well...the big!!! ones were double yolkers..not much chance of successful hatch in those :/ And after candling yesterday at 14 days...I'm down to 7 fertile and growing. Not too bad for just plain ol barnyard run eggs. The other non-fertile eggs ...besides the double yolkers...were just that...
I would find an accurate human thermometer and lay it next to the eggs...touching is best. BUT..digital IR thermometers rely on Emissivity..which depends on surface texture...colors!!..and what material the spot where ya shine the aiming light on.. If you even calibrate the thermo for a white...
I bought 8 ducklings locally...and a dozen fertile eggs.. my old incubator wouldn't get above 80F much...soooo I bought a new Little Giant 11300 with turner at the feed store..
I found a lady that sold Ducks and fertile Duck eggs fairly local. Nice lady..decent prices. Bought 8 Ducklings..and a...
According to what I have seen for a replacement..the incubator original supply puts out 12 volts at 5 (five) amps...that supply only delivers 9/10's of an amp.. It might overheat/burnout the power supply.
Oppsss, forgot. I take that wonky piece of plastic off of the temp probe ...carefully! remove that staple. And tape the end of the probe to a golf ball with about 1" of the probe tip hanging out in free air. The piece of plastic is the most unstable thing outside of my feet on ice! If it moves...
When you first get the incubator set to more/less correct temps. Leave it for a day or two. Use calibrated or known accurate thermometers to verify the inside more or less bator average. Remember the outside walls are the coolest...shoot for measuring 1/3 the way to the middle in 2-4 spots. Do...
Was the Harbor Freight solar system the 3 -15 watt panel thing with the controller? If so it puts out 45 watts in full sun at 90 degrees to the panels (straight down on) at best. And won't put out nearly as much at higher/lower sun angles...and none at night. In the Winter time the highest...
This is my latest addition to the chicken pens. The bottom 8" or so of a 5 gallon bucket cut off and approx 10 feet of 4 watts per foot of self-regulating heat trace (industrial heat tape) wound around and then heat/air aluminum faced tape....the real sticky gummy one... wrapped around that...
Check inside of coop for a large snake...or rat hole??
Chickens can't tell time so the time change has nothing much to do with it.. Light to dark is the only thing they pretty much understand.. Something has them spooked about going into the coop at dark.
If the door is on a timer make sure it's...
All of my early/mid April hatched pullets are laying now. I average about 11 plus eggs a day from 13 girls.. Usually 12..sometimes 13...sometimes 11 for a couple of days. But they have a couple extra hours of "light" with a coop and a small light out in the pen too, so they can see to go to the...
Only thing I did was keep the faith and jack up the temp close to a degree and a half last week and let them go into the second day after when they "should" have started...my fault mostly cuz I just trusted the 2 thermometers that last hatch really stayed accurate. And plus the 2 power outages...
Well... after 2 power outages for at least one hour each. Last one 2 days before hatch day. They are starting. One is out.. One is pipped and mostly zipped. and one is just pipped. A couple more look like bare "maybes".. And my 2 "supposedly" accurate thermometers lying about 1 1/2 degrees low...
Is it a forced air model? Or the still air...I forget which you have.
And yeah..for a lot of hours the temp will be lower somewhat..until the eggs get to temp. Forced air the 99.5 is fine at the top of egg....still air should be closer to 101 at the top of the egg.
The low end could be a degree...