What Rabbits Do You Have? Show Off Your Rabbits Here!

Coolest Rabbit Breed Out Of These?

  • Holland Lop

    Votes: 108 21.3%
  • English Spot

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • American Fuzzy Lop

    Votes: 11 2.2%
  • Mini Rex/Rex

    Votes: 107 21.1%
  • New Zealand

    Votes: 94 18.6%
  • Polish

    Votes: 13 2.6%
  • English Lop

    Votes: 33 6.5%
  • Mini Satins/Satins

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • Lionhead

    Votes: 112 22.1%

  • Total voters
    506
Cyndi, quarantine is a requirement for all animals entering and leaving a property, even for pets IMO. When we get a new puppy, we keep them separated for a week or two, and those are vaccinated pets. Farm animals go into a quarantine pen for one month any time they leave my property... Even if it's just for a day or two. It's a lot of extra effort that many breeders won't risk, but I also sell to the pet market and youths on occasion and don't want to be responsible for people putting rabbits in shelters... Especially since most shelter rabbits are rabbit breeds meant for meat/furs like mine. They are big, standoffish, boring white bunnies with creepy red eyes that hit the shelters and get spayed/neutered so they're useless as pets or production. Nobody wants them. They never see another home again. I still buy from people who don't offer returns because rabbit diseases that can wipe out your whole herd are very real and therefore returns are risky, but I trust people who do offer returns more. All this stuff should be common sense, but I don't know how many people I've met who don't do any of it. Some of the "breeders" I've met couldn't even sex their rabbits they were asking $75 each for. Some people are just in it to be a rabbit mill and make a quick buck. Lots of ignorant people buy rabbits, especially near a big city like where I live. It can be a lucrative market fed by ignorance, so I try to combat it where I can. I think education is key to responsible animal ownership and husbandry...


As for litter sizes, if you want meat, furs or even babies to sell as pets your bottom line is based on how many babies your rabbits can produce. Rabbits can have litter ranging from 3 to 14 kits in a single litter. And while a doe's milk production scales a little based on the number of kits, it's only a loose correlation and the fewer kits there are the more milk they get per kit. That means that if you wanted to get a small number of extremely high quality rabbits you would want smaller litters. The kits would drink more milk, grow faster, have nicer fur, be healthier, etc. This is how most show rabbits are born. They're exceptional examples of the breed because they have no competition and they're selected for carefully, etc. But you still end up with fewer rabbits. Rabbits have 8 nipples and feed twice a day and so a good production rabbit can raise 8-12 kits, but they won't be as high of quality in the show ring.

An example is if you're looking at production numbers for two does of the same breed and weight. One doe is a show quality rabbit from show lines with a pedigree, and the other is a 4H rabbit from market lines with no history. Both rabbits cost the same amount of money to feed, treat health problems, and hours of time to care for each year.

The show doe has an average litter size of 4. From a show perspective, if those rabbits win shows they could be worth money and increase your rabbitry's reputation as a producer of show winning rabbits and would maybe let you sell show rabbits at a premium. From any other standpoint, that translates into 4 hides and 4 carcasses, or 4 pet sales all of above average quality. So, you might be able to value the hides at $5 instead of $3 ($20 for all 4) and you might get 12lbs of meat (4, 3lb carcasses), or you might be able to ask for $30 per kit instead of $25 as pets so you'd get $120.

Compare to a rabbit that produces an average 9 kit litters. The rabbits are slightly smaller, there is probably a runt in the litter that is worth nothing for any meat/hide purpose. These rabbits are healthy, but they have flaws in a show ring (stray mis-colored hairs or nails, they aren't as round as they should be, their face is too long, they grow a bit slower, whatever) and showing these rabbits probably won't do much for your rabbitry. But you have EIGHT of them. That means $24 in hides (8x$3) and 20lbs (8, 2.5lb rabbits) of meat. For pets, you have 8-9, $25 rabbits to sell for $200-$225.

In both situations, you have spent the same amount of money on taking care of the doe. But if you don't intend to show your rabbits (because you want to raise for meat or furs) the second option is always the best because each litter gets you 20lbs of meat instead of 12. And in reality? The show quality doe with the small litters probably cost you $100 to buy, while the meat production rabbit will cost you $30. Start looking at those numbers on a yearly basis and if you're not showing then over the course of 6 litters the "low quality" production doe will give you 120lbs of meat a year, while the show rabbit will only give you 72lbs. If you have two does you get 144lbs from the show does and 240lbs from the production does. It just get more staggering from there.

