Poultry Breeds of Spanish Ancestry

[Lacy Blues]

This will be for all owners, breeders and prospective owners/breeders of poultry of Spanish ancestry. We will be sharing information in all matters of keeping these birds; be it feeding, housing or breeding. Any matter that is of importance in keeping of these magnificent fowl is fair game.

This will be a network of sources for these birds as we need to find those who are interested and/or actively breeding to bring them all together into one group. It doesn't matter where in the world you live, we would love to have your participation.

All breeds are accepted, whether or not they are accepted by the APA/ABA. Large fowl and bantam. So join up and share pictures of your birds and set ups. Lets help each other out with information and inspiration.

Right now we have a list started of the Spanish fowl. Of the following, the ones in bold type are those which are accepted by the APA.

Andalusian,

Catalana or Catalana Del Prat/ Prat Leonada

Cara Blanca Castilian

Empordanesa

Euskal oiloa

Minorca

Penedesenca

Spanish game

White-Faced Black Spanish

Asturian Painted Hen

Castellana Negra

Extremaduran

Indio de León

Gallina Mallorquina

Gallina Menorquina

Murciana

Galiña de Mos

Pardo de León

Pitiüsa

Combatiente español

Utrerana

Valenciana de Chulilla

 

[ronott1]

I have always followed the rules too but it didn't seem to make any difference.

I'm not going to be stubborn about this and I will be monitoring them closely. If y'all will be here to help me, I would really appreciate it.

I am always up for helping with hatch issues!

 

[ronott1]

Well, I hope I didn't kill all my chicks off!

When I got up this morning and checks the temps in the hatcher, it was at 102. I remember last night, before going to bed, I checked it and it was 101. I turned it down (or so I thought). Sometimes I get confused as to which way to turn the darn thing and I'm afraid I may have turned it up instead!

I have no idea how long they were at that temperature. I candled them after taking them out so they could cool down and there was still movement in most of them but most of the veins don't look as good as they did last night. I'm so aggravated I could just scream!
It would probably be a really good idea for me to get a digital controller!

Last night I had checked weights and candled them to see how they were doing. Had one quitter at what I figure was day 12 or 13. On the average, the eggs are underweight by .08 oz. each. I hope that's not too much. I've been keeping the humidity around 40% in hopes to correct what I did to them those days without any humidity at all. When I first started weighing them on day four, they were down by .03 each. These numbers are from my calculations of a 13% loss over 21 days and we are on day 16 today.

102 will not kill them:

A review by H. Lundy of research carried out by a number of scientists over many years
identified five temperature zones each of which is characterized by its major affect on the
developing embryo. These zones are not clear cut. There is some overlapping and the time for
which the embryo is exposed and the age of the embryo blur the limits.
Lundy’s five incubation Temperature Zones:-

Zone of heat injury


Zone of hatching potential

Zone of disproportionate
development

Zone of suspended
development

Zone of cold injury

In common with most scientific work on incubation, this data assumes an incubator with a fan
(virtually no temperature differences within the incubator) and was based on chicken eggs.
These zones are further explained as follows:

Zone of heat injury (above 40.5°C/104.9°F)

At continuous temperatures above 40.5°C (104.9°F) no embryos would be expected to hatch.
However the effect of short periods of high temperature are not necessarily lethal. Embryos
up to 6 days are particularly susceptible, older embryos are more tolerant. For example,
embryos up to 5 days may well be killed by a few hours exposure to 41°C (105.8°F) but
approaching hatching time they may survive temperatures as high as 43.5°C (110°F) for
several hours.

Zone of hatching potential (35 - 40.5°C/104.9 - 84.5°F)

Within a range of 35 to 40.5°C (84.5 - 104.9°F) there is the possibility of eggs hatching. The
optimum (for hens) is 37.8 °C (100.4°F), above this temperature as well as a reduced hatch
there will be an increase in the number of crippled and deformed chicks. Above 40.5 °C
(104.9°F) no embryos will survive.

Continuous temperatures within this range but below optimum retard development and
increase mortalities. However it is again evident that early embryos are more susceptible to
continuous slightly low temperatures than older embryos. Indeed, from 16 days on it may be
beneficial to lower the incubation temperature by up to 2°C (3.6°F). I emphasis the word
‘continuous’ because the effects of short term reduction in temperature are different and are
discussed later.

