Need help/advice for goose not eating and wobbly

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casportpony said:
Once properly hydrated I would give her Safeguard paste at 0.23ml per pound orally for five days, but I would only do this if I knew she was properly hydrated. The 60ml syringe is what I use and I would start by giving her 10ml per pound of gatorade or pedialyte now, then again in 60-90 minutes and one more time in a few hours as long as her crop was clearing.

-Kathy
Click to expand...

How do you suggest tube feeding K? When have to do anything with my geese or ducks I get them from behind and straddle them this keeps wings against their body so they don't interfere. But I've never had to tube feed any one.
 
Miss Lydia said:
How do you suggest tube feeding K? When have to do anything with my geese or ducks I get them from behind and straddle them this keeps wings against their body so they don't interfere. But I've never had to tube feed any one.
Click to expand...

That's my next question. I too can get behind her and keep her fairly steady. It's just trying to get a hold of her wiggly/squirmy long neck that I have trouble keeping straight and still. Then there's getting her bill (with teeth, lol) open where I see not to get anything into the windpipe. I'm also assuming that this is going to be a two person job. My hubby works and won't be home for another several hours. And before anyone asks I don't have anyone I can call and ask for assistance
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. Everyone I do know still works full-time.

BTW, Shortly after my last post she did come out and was drinking and preening in front of her water. Watched her drink at least 8 scoops of water (she likely drank more than that and I didn't see it). Now she's back in the confinement area. I'll run a heat lamp out there when hubby gets home. I have one I just don't know where he put it.
 
Note - most sick birds will be a little hypothermic (too cold) and mild to moderately dehydrated. IMO, this must be corrected before giving wormer and/or antibiotics. Also not that tubing a bird can be very stressful, sometimes enough so that it's enough to send the bird over the edge. Not trying to scare anyone, just trying to be honest.

If the goose was mine I would put it in a warm room (80-85 degrees is ideal). I would get a weight on it and once warm, I would give it warmed fluids stated in post #30. There is a method to my madness, and this what I have found works best.

-Kathy
 
Defiantly a 2 person job maybe have husband do the behind holding and you do the tubing or who ever feels more confident and gloves to hold open the bill When Kathy started me on worming my chickens by using the syringe down the throat I didn't think I could do it until the time came then I felt better trying than my husband since he hadn't any hands on experience with them at all, So he held and I opened their mouths and put in the syringe, I feel much more confident about it now after doing it 3X this year.I hope it all works out and she comes through this.
 
casportpony said:
Note - most sick birds will be a little hypothermic (too cold) and mild to moderately dehydrated. IMO, this must be corrected before giving wormer and/or antibiotics. Also not that tubing a bird can be very stressful, sometimes enough so that it's enough to send the bird over the edge. Not trying to scare anyone, just trying to be honest.

If the goose was mine I would put it in a warm room (80-85 degrees is ideal). I would get a weight on it and once warm, I would give it warmed fluids stated in post #30. There is a method to my madness, and this what I have found works best.

-Kathy
Click to expand...

I trust you to give me good advise and am reading intently
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. Taking notes for quick reference for future in case these issues arise again. I went out there and gently did a test on the best way to hold her. I put her body (backside) against me and ever so gently held her head against my shoulder. She readily opened her bill. So if I can get my hubby to do that I may be able to tube her or syringe the wormer since I can see best if I'm in front of her.

I'll see if I can find the heat lamp before hubby gets home. It can easily get to the ideal 80-85 degrees in the confinement area. It's what we did last spring when they were still babies. We hung the lamp on only one side of the area and it got so warm in that spot that they all had moved to the other side to cool off. That was with the lamp 3' off the floor. I can hang it as high as 6-1/2' if it gets too warm.
 
casportpony said:
What kind of tube do you have and how long is it?

-Kathy
Click to expand...

What I have is not ideal. I have a 60cc syringe with a small catheter tip inside a screw tip. The ID of the tubing I have will fit the catheter part and is held in place on it's OD pretty well by the screw tip part. The tubing, however, is the only thing I can find so I'm praying that it will suffice. It is 1/4" OD (.170" ID/.43cm) clear vinyl tubing (pvc). Anything larger they had at TSC was way to big. It's 10' long so I can cut off as much as I need. I've already rounded out one end very gently over mild heat so as not to damage any internal tissue.

I just made another warm watery porridge and put it into a hanging waterer. She took a couple drinks but that was all. Then she pooped right in front of me. This time it looked a lot different then the past 10 days. Almost an olive green mixed with white. Imagine greenish firm chicken poop with the white urates on top except that it's watery and all mixed together. Of course, based on the experience this past week and a half this could change a the drop of a hat. Maybe she is eating more than I think she is? She has been picking at the wheat seeds in the straw. Should I put out a bowl of wheat and see if she eats it? I actually have hard winter red, hard winter white, and soft winter. Or is this bad for her?
 
Do not cut any off... 10" is already pretty short. Green poop can be from not eating, bacterial infection, disease or all three.

-Kathy
 

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