The Natural Chicken Keeping thread - OTs welcome!

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Not sure I am at the level I would attempt it yet. Maybe after processing a few more times. But to tell the truth I have been letting DH do the actual processing. I have helped catch the roo and for a while I could complete the process right down to sorting organs. But the last 2 times we processed, I had to stay away from all things red. But I'm still good at cornering roosters, even with the ever expanding mid section.
 
I shoveled out the girls. For some reason they stayed in the coop all day. Maybe the foot & half of snow was the reason? Lol. Can't say I blame them since it would of been up to their beaks. Sophie & Edie ventured out after I shoveled them out. At least they were productive with their self imposed lock up. 3 eggs today, they demolished 2 bags of frozen kale in an hour. Guess they are missing their greens :)
 
Not sure I am at the level I would attempt it yet. Maybe after processing a few more times. But to tell the truth I have been letting DH do the actual processing. I have helped catch the roo and for a while I could complete the process right down to sorting organs. But the last 2 times we processed, I had to stay away from all things red. But I'm still good at cornering roosters, even with the ever expanding mid section.
Seriously, once you learn the process, it is not as bad as some would think and it adds real value to otherwise worthless cockerels.
 
Seriously, once you learn the process, it is not as bad as some would think and it adds real value to otherwise worthless cockerels.
I'm sure it is a great thing to know how to do. I'm not against it in any way. I'm just not up to learning it right now or investing in the tools. But give me a few more seasons and I might get there. I'm thinking it is the mothering instinct being in hyper drive right now.
 
As for E-Collars...so many people think that they are for punishing. They are not. Used properly, they are used to "steer" a dog to the behavior you want. I highly recommend Dogtra E Collars because they offer a rheostat control for the amount of correction desired. You can hold the "transmit" button down with a finger and slowly turn up the juice with your thumb until the dog complies to the command you are giving.
To have Jake walk on heel, like he was on a leash, it took very little stimulation. I couldn't feel it pressed into my palm it was so minute.He used to run other dogs, not only off the property, but out of the country so we started leaving the collar on him to change this behavior. One day, when he was young, he took off after another dog and as I called him I was turning up the rheostat dial. I couldn't believe how much juice it took him to start a U-turn back to me. When he started to comply I started to turn the rheostat down and by the time he got back to me there was no juice to his neck. Then he got praise. Good Boy. You are not the bad guy and he decides the amount of juice he gets.

Here is a great page to train you about training your dog using an E collar....

E Collar Introduction

I highly recommend researching E Collars before using them. It bothers me when I hear people say something like, "wait til I get that collar on him and he starts to do XYZ...I'll really light him up! That's not how to use them.

Five Myths About Shock Collars
Off soap box now.
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I'm looking into the links that you provided and it looks very promising as long as I devote the time and training necessary. Is there a particular one that you would recommend for a GSD with a lot of energy, there are a lot to choose from.
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She doesn't come when called if she's distracted and I would like her to stay on the property and not bark every time the neighbor comes out of his door and of course, whatever is needed to be around the flock. ;)
 
I use Heelers (Australian Cattle Dogs) with great success. Even though these aren't large dogs, they can be quite rough and territorial so they have to be conditioned and trained to conform to what you want then to do. I raised mine from age 8 weeks in the chicken house (starting off in a large kenned crate) and they live there now.

There are other small tough breeds that can do a good job, like the Australian shepherd, if you get a working strain as opposed to dogs that have bred for show without emphasis on working ability, the old type English shepherd, if you can find one...

I don't like border collies for this sort of work but some might...Kelpies could do if you are patient and willing to put the time into training.

All in all...for small holdings...go with the Heelers. IMHO
I keep Aussies, but have had them much longer than the chickens!!! They don't live out there of course, since the chickens came much later, but they have kept the foxes away. Bigger problem here is the raptors....hawks, eagles and owls are all in the area (I live in a subdivision on almost a third of an acre....so not really any coyotes or big cats). Haven't seen any coons, but my mom's mini schnauzer spends a fair bit of time here as well, and has done a great job with the rabbits and squirrels. We're planning for more land, and will always keep Aussies (my FAVORITE dog breed EVER), but since we would like goats or sheep, and a couple of alpacas or llamas, I'd love to get a Komondorok to watch the flock.
 
I should also mention that I look for certain traits and workability in my Aussies, and they are quite territorial. It did create problems with a neighbors where we used to live, since kids and others would try to cut through to get to a park nearby....the dogs were outside in the yard and a teenager got bit, but since it was on our property and I had all the vet records it wasn't that bad for us. Didn't have that problem too much after....now the dogs guard the fenceline here, but the neighbors are more accepting of it being their space. These are smart dogs, and do want a job, they have never been happier than having something to herd at home!
 
Not sure I am at the level I would attempt it yet. Maybe after processing a few more times. But to tell the truth I have been letting DH do the actual processing. I have helped catch the roo and for a while I could complete the process right down to sorting organs. But the last 2 times we processed, I had to stay away from all things red. But I'm still good at cornering roosters, even with the ever expanding mid section.
I forgot you were expecting :)
 
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I can't recommend a model as ours is going on 13 years...speaks to the durability tho....ours is water proof as we live by a lake. I still think that's a good feature to have. It needs to have the rheostat and with that control you don't need the vibrate option. I don't like the E collars that have a 1,2,3 etc. settings for the stimulation. Maybe the 1 setting is too much shock for your dog. I LIKE the infinite control.
I did what they recommended. I let him wear it around for a day or two to get used to it. Then one day, while he was totally relaxed, I pushed the button and gradually turned it up until he looked around like "what's that?" Then I knew that was where he could be trained. Training him to heel took about 2 minutes. He already knew, and that's important, what was expected of him from working on a leash. So I took him out with no leash and the collar on. When he started to leave my side I gradually turned up the power saying "heel" at the same time. Then praise, "Good Boy" when got back in position. Didn't take long for him to figure out that he needed to stay at my side. Occasionally a yummy dog smell would pop up and he would stop to smell. We don't do that "on heel" so I would keep walking and gradually turn it up on him....when he ran to catch up I started turning it down as he caught up....at my side there was no stimulation again. "Good Boy." You're never the bad guy.
 
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I'm sure it is a great thing to know how to do. I'm not against it in any way. I'm just not up to learning it right now or investing in the tools. But give me a few more seasons and I might get there. I'm thinking it is the mothering instinct being in hyper drive right now.
The zoo will take my unwanted male chicks for feeders.

They also pay $2.50 for any rooster silkie sized or over. I may take them up on this, as we do not want to eat our silkie roosters, and the extra ones are hard to rehome without a hen to go with them.
 

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