Zone of disproportionate development (27 - 35°C/80.6 - 95°F)

Eggs kept above 27°C (80.6°F) will start to develop. However the development will be
disproportionate in the sense that some parts of the embryo will develop faster than others
and some organs may not develop at all. Below 35°C (95°F) no embryo is likely to survive to
hatch. Typically the heart is much enlarged and the head development more advanced than
the trunk and limbs.

The temperature at the lower end of this range is sometimes referred to as ‘Physiological
zero’ - the threshold temperature for embryonic development. Unfortunately different organs
appear to have different thresholds resulting in an unviable entity.
Zone of suspended development (-2°C - 27°C/28.4 - 80.6°F)
Below about 27°C (80°F) no embryonic development takes place. Prior to incubation, eggs
must be stored in this temperature range (preferably around 15°C/59°F).

Zone of cold injury ( -2°C/28.4°F)

Below this threshold ice crystals will start to form in the egg and permanently damage may be
done to internal structures. Eggs may lie for some considerable time in temperatures close to
freezing without suffering damage.

 

[hillfloweranch]

application fee for permit:
http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2013-title9-vol1/pdf/CFR-2013-title9-vol1-sec130-4.pdf

Daily user fee for quarantine:
http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-1995-05-26/pdf/95-12999.pdf

I think these are correct, but you can call them to check. Just thought I'd post if anyone wanted this info for possible import for breeding purposes.


Here is the website: table listing permit fees and "shipment on hold"

http://nvap.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/permits/ah_permits_userfees.shtml

 

[Lacy Blues]

Well, I think I can report a reasonably successful hatch. I have 11 chicks plus 3 that are still working on their shells, three dead and one more that I thought was dead. I opened the top of the egg to check why it died. It wasn't moving and when I touched it, it did move. The membrane was a little tiny bit dry but not so much it was being shrink wrapped. So, anyway, the egg was already opened, I wet the membrane and made the smallest hole where the tip of the beak is, wrapped the egg in a very wet paper towel and put it back in the hatcher in a position that I could watch it through the hatcher window to see how it's doing.

That's all the help I will provide - humidity. We'll see how it goes. I have 11/19 that went into lock down. Hopefully, I'll get 4 more chicks. That will be 15/19. Not bad. Somebody more math minded can figure out the percentage if they care.

 

[Lacy Blues]

I got their light raised tonight and the heating pad put in and then I went outside to close up. When I came back in, this is what was going on...



They adjusted their positions slightly by the time I got back with the camera but you can see one still has its head hanging over the side, one is all stretched out and they're all just loving that heat!

So, I turned off their light, turned on a nightlight (mostly so I could see) and then I stuffed them all underneath the pad. They're all zonked now!

 

[gjensen]

Yes, go for type first.

Let color is not hard to fix. I have done it a couple of times--Pita Pinta and Basque hen.

Dominate traits are easy to breed out. Recessive color faults can be a little more of a concern. It can re surface endlessly without test mating to insure it is bred out.

My Catalana project birds had a white legged breed as an outcross. I did not want to deal with yellow legs. Yellow legs could have haunted me endlessly without testing to see who the carriers were.

So that is how I decide what I will tolerate or not with these project birds. What kind of trouble will it be to get passed it. Often it is not as simple as culling for it.

 

[Hangtown Farms]

I will start out by saying thank you for opening this thread.
My name is Jason and I breed the following

My main focus are
White Empordanesa
Crele Penedesenca
I also am starting to work with Black Penedesenca

I maintain a facebook page
Penedesenca Breeders and Fan Club Page
and helped to make the
penedesencausa.com website

 

[Lacy Blues]

Thank you for starting this thread.
My name is Angela and I have ordered a few white faced black Spanish chicks from Urch this spring.

Hi Angela,

I haven't seen Urch's birds but from what I understand he breeds to the SOP on everything he has.

Bridgett Riddle in California has done really well at the shows with her WFBS. Now would be the time to get on her list if you want a second line for your flock.

 

[gjensen]

One of the tricks for all of these breeds is hatching in quantity. The best chance we will have at digging out something that turns it around for us.