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Temps are right for the first week. Be sure to raise the lamp the second week and then higher the third week. At the end of the third week, turn off the heat during the day. They will be feathered enough not to need heat during the day, only at night. Get the water tested. You probably would...

It doesn't matter. But no extra B vitamins must be given during treatment. Corid is a thiamine blocker, what coccidia thrive on.

Since coccidia are everywhere, that's a possibility. But there's an incubation period of five to seven days from first exposure to onset of symptoms. If ground water is contaminated, there are all sorts of bacteria that can affect your well water, and it takes very little to make tiny chicks...

Shipping stress does take a toll. Warm sugar water and some chicken vitamins usually cures that unless the weather was very cold and chicks on the perimeter got irreversibly chilled.

Pine should be safe. I'm sorry I can't think of anything else that could be sickening your chicks. Do get another thermometer and check the brooder temps. It's the only think I can think of that could cause all the symptoms.

When you do check the temperature, it should not be over 90F the first week. If the chicks are indoors and it's 70F, the brooder doesn't need to be 90F. 80F is plenty. The reason is that indoor temps cause chicks to lose body heat much slower than chicks brooded outdoors. An over heated brooder...

Take the temperature on the floor of the brooder directly under the lamp. Then take the temp again at the farthest point from the lamp footprint. Please tell us what they read. What are you feeding? Including treats.