post your chicken coop pictures here!

Not to jump da gun, but those supports are what would be used to keep posts from rotting in the ground. Pressure treated lumber will last in the ground longer than untreated, but still if above ground, it will last longer. Obviously if you are on a hillside, and stability is of concern, it is better to dig holes and sink posts into ground. On level ground it is less of a concern.

Called post support pier and cost about $6 at home center stores.
 
I was wondering if you could give me some advice on the footers that you used for your posts, DaveTheDamaja. What are they and why use them versus sinking the posts in the ground in concrete? I am building on a hill that has uneven ground, rocks, and roots, so something that sits on top of the ground would save me a lot of work!! I have never built a deck, shed, or anything large, so I apologize if this is a basic I should know.

Thanks for any advice,
Jenn

I was wondering if you could give me some advice on the footers that you used for your posts, DaveTheDamaja. What are they and why use them versus sinking the posts in the ground in concrete? I am building on a hill that has uneven ground, rocks, and roots, so something that sits on top of the ground would save me a lot of work!! I have never built a deck, shed, or anything large, so I apologize if this is a basic I should know.

Thanks for any advice,
Jenn
I'm with cavemanrich, I would not use those post supports on a slope the coop will not be stable
 
I'm with cavemanrich, I would not use those post supports on a slope the coop will not be stable
The slope is not that extreme and I can dig a few inches out to make the blocks level. Looking at the picture that DaveTheDamaja posted, his ground is not perfectly level either.

One reason to not do cement is that I do not think I can dig below the frost level for all posts in the construction. If I hit a big rock or root, then I can't put concrete lower. I thought you had to be all on-grade or all frost-proof with support posts. Can you mix and match?
 
We thought about composite shingles, then decided on a metal roof for our coop. Now, 3 months later we are glad we did.
We live in the middle of a National Forest. The Forest Service did a prescribed burn that got a bit out of hand. Our neighbors chicken coop roof caught fire from embers that blew our direction. They managed to put it out before anything happened. Large embers landed on our coop roof and slid right off.

Just a thought if you are in or near an area where prescribed burns are done routinely. Ours are every other year so the metal roof was definitely a good choice for us.
 
The slope is not that extreme and I can dig a few inches out to make the blocks level. Looking at the picture that DaveTheDamaja posted, his ground is not perfectly level either.

One reason to not do cement is that I do not think I can dig below the frost level for all posts in the construction. If I hit a big rock or root, then I can't put concrete lower. I thought you had to be all on-grade or all frost-proof with support posts. Can you mix and match?
I miss understood you, I thought you were building on a hillside, I do not see why couldn't use those blocks
 
I ask because the last pic I saw were youngish birds on the roost above the 'trays' filled with pdz.....
thought the roosts were a bit close to the walls for full grown birds...
.....and also wondered if the trays suspended by chains were working out or if their movement was an issue.

Yeah, I know all about PDZ, I use it too....and how much poop 11 birds can produce.
I have 20 birds right now and am sifting everyday instead of every other day.
The roosts are 13" away from the walls. Although from the distribution of their droppings they prefer facing the center of the coop, they don't seem to mind. Easter Eggers aren't that big anyway (they were almost fully grown in the pic you saw). And I've seen pictures here of chickens roosting in places ridiculously more cramped!
gig.gif


The original trays were suspended by chains, which I found was not a good idea because if the chickens tip the tray too far the zeolite can shift leaving one side empty or even spilling some of the zeolite. The new ones are held on with bolts. I found the chickens won't stand long on the edge of 3/8" plywood anyway so letting it rock was not necessary.




Before cleaning (5:17 PM)


1 pound of unprocessed fertilizer in a two pound coffee can. This is what doesn't end up in the bedding! Each and every day!!


Finished! (5:20PM)


The basket on the cupboard is for collecting the eggs.
 
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FightingBunny CaveManRich is correct. The concrete footers I used would not work well on a hill. Digging post holes and filling with concrete would provide more stability. For me, the idea behind using these was to prevent rot over time and more importantly to make the coop's position not so permanent. I figured if I didn't like this location I can move the coop to a different part of the yard later on. I also thought about if I move someday I'd like to take the coop with me. I've provided a link to Home Depot where I purchased his concrete feet.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/11-1-2-in-x-8-in-x-11-1-2-in-Concrete-Block-10550005/100350712
 
They're not poop boards per se, but poop trays (I'll try and add some photos later). I added side walls and filled them with granulated zeolite ("SweetPDZ") which not only absorbs moisture but also neutralizes ammonia. Five minutes with a kitty litter scoop and they're clean.
You'll be amazed at just how much poop 11 chickens can produce in a day!:eek:

As for my birds, the April flock started laying last October, at least one of the August batch has started laying. I know that Smokey is one of them because whenever I get close she immediately squats down. 

Ditto that! I know from experience that chickens can undo "chicken wire"


Great advice. Thank you. Another trip back to Home Depot. Sigh...
 
@DaveTheDamaja
 Thank you so much for taking the time to post the pictures of your windows.  I love your coop and I love the rounded posts of your run.  Makes it look more rustic and natural :thumbsup

The hardware cloth is very expensive but as others have said you might want to consider it especially for the lower portions.  Maybe you could just add some hardware cloth to the lower 2 feet or so of your run.  Not sure if you have racoons but they are notorious for reaching through chicken wire and ripping the heads off of chickens etc.  Happened to my cousins hens.  :sick

I like the metal corner bracing you used on the frames.  I might steal that idea too!  Thanks again!


My Pleasure! I think I will take your advice and purchase some hardware cloth.
 

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