Here's a couple pics.
You can see the RANCO ETC-111000 (hvac parts warehouse) on the back. It regulates the temps within 1 degree. The extra gray plastic gizmos are my first attempt at making a dunking mechanism. Still needs more work. Also, note the white plastic drain pipe exiting the side of the base.
This pictures shows a top view looking into the scaler. You can see the electric heating element bolted to the side of the scalder along with (2) bolts holding the two sections of the barrel together. I also have the temperature probe "hanging" over the top edge of the barrel. This will be permanently mounted to the side of the barrel with a small piece of mastic tape (RV roofing tape). You can also see the sink drain installed in the bottom. The white ring (and copper connector) at the top of the barrel is my first attempt to solidify the top cut edge of the barrel. It is a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe bent into a circle and then slit on the table saw (be VERY careful doing this) and fitted over the top edge. It works fine, but needs some cosmetic refinements!
And, here is the bottom of the scalder. Since I live in a very remote part of the country, I had few options for connecting a drain. Of course one does not need the "trap" but it really doesn't hurt anything either (as long as I drain it before winter). I will probably change that some day...if I feel like it.
This thing is pretty simple. However, there isn't much rocket science involved in heating water. The backbone to this system is the Ranco digital temperature controller and the 120 volt, 1500 watt heating element (and the flange kit). These are very common items. Nearly any hardware store will have the flange mount (about $10) and EVERY RV dealer will have the heating element. Of course all the stuff is available on line.
You can see the RANCO ETC-111000 (hvac parts warehouse) on the back. It regulates the temps within 1 degree. The extra gray plastic gizmos are my first attempt at making a dunking mechanism. Still needs more work. Also, note the white plastic drain pipe exiting the side of the base.
This pictures shows a top view looking into the scaler. You can see the electric heating element bolted to the side of the scalder along with (2) bolts holding the two sections of the barrel together. I also have the temperature probe "hanging" over the top edge of the barrel. This will be permanently mounted to the side of the barrel with a small piece of mastic tape (RV roofing tape). You can also see the sink drain installed in the bottom. The white ring (and copper connector) at the top of the barrel is my first attempt to solidify the top cut edge of the barrel. It is a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe bent into a circle and then slit on the table saw (be VERY careful doing this) and fitted over the top edge. It works fine, but needs some cosmetic refinements!
And, here is the bottom of the scalder. Since I live in a very remote part of the country, I had few options for connecting a drain. Of course one does not need the "trap" but it really doesn't hurt anything either (as long as I drain it before winter). I will probably change that some day...if I feel like it.
This thing is pretty simple. However, there isn't much rocket science involved in heating water. The backbone to this system is the Ranco digital temperature controller and the 120 volt, 1500 watt heating element (and the flange kit). These are very common items. Nearly any hardware store will have the flange mount (about $10) and EVERY RV dealer will have the heating element. Of course all the stuff is available on line.
