Sick Ducklings?

Maybe call the State vet in that State and ask if that hatchery participates in NPIP testing and if part of that testing includes testing for mycoplasma.

Some hatcheries advertise NPIP/mycoplasma testing status on their websites.

-Kathy
 
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Kathy, my heart sank when I read your post. The one time I slacked on biosecurity... I had assumed that hatcheries require rigorous testing to ensure healthy birds since they produce them in massive numbers. I will call TSC in the morning and ask what hatchery they came from.

To be honest, I do believe my flock was exposed to MG at one point. I raised a polish hen from an NPIP breeder I trusted and the hen developed a sinus issue and had a runny, bubbling eye. After talking to the same breeder, it sounded like his flock had MG and he was breeding for resistance. He culls any bird that shows symptoms. This was my first lesson in biosecurity.
hmm.png


I didn't think mycoplasmas were common in waterfowl.
 
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I could take them to the vet, but it's hard to justify a minimum of an $80 bill for two hatchery ducklings. I have to think logically for a moment. Especially since they don't appear to be in immediate danger.

I made a few changes to the brooder. I changed the 100 watt bulb to a 250 watt bulb in case they were getting cold. I also removed the pine shavings and put down puppy pads in case it was dusty. Lastly I added a probiotic/vitamin/electrolyte supplement to their water. One has improved, but the other is still wheezing a bit and sneezing. I wanted to see how they responded to the brooder changes before giving them an antibiotic.
 
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Whoa! Do you think all TSC get their ducklings from same hatchery??? I always heard they get them from the closest one around. I have 2 right now that are about a month old. So far no problems. But no clue what mycoplasma is guess I need to look that up!
 
I could take them to the vet, but it's hard to justify a minimum of an $80 bill for two hatchery ducklings. They're not friendly and they won't be useful for breeding. I have to think logically for a moment. Especially since they don't appear to be in immediate danger.

I made a few changes to the brooder. I changed the 100 watt bulb to a 250 watt bulb in case they were getting cold. I also removed the pine shavings and put down puppy pads in case it was dusty. Lastly I added a probiotic/vitamin/electrolyte supplement to their water. One has improved, but the other is still wheezing a bit and sneezing. I wanted to see how they responded to the brooder changes before giving them an antibiotic.
Okay first off your already seeing improvement in some of the things you've done, and I know there is going to be some controversary but changing the light might help more than you know if you have gone from white to red or blue. saying I think having to be under white light can affect sleep and health, Like how would it be for us to have to sleep under a 100 watt light bulb, they need a red or blue to not affect sleep. It may take a few days before you noticed significant difference. Is that your sole purpose was to breed? and friendly can come but it takes so patience and time on your part. If they get over this they can still be a productive part of you flock if nothing else to eat the bugs around the house and eye candy for the yard. Of course in the end it's up to you. I guess I see worth even in hatchery stock.
 
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The 100 watt bulb was coated in black and produced a purple light. The 250 watt bulb is red. They were never under a white light.

All of my waterfowl are pets, I do not breed them. These ducklings definitely have worth. They're both girls and their names are Hope and Faith. I just can't justify another vet bill when they're not in immediate danger. An antibiotic will probably fix the respiratory problems. I had to bring one of my goslings to the vet last week to fix a crop issue. Bringing birds to the vet is expensive, so I try to fix problems myself first. I'm a college student majoring in Biology, so I have some background knowledge.
 
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The 100 watt bulb was coated in black and produced a purple light. The 250 watt bulb is red. They were never under a white light.

All of my waterfowl are pets, I do not breed them. These ducklings definitely have worth. They're both girls and their names are Hope and Faith. I just can't justify another vet bill when they're not in immediate danger. An antibiotic will probably fix the respiratory problems. I had to bring one of my goslings to the vet last week to fix a crop issue. Bringing birds to the vet is expensive, so I try to fix problems myself first. I'm a college student majoring in Biology, so I have some background knowledge.

The 100 watt bulb was coated in black and produced a purple light. The 250 watt bulb is red. They were never under a white light.

All of my waterfowl are pets, I do not breed them. These ducklings definitely have worth. They're both girls and their names are Hope and Faith. I just can't justify another vet bill when they're not in immediate danger. An antibiotic will probably fix the respiratory problems. I had to bring one of my goslings to the vet last week to fix a crop issue. Bringing birds to the vet is expensive, so I try to fix problems myself first. I'm a college student majoring in Biology, so I have some background knowledge.
Okay good I know I've read of some using bright white lights and I really think they do alot more harm than good. I am pulling for Hope and Faith and sounds like you know what your doing. I agree antibiotics should be last resort that's why I rec ACV in their drinking water but since your using the vit electrolyte solution maybe not use the ACV. Hopefully with the changes you've made they will really turn around now. please keep us updated. I dif understand about vet bills I try to do all care here with my flock.
 
It's probably true that TSC uses different hatcheries, which is why one should call their local TSC and get the name of that hatchery. Then call that hatchery and ask if the ducklings were hatched at their hatchery or somewhere else (I think some hatcheries don't hatch ducks, they buy them from someone else and "drop ship" them to you or TSC.

-Kathy
 
@cochins1088 , I think you"re doing things in the right order... rule out environmental, then decide to give antibiotics or not. Once that is ruled out, the antibiotic I would use it Baytril. You have 22.7mg tabs, so you could take 1/4 tab (5.76mg), add some amount of water or compounding syrup and dose by weight. If you have a small animal vet that you normally see, call them and ask if they'll sell you some compounding syrup The Baytril dose I would use is 10mg/kg (1mg per 100 grams) twice a day, which means you would have to weigh them on a kitchen scale and do a little math. Let me know if you need help with this.

Example: Crush 1/4 tab and to measuring container. Fill container to 10 ml mark. Now you have 10 ml of Baytril liquid that has 0.576mg Baytril per one ml. Make sense?

-Kathy
 
@cochins1088 , I think you"re doing things in the right order... rule out environmental, then decide to give antibiotics or not. Once that is ruled out, the antibiotic I would use it Baytril. You have 22.7mg tabs, so you could take 1/4 tab (5.76mg), add some amount of water or compounding syrup and dose by weight. If you have a small animal vet that you normally see, call them and ask if they'll sell you some compounding syrup The Baytril dose I would use is 10mg/kg (1mg per 100 grams) twice a day, which means you would have to weigh them on a kitchen scale and do a little math. Let me know if you need help with this.

Example: Crush 1/4 tab and to measuring container. Fill container to 10 ml mark. Now you have 10 ml of Baytril liquid that has 0.576mg Baytril per one ml. Make sense?

-Kathy
What would we do with out you K
 

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