Swollen toes, toenails covered or missing -photos-

Mites will remain in the wood, especially with the duct tape where they can hide. I would suggest that you remove the roosts on a nice sunny day, paint them with a couple good coats of kerosene and let them dry well in the sun before putting back in the coop. This will kill all the mites living in the wood and prevent their return. While they are drying, remove all bedding, wood chips, nesting materials and give the entire coop a good disinfecting while the girls are outside for the day.

Quote:
His foot has swelled a bit more now. I wish I knew what to do for him .... gonna do some checking to see if any of the vets in the area will take a look at him. Wish I knew what to do for him

You can buy ivermectin generically in smaller more economical quantities.

http://www.nextag.com/ivermectin-pour-on/shop-html

I just bought 250ml of Aspen brand ivermectin pour on for $13.95 at my local and usually more expensive feed store.

Here's the advice on ivermectin usage compiled by myself and Glenda Heywood as posted by her on behalf of us both:

Glenda: ivomec kinds
Ivomec 1% is water soluable and injectable, fast
release and needs lowing down going thru the gut. that
is why they use proplene glycol 3 drops to 1 drop of
ivemec 1%.
5% pour on is oil based and only used on shoulder of
the bird in drops. Slow release going into the
body
Something I noticed when comparing labels is that
Ivermectin Pour-On( 5%) kills both sucking & biting lice
whereas Ivermectin Injectable(1%) kills sucking lice but
not biting lice.

The words that people can't eat the eggs after worming is this:
It just means that the eggs can't be used for 10 days
A friend of mine Nathalie Ross gave this info on using Ivermectin


Nathalie: If you go with Ivermectin injectable, you'll also need to buy propylene glycol to use with the injectable.
By the time you do this, you've spent the same amount of money as the pour on with what I feel isn't the
same level of effectiveness honestly, but some
people have access to injectable and not pour on so it's an option.

For the pour on Ivermectin (not Eprinex) the dosage I
use is as follows:
1 drop - OEGB sized small bantam female
2 drops - OEGB sized small bantam male
3 drops - average bantams
4 drops - large bantams, small commercial fowl
5 drops - most commercial fowl, small giant hens
6 drops - giant breeds of chicken

I always use a 3 cc syringe that I just fill to about
2 cc's with a 20 gauge needle. The needle WON'T be injected into the chicken, but does make it easier to dispense a controlled correct sized drop. It also is easier to get in there between the feathers.

For location, you'll want to find an easy to reach
spot with as little fluff as possible. I've had the
best luck with the back of the neck when I am by myself.

I just pick up the chicken in my left
hand, ruffle around the feathers with my right hand until I find a nice clear spot, then rotate the syringe around to dispense the drops exactly on the skin.

If you hit the fluff, it will soak in before
you can do anything and will be wasted. That stuff soaks in like lightening (which I discovered to my horror when I accidently got about 1 cc of it on me from the bottle - I'm worm free now!)
after giving Ivermectin.

Glenda: Do the throwing of the eggs away for 10 days and then the medication will be out of the gut of the chickens

But at least you would rid the chickens of the worms which are eating 90% of the chickens daily feed!

they will be better off by getting the Chemical wormer first ( I would give wazine first then in 10 days the ivermectin)
so the chickens body can be rid of the adult round worms and then the other worms from Ivermectin

It will cause a less poisonous effect on the gut of the chickens. If not having been wormed before the killing of the round worms is enough for first time then in 19 days worm with Ivermectin

If after worming you want to get what adults are in the gut of the chickens you can put 2% of daily feed by giving DE

The chemical wormer goes into the blood stream and the DE worms by knicking the soft worms skin and they die of dehydration
so the chickens are covered both ways.