. This capability was one of the most important reasons why I went with this type of design.

Oh I was wondering with the framing why it has that space on the left handside in that one pic! It’s the hatch for the chickies (duh!)

How are your nest boxes setup? My ladies fight like crazy over 1 nestbox meanwhile I have 6 boxes available!

 

[Beer can]

Awesome! I like it well done

 

[TJAnonymous]

Oh I was wondering with the framing why it has that space on the left handside in that one pic! It’s the hatch for the chickies (duh!)

How are your nest boxes setup? My ladies fight like crazy over 1 nestbox meanwhile I have 6 boxes available!

I have 3+ other coops that are meant for my chickens. Those coops have actual built-in nesting boxes. This Hoop Coop was built for my ducks. However I have a couple of hens who seem to be very attached to my ducks and insist on sleeping with them. I built the poop board & roost on one side to accommodate them but they typically sleep in the straw on the floor with the ducks. I didn't really want to encourage other chickens to roost in there so I intentionally left roost space limited. I have 2 ground level nesting boxes made from empty kitty litter buckets for these hens and the others who wander inside. All of my coops have automatic doors. The duck coop (this one) is the one one that does not automatically close at night. We manually close each night when we make our rounds to ensure everything is secure. Sometimes our ducks have put themselves to bed inside the coop and sometimes not in which case we herd them toward the door as motivation and then lockdown.

 

[TJAnonymous]

I am mildly amused at the people who have never been on my property or even in my climate and yet insist on telling me that my design is wrong and they know better. Do you realize how arrogant and condescending you come across? I'm always open to suggestions and comments. Nor do I think that, just because I have an education and experience in something, does it make me an expert. But I don't personally give two $#*ts if you think your opinion is right or better in this case because I've actually been inside the coop during all types of weather and temperatures from the low 20s and drizzling sleet/snow to the mid 70s with intense sun. I also know that half our summers are often triple digits with 80+% humidity. All of this was kept in mind and this isn't my first rodeo. You can be as rude, condescending, and arrogant as it pleases you... It just shows your character to anyone who reads it. For those others who share their opinions without being offensive, I appreciate your feedback and willingness to listen to my reasoning and not assume anyone other than you is a complete nitwit. Cheers!

 

[Ponypoor]

I have 3+ other coops that are meant for my chickens. Those coops have actual built-in nesting boxes. This Hoop Coop was built for my ducks. However I have a couple of hens who seem to be very attached to my ducks and insist on sleeping with them. I built the poop board & roost on one side to accommodate them but they typically sleep in the straw on the floor with the ducks. I didn't really want to encourage other chickens to roost in there so I intentionally left roost space limited. I have 2 ground level nesting boxes made from empty kitty litter buckets for these hens and the others who wander inside. All of my coops have automatic doors. The duck coop (this one) is the one one that does not automatically close at night. We manually close each night when we make our rounds to ensure everything is secure. Sometimes our ducks have put themselves to bed inside the coop and sometimes not in which case we herd them toward the door as motivation and then lockdown.

Someone here calls them water chickens

My niece has Indian Runners, they are hilarious! Her chickens and ducks live together and are so herd bound that I think the ducks are are more chicken than duck!!

I’d love to see how you set your nest boxes in your other coops.

 

[TJAnonymous]

Someone here calls them water chickens

My niece has Indian Runners, they are hilarious! Her chickens and ducks live together and are so herd bound that I think the ducks are are more chicken than duck!!

I’d love to see how you set your nest boxes in your other coops.

I can send you some pictures. I have different types of nesting "areas" since chickens are rather fickle when it comes to where they lay.

Main coop - I have 10 nesting boxes (double stacked) built in the wall underneath my poop boards/roost in my main coop. I also have a couple of "dark corners" in the main coop which aren't formal nesting boxes but which I've "prepped" to entice them as alternatives.

Goat House - we adopted 2 goats and a dozen chickens from the previous homeowner when we bought our house. They were housed together in an 8 x 10 shed. Chickens had a ladder roost and 4 metal nesting boxes attached to the wall. I've since removed the ladder roost altogether and no chickens are allowed to roost in there overnight. However I left the metal nesting boxes which they use as an alternative to the main coop.

Other places - I have nesting areas set up in several other places. There's an old child's playhouse that I've converted for nesting. This is actually what my ducks used last spring to brood their clutch. I've got old kitty litter buckets, doghouses, or covered tubs with a door cut into them stashed in quiet, protected areas.

And yet, despite all these options, I'll still find random eggs stashed among the hay bales in the barn or in the horses' hay mangers.

 

[Raptor Chicken]

I am mildly amused at the people who have never been on my property or even in my climate and yet insist on telling me that my design is wrong and they know better. Do you realize how arrogant and condescending you come across? I'm always open to suggestions and comments. Nor do I think that, just because I have an education and experience in something, does it make me an expert. But I don't personally give two $#*ts if you think your opinion is right or better in this case because I've actually been inside the coop during all types of weather and temperatures from the low 20s and drizzling sleet/snow to the mid 70s with intense sun. I also know that half our summers are often triple digits with 80+% humidity. All of this was kept in mind and this isn't my first rodeo. You can be as rude, condescending, and arrogant as it pleases you... It just shows your character to anyone who reads it. For those others who share their opinions without being offensive, I appreciate your feedback and willingness to listen to my reasoning and not assume anyone other than you is a complete nitwit. Cheers!

Looks like a nerve was hit.

I was treated with the same scrutiny when I first signed up here regarding coops.

Its only right to call folks out on things wrong with other folks coop set up, and its certainly not personal.

We're all looking for the best for our birds and some of us are more aware of that then others.

Might want to check your shoulders because it seems like you might have some flakes on them.

Remember, you don't have to take the advice given, but you opened yourself up to criticizing when you started the thread. Certainly you didn't expect everyone to just automatically agree with everything you're doing just "because".


That being said, with the additional photos it does seem more promising as far as the ventilation goes.