14 hours is optimum... but why push them. imo, when they want/need to slow down. or even stop, let them. no need to stress their bodies like that.. i want them to live long/happy/healthy lives
absolutley do NOT eat, you will get poops, vomit, and run a dangerously high fever.. better be extra safe and seen all your eggs to me.... lol jk.. they are perfectly fine to eat..
insulation is up to you. it caint hurt, but is unnessesary. if your coop can stay dry, and as draft free as possible(while still allowing for ventilation)
i am sure alot of ppl will dissagree, but heat in the coop is a no-no. for several reasons, one they bassicaly get use to the heat, and...
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i understand what you are saying, about trying to keep it natual. natural isnt always best, in nature there is a much higher mortality rate. in captivity we can provide much better.. and to add to that, in nature they would be under constant threat from predators, do you have a...
beautiful birds... dont worry yourself to death... most important thing is keep drafts off of them. and plenty of ventilation.. those 2 things plus unfroze water and you and your birds will be just fine. you will see, you will do what most ppl do, and try to make your coop as warm and comfy as...
to add to what tewwtyflights said.. if you go with live plants, you will rarely need to gravel vac, as the waste and excess food is broken down and used as fertilizer.. but with live plants you will need some sort of fertilization for the plants and the right kind of lights(most recomend a 65k...
i know it is probibly a lost cause, but is there any tricks to keep grass in your run.. they eat/scratch it down so fast. i have no real reason for this other than cosmetic, and well with winter coming(freezing and thawing) i am sure it will be a nasty mess. plus spring rains.. so does anybody...
if the cord doesnt store underneath, then i recomend what mike already said.. just buy another cheat (unheated) waterer and use all summer... will save wear on the heated.