That why finding someone who sells very healthy rabbits that produce an average of 8-9 kits per litter is so important for a homestead or meat production. Show rabbits become almost a waste of space unless you're specifically trying to break into showing. A lot of "production" new zealand whites are too big for showing or their kits aren't nice enough looking, or they are too long or whatever. But if they produce 8 kits in a litter instead of 4, they're going to meet your meat needs WAY better. Which is why I always ask about average litter size, and how big they get by 12 weeks. If the rabbits produce less than 6 kits per litter, or they don't hit 4lbs by 12 weeks, I won't buy them. They don't produce enough fast growing rabbits to justify the doe's feed costs.
 
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@ChocolateMouse I have noticed so many more diseases w/in the backyard farm animals become more severe & complicated. i have no idea why? do you? I have never thought to quarantine a new dog, except for the parvo disease. I have seperated new horses, but only because of fighting issues.
a BYC member has found out that her chickens have mareks and now i just lost a cockrel from some diseas?? not sure what? i just pray i do not have mareks on my property. do you know if rabbits can get this virus?
I pm w/a couple of friends here and one lady reminded me of Bio Security. i had not heard of it, so i googled it; WOW!! since learning about cleanliness i have make 2 wash stations, one for my rabbit & chicken area and one for my duck area. i have sprayed for mites and have increased my cleaning regiments. and when a neighbor came over to buy some bunnies from me i asked her to wear clean clothes and shoes that she has not worn around her chickens and i told her of my possible mareks and she was not intimitated; i would of been if the situation was reversed. and i just pray she was honest w/me about her shoes and clothes.

There is a 4H Fair Aug 24-28 near me and i am going to go and look at the rabbits. you were talking about show rabbits and quality kits. How can i tell the quality of these kits, doe's and bucks? what should i look for? i do not know confirmation of rabbits. should i look for awards to be my guide? I would just be looking for large meat rabbits (e.g. Am Chin, Silver Fox &/or Champg D'Arg) and possibly a beautiful, great temperment, pet rabbit for fun.
looking at my town Fair Schedule the "4-H Division Pet Rabbit" What will be shown in this division. I could call or email someone and ask, but thought i would ask you too. they did not identify any specific breeds. probably alot of dwarfs and small rabbits; definately not meat rabbits, right?
maybe i will leave w/a cute little pet rabbit?

you were giving me choices for selling meat/fur rabbits etc. i will check around and look on CL (craigslist) to see if rabbits are selling much around here. I have duck & chicken eggs & meat for sale, but i cant even give them away, especially the duck eggs. we have local, small town, "farmers markets" that i have set up a table to sell my ducks eggs and i have made a total of $5.00 after paying for booth, gasoline, etc. not woth it for me. people turn their nose up at my duck eggs. people are grossed out by duck eggs. Oh Well, nothing i can do.

thanks again, hope your day is amazing. we are having a heatwave here in north idaho. are temps are in the los 90's this week.
i have froze water bottles and i hang them on the outside ot the rabbit cages. i put them in their new cages, my dh built for them/me... so nice. i better go ck on them.
ttyl
 
Cyndi, Mareks is not zoonotic (cross species). Very few diseases can spread from birds to mammals. The main things that are cross-species are parasites (worms, fleas, ticks, protozoa, etc). Instead you have to worry about "snuffles" in rabbits mostly, which is really poorly understood and has no cure. As best we can tell it's a severe flu caused by a particular strain of Pasturella bacteria but it's very confusing because that particular strain of bacteria is everywhere and lots of healthy rabbits test positive for it. What we do know for sure is that snuffles is extremely contageous, usually fatal, upper respiritory disease characterized by runny eyes/nose, sneezing, lethargy and occasionally abcesses. It's the only really severe rabbit disease out there. Most of the rest respond well to simple down-home treatments or are genetic.

