Raccoon could open that. Figure if a toddler could fumble it open, so can they.
A hasp lock with a carabiner would be a better option, or anything else that requires a 2 part movement.
You would know if she was eggbound, she'd be acting unwell and waddling around uncomfortably.
No chickens cannot stop laying if they don't like nesting options. If you lock them in a cage and they need to lay, they'll still lay regardless of the fact that there's no suitable spot to sit in.
Asked about the set up to see how easy/hard integration will be once time comes. Since you have a lot more little ones than adults that will help.
As far as biological quarantine give this a read if you haven't already...
I wouldn't water in winter as that'll just give you frozen litter (plus who wants to stand out in freezing conditions dumping water on things?) Save composting efforts for warmer weather.
Hemp is great for compost.
I don't believe coccidiosis is an issue here. A little bit of vitamins and electrolytes is fine, and might help give the hard molter a bit of a boost and get her to eat a bit more, but it probably won't have much effect on her actual molt or her diarrhea issue. You never know though - if it...
Corid is fairly safe so if you are worried about coccidiosis you can treat them to ease your mind. However if you're giving them Corid you need to commit to the full round of treatment AND do not add any additional vitamins like the Rooster Booster during the duration.
Also a fan of golf balls here as the dimpling means you can feel under a hen and differentiate them from eggs. Are there oddballs that WON'T lay in boxes that other birds use? Yes. I now leave one without any fakes. But the others definitely prefer the boxes with the fakes.
I did try to...
Molt may have put a pause on her laying, plus even some pullets can be affected by shorter day length. She might pick up again in a couple weeks, or she might continue taking a break until days start getting longer as that will help trigger laying.
If you are *strictly* adhering to biological quarantine then you'd want to do about a month. If you're not being strict about it (full clothing change, the 2 setups are as far apart as possible on the property, at least 100 ft or more, etc.) then there's really no point in quarantining at all...
Both of those things will help.
If it's close to a solid fence the fence should provide plenty of wind protection as long as this isn't placed somewhere where wind tends to funnel.
Don't worry about size of the coop for now. Just manually put them in each night (so they can't see very well and you won't have to chase them around) and continue to do so until they start understanding that's where they're supposed to be at night.
They may not lay the rest of this year due...
Was this just gathered? If you're thinking of using it I'd crack it in a small cup and smell/look to see if anything looks off. If yes, best to not risk it.
As the coop is too small to lock them in to home them to it, and they're skittish, best to wait until it's nearly dark and then manually move them from the top of the coop to inside until they figure it out.
Mainly they're pests - they eat feed, they carry diseases. Rats can possibly injure chickens by biting their feet or can kill chicks, but that's less likely than other predators.
I also have a local black bear and honestly if it's going to break in, it's going to break in (I don't have...
x2, I like this idea and it'd give them more space, and more protection from the weather.
Unfortunately it'll be very difficult to keep a small coop and run from being buried in snow, and you don't really have enough run height to block off winds while leaving ample openings for ventilation.
Squirrels, birds, mice, rats, snakes. Raccoons can reach through. If you're doing electric that should help exclude anything bigger though.
My top suggestion would be to swap out the chicken wire on the coop for hardware cloth so that's more secure, to keep out rodents and snakes. You can...
Molt can be hard on them and really mess with their eating and digestion. So if there's no other signs that something's amiss, I'd chalk the issues up to being molt related.
My bird that's currently in the hardest molt is also having very noticeable diarrhea. And she doesn't want any treats...
If it won't fit through the opening then outside should be good enough. Inside would be better simply because a run would be more secure than just a crate outside so if it can be broken down and reassembled, I'd opt for that.