Something to think about with a solid roof: where is the concentrated rain going to go when it gets to the edge of the roof? Gutters are the "right" thing for that, but look at your layout and think about what possibilities are workable. You just don't want to end up with an eroded trench along...
Chain link all around for the walls, 1/2 inch or so hardware cloth overlaying that for the bottom 2 ft and for a 2ft "apron", heavy duty black plastic mesh fencing for the roof, all held on to the metal poles with the super heavy zip ties. A brick/stone border isn't a bad idea either, just...
Is there any way to keep the roos out until the girls are older and better able to self-advocate against feisty roos? That's not a lot of space for an unsettled group, and if the roos are really trying to breed then they may hurt the immature pullets. Once the big run is secure and ready then...
It sounds like the roos are discovering testosterone, and the change in the environment has shaken them up a little. As long as there is enough space that they are not all in each other's faces all the time the flock should settle down within a few days. If there isn't enough elbow room, enough...
I've had too many great hatches where the humidity never got below 60% the entire time. The air cell and membranes can handle a pretty wide range of climates. Broodies hatch eggs in both Arizona and Florida just fine. The only time I've seen big losses from humidity is with a sudden, drastic...
I'd look at temp control first, being too hot can cause growth and positioning defects that can interfere with hatching. Being too cold slows development, shifting the balance between physical size, coordination, yolk supply, etc to mess up the biological timer that starts the hatching process...
For the coop floor, I like a plain smooth-ish wood panel if the coop is a design that is easy to blast out with the hose or pine shavings if it's something I'll be sweeping out to clean. I like smaller coops, big enough for the birds roost comfortably and hold a few nest boxes and not much else...
My laying EEs were all 4-6 egg a week layers, March through November. They were several generations from purebred with no specific A-acana features like beards, ear tufts, or rumplessness remaining other than some blue egg gene carriers. The eggs were usually large size, and came in tan, pink...
Embryos don't use up that much oxygen, don't worry about the first ten days. Especially if you are opening the 'bator now and then to candle or add water, that's plenty of air exchange for them until close to hatch.
Humidity gets fussier the closer you get to hatch, but there is still a rather...
Generally speaking, at a minimum you want a really secure coop and a secure-enough run to discourage daytime predators. When gauging your daytime predator risk, consider the cover available to the birds, the cover available to the predators, how much human activity there is in the immediate...
Some baby pics, because why not?
The first two are the Yellow Pullet, then the Brown Pullet, then a group pic of all the feed store babies, all pics at about 5 days old (give or take, I don't remember which day I took pics).
Yellow at a few weeks old
Yellow was always an...
Thank you for all of your input! I have tried to get some better pics.
Although feed stores are notoriously error-prone, I doubt it was a feed store error in this particular instance. It's a small store with a small, dedicated long term staff that only carries two breeds at a time, and the two...
Pic 12 has a similar color type as my yellow pullet. Pic 2 I'm not convinced, the pics of their brown leghorn pullets look more like my brown pullet. All their EE show puffy faces, which these 2 girls definitely don't have.
I'm totally willing to believe a chipmunk chick ended up in the wrong...