I think the reason some dieseases are so severe in the domestic world is because our animals do not have the severe pressure of natural selection on them... So their natural immunity is slowly bred out. In the wild an animal that gets ill is immediately removed from the flock by predation. Could you imagine a Mareks chicken living for one day in the jungle where wild chickens live? But we protect our animals from these diseases and treat the diseases we can so animals with weaker immune systems live on to reproduce. The other problem is that vaccines against diseases like Mareks are NOT sterile. Most human and canine vaccines are "sterile" meaning that if you are vaccinated against that condition and are exposed to that disease, the virus or whatnot simply dies inside your body. (As in, if your dog gets a rabies vaccine and gets bit by a dog with rabies the disease is immediately eliminated from the dogs body. The dog that got bit does not carry rabies.) This is not the case with Mareks and many other animal conditions. The Mareks vaccine for example is non sterile which means that vaccinated birds who get exposed to Mareks still get Mareks. They still carry the Mareks disease, they can shed the disease and spread it to other animals, they just don't get sick and die. The Mareks vaccine is just covering up the fact that in reality you have a sick bird... And it's only 75% effective anyhow so if Mareks gets in your flock you still have massive losses.

That's why for the most extreme diseases that could wipe out billions of animals world-wide and disrupt our entire supply chain for food nationally we have extreme precautions. Things like if the government finds Avian Flu virus in your flock they will come in, seize your flock and then euathenize them and burn the bodies to try to control the disease. And it works. It works so well that we have programs like the NPIP to monitor these diseases and they are required for shipping birds across state lines. But since we have a vaccine for Mareks and it's a slow acting disease, we don't have a program for Mareks. If everyone who had a chicken infected with Marek's culled their birds for the next 10 years we might be able to eliminate it world-wide, but that'll never happen. Too many sappy pet owners, people with show birds they want to breed anyhow, people with illegal flocks, people who are just stubborn who won't do it. We already have problems with monitored regulated diseases from those sorts of people. In 2010 there was an outbreak of Newcastle that came from a backyard flock of game chickens and it cost 8 billion dollars and thousands of dead chickens to fix. So if it wouldn't disrupt the entire national food supply or cause a national outrage, nobody even tries to beat an animal disease. That's why snuffles in rabbits is so poorly understood. It's just not a national crisis.


So, end of that rant. That's all my opinion of course. Back to bunnies...

Conformation is different for every rabbit but there are some things that are universal to picking a rabbit.
Head: Check eyes, ears and nose. Make sure they are clean and clear. Look for discharge (especially green or yellow), oddly extended third eyelids, redness, swelling, ear canker (mites), and check to see that the front teeth are even and look normal. You can find pictures for these things with some simple google searches. You don't want a rabbit with messed up teeth. That's genetic.

Body: Make sure that the body is solid, well muscled and nicely proportioned. Most good commercial rabbits look like a bowling ball cut in half. They should look small but feel surprisingly heavy. Make sure the fur is clean and healthy looking.

Feet: Check the bottoms to see if they are well-furred. Many rabbits have callouses on their feet and this is usually OK as long as they are not red, swollen, scabbed or open wounds. That's sore hocks. Also, look at the way the feet are set in alignment with the body. When you flip a rabbit on their back and look at the way the feet stick up, many rabbits have hind feet that look like (\_/) where the "heels" are tighter together than the toes. This means that the hip bones are pinched and they might have trouble giving birth. Instead you wanna see (|_|) when you look at their back feet while they are on their back. The more parallel the back feet the better.

Reproduction: Always check the gender of the rabbit yourself. On boy rabbits, expose the penis and look for a split penis. You don't want that. On girl rabbits make sure they have all their nipples and they are well developed (sometimes a rabbit develops with only 6 or 7, which translates into fewer kits fed).

And then always ask the owner about how many kits they tend to throw, their weight, their or their offsprings weight around 3 months and anything else you might wanna know about their history. The judges might be able to tell you more about the individual rabbits shown. Every rabbit show is different. I would guess that pet rabbits would show pet rabbit breeds or might even only show people's individual pets. You will have to call and ask. I really have no idea. 4H operates differently everywhere... But you want to look for shows that have meat or market pens in their show.

I was mostly just giving numbers as examples. The point in, a show rabbit may well produce less than a non-show rabbit if your goal isn't showing so tread carefully and learn about the reproductive history of the animal you're looking to buy. There's a good chance that you will go home with a rabbit between 8 and 12 weeks and will need to ask questions about the parents instead. Good luck!
 
