Top Ten Worming and Wormer Misinformations - Graphic Pictures!

Valbazen dose is 0.08 ml per pound orally for *one* day, then again in 10 days. Your average sized Rhode Island Red hen should get about 0.5ml (1/2 cc).

Safeguard should be used at ~ 0.23ml per pound for *five* consecutive days to treat capillary worms and gapeworms.

-Kathy


Thanks! In my stress about the situation I spaced it that Valbazen is only one day. I will print this out and put it with my chicken notes. I am very grateful for you sharing your knowledge!
My eight birds are so skiddish and the last three days haven't gone well with worming. I've tried bread, catching them, and separating them from each other. I have one that is just giving me fits! I think I'm going to have to get her off the roost tonight to squirting it in her mouth.
 
You're welcome! Read this, it might help you with dosing:
http://www.hopkinslivestock.com/oral_dosing_article.htm

-Kathy

That's a great article. I was worried about getting it "down the wrong pipe", so it was very helpful.

I know it's best if I give them each their correct dose individually, but for my own sanity, and the sake of my chickens, who at the moment don't trust me, is it possible to mix the total amount of medicine the whole flock needs in with applesauce, mealworms, or something else, and let them eat it all? They all really like applesauce, and nobody is a big enough bully to stop them from eating, so they all eat about the same amount.

Thanks!
 
It's not as bad as you think. There's nothing saying that you have to worm all your birds in one day. You can worm them in two or three days...by breed. For example; RIR's and White Leghorns the first day; Cinnamon Queens, Orps and BR's the second day etc...Just write down on a calender what breeds you wormed the first day, the second day, and the third day if necessary. Then reworm in the same order as necessary. Mark it on your calender for future reference as well. Good luck.

Well, a did a third of them this morning. I have a bad back so I'll try to do the others tomorrow. Just did the ones in the smaller coop. Have 40 more to go in the big coop! Thanx for the suggestion above. Still a challenge to do it with one person!
 
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Fleas are the host for infective tapeworm eggs for most animals, chickens too if they manage to eat one. Chickens eat all types of insects, that's how they are infected with tapeworms and other types of worms. That's called an"indirect" lifecycle when the worm egg(s) have a host. A "direct" lifecycle is when the chicken pecks the ground, which they do constantly, picks up worm eggs directlyh from the soil. The only way to slow or stop the worms lifecycle is to worm birds on a regular basis. Worming birds regularly kills the worms, then they cant lay eggs to contaminate your soil. It's that simple. It's an ongoing battle for an age old problem. Some worm eggs can survive in soil for years, even in frozen soil. There are some folks here in this forum that believe since they live in the frozen upper midwest or north, they dont have to worm their birds or have never wormed their birds as long as they have owned them. It's true that their soil may be frozen 10 months of the year, but during the two warm months of the year, microbic growth and reproduction of organisms are greatest. That's when their birds will get worms. Then in a month or two they wonder why their birds become lethargic and die off, or they die from some type of respiratory disease...root cause due to worms weakening their birds immune system. I've seen it happen and it's preventable.


I am brand new to chickens. Does the above comment mean that it would be best not to give bugs as treats? When I saw how much my birds like earthworms, crickets, etc., I started looking for them so I could give them to the birds.

Jon
 
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Everything is a host for worms practically. If your chickens walk on dirt, they have worms. Most chicken owners don't lose any sleep over worm sources. Good husbandry is your best defense, clean, dry coops, good ventilation, quality feed and clean water will make for healty happy hens. When a worm problem does pop up, timely treatment with an appropriate wormer will keep you and your hens happy!
 
.......I try not to bring that up for fear of freaking every body out.....

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