@ChocolateMouse i am so glad mareks is not zoonotic.. if i have mareks, i want to cull all my chickens and wait for the virus to leave or die off. i have heard it can take 5+ yrs and i have also read that you never get rid of it from the soil. i would just give up on chickens altogether. i have heard that a person can develop a mareks resistant flock, but then you can sell, bring in chickens, right? i do not understand the the people who keep animals and are always trying to fix them when it is the best interest/kindness of the animals to be humanely euthanized and releived of their pain. I love my animals enough to not want them to suffer. and if a disease is chronic and can be exterminated i am all for doing what is necessary.

thanks for all the rabbit husbandry. i have spent a few hrs watching youtube videos on how to handle a rabbit, breeding, behaviors, housing, showing, & culling... i still have not found what "fitting" means when showing a rabbit. i even learned what cavies are. I could watch these videos all day, until i get my fill.
i put my rabbits in their new cages, that my dh built and the youngest kits are ok w/their new home but the older (3) does and the 2 bucks are nervous, not eating much or drinking much and just hiding in the nest box. i pet them and talk to them and offer them a raisin and then leave them alone. they are pretty scared of humans cuz the previous owners just fed, bred and culled them. i just want them to be comfortable w/me. i dont necessarily want them to be my best friend, since i will probably cull them as i build my herd.
I am 3hrs behind your time zone, so you are probably ready for bed soon. thanks again for sharing your knowledge w/me, i love learning and i am not afraid to say "i didnt know that" or to ask Q's. you dont seem to mind. thanks again
 
I don't actually know what fitting means with regards to rabbit shows, since I don't show... I suggest fresh greens over fruit. Dandelions work well. A little at a time of course. It may take a long time for them to warm up to you... But the fact that they are hiding not biting is a good start.

I honestly don't know enough about natural Mareks immunity. Some diseases live in the body forever, like chicken pox or mono. Some diseases if you have an immunity to your body kills the virus rather than just gets used to managing it's presence. An example of this would be the flu, where your body "catches" the virus, then "kills" it using white blood cells and fever and then you no longer carry it. That's why you can get the flu every year even though you could have caught it a dozen times before, as opposed to chicken pox or mono which live inside you forever, usually without symptoms and therefore can't be caught again because you already "have" the disease. I have no idea which one Mareks is for chickens. Frankly, I just cull any animals that appear to be sick if they don't get better after a week in quarantine or I can't easily identify the cause and treatment.

No worries, I keep late hours. And I like answering questions. :)
 
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i found this
700
 
The handler is judged on how well they take care of their rabbits and they are judged on their knowledge/husbandry of the rabbit.
i watched a youtube video of a young lady practicing for fitting, and then her mom & coach grilled her w/Q's of her rabbit, diseases, husbandry, breeding, etc.
It was very educational.

I have a Q for you, or anyone who may be able to answer it?
I have a buck that is not eating much and is drinking very little. He is under 2yo, (i just acquired him, and 10 other rabbits) and i just moved them all into new cages that my dh built for them. i am thinking he is confused, nervous, uncertain, etc of his new surroundings.
is there anythink i should be looking for. i have given him many food options, even the ones he likes and he is not eating them, or very little. I havent weighed him lately. i will, to see if he has lost any oz's...
thanks for any suggestions... maybe just give him more time to adjust to his new home??
 
The handler is judged on how well they take care of their rabbits and they are judged on their knowledge/husbandry of the rabbit.
i watched a youtube video of a young lady practicing for fitting, and then her mom & coach grilled her w/Q's of her rabbit, diseases, husbandry, breeding, etc.
It was very educational.

I have a Q for you, or anyone who may be able to answer it?
I have a buck that is not eating much and is drinking very little. He is under 2yo, (i just acquired him, and 10 other rabbits) and i just moved them all into new cages that my dh built for them. i am thinking he is confused, nervous, uncertain, etc of his new surroundings.
is there anythink i should be looking for. i have given him many food options, even the ones he likes and he is not eating them, or very little. I havent weighed him lately. i will, to see if he has lost any oz's...
thanks for any suggestions... maybe just give him more time to adjust to his new home??
Give him a day or two and watch his consumption and also his water intake. If he stops drinking water, try force feeding pedialyte.
 
Bucks drink and eat a lot less than their doe counterparts even when the does aren't pregnant or nursing. They also consume less if it's warm. If he is consuming even less than you think he usually would under those circumstances you might want to look for an environmental factor making him feel insecure or uncomfortable. Sore hocks, worms, an excess of flies, heat or cold, loud noises, predators moving around their cages at night, nowhere to hide to feel secure... I would give it a few days and see what happens. If it doesn't get better, keep an eye on his weight and start investigating.
 

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