3.5 Week Old Bunnies Dying! PLEASE HELP!

As one person pointed out first time does can have problems. We got a doe that had never been bred before. She had 7 kits im her first litter and between 2-3 weeks old five of the seven died. She had 5 with this second litter and all five are now 7 1/2 weeks old and have done great.

I am glad to hear that your remaining babies are doing a lot better, and that the KMR helped, and that you posted that information on the pedialite. That is something I want to keep I mind for future reference. A couple of things I have read that you may or may not want to keep in mind for future reference is if something happens to a doe and she isn't feeding her kits first choice for hand feeding is doe's milk, whether giving kits to another doe or expressing the mother's milk to feed them. If that isn't possible, second choice was goat's milk which you can buy at Wal-Mart in the dairy section (I work at a no-kill cat shelter and this is also recommended by some vets as better then KMR). KMR was actually listed as the third or fourth choice. Also the doe produces certain feces that the kits eat to help their ph levels in the gut adjust to eating solid foods. I am not sure what age kits need to start eating this or how long it needs to be fed to them, but it is a necessity or hand fed young kits won't survive. Picture a bunch of grapes...how you have one big bunch comprised of individual grapes. That is sort of what that particular feces looks like. If i still have the picture on my computer (I am on my tablet right now), and you are interested in this information i can try to send it to you through personal message on this site or post it as a reply in this thread.
Thanks! The vet I talked to mentioned cecotropes and explained its importance to their health. He said they should eat their own when they are big enough and since they were at 3.5 weeks old when the doe died they should be just fine. The bunnies are 3 days shy of 5 weeks old and I'm starting the weening process and acclimating them to the cooler temperatures of our covered shop where we keep the other rabbits. They like to sit on top of one another against the wire and touch fur with our breeding doe who's cage is beside theirs. It's pretty cute, but don't worry there is space to slide a divider between cages when its about time for the doe to have her next litter.
 
Just joined. I have been losing baby bunnies at 10-14 days after they had been fat and very lively. One will be very wet underneath and be dead in about 24 hours. I keep everything very clean and disinfect nest box after each use. I have given them probiotics ay 5,7 and 9 days to try to prevent this. I have treated sick babies with albon, fluids, vit. Any more suggestions or reason this is happening. I feed Oxbow Timothy hay, and freshly milled 18%protien rabbit pellet Blue Seal. Mothers get small amounts of mixed lettuce and a small piece of apple or carrot once a day with 1/4 cup of sunflower seeds and a little kale a few times a week. Adults look very healthy and shiny, not too fat. Help, this is so upsetting to see these sweet babies die after 2 weeks. The weird thing is some in the same litter never get sick.
 
I'm no expert but I would suspect either coccidiosis, or ecoli or both. Kits will pick them up from the doe, and they can kill quickly. Have you tried treating the doe? That might be what I might try. Are they kept on wire? @Bunnylady is the bunny expert, hopefully she can offer some better advice.
 
I'm no expert but I would suspect either coccidiosis, or ecoli or both. Kits will pick them up from the doe, and they can kill quickly. Have you tried treating the doe? That might be what I might try. Are they kept on wire? @Bunnylady is the bunny expert, hopefully she can offer some better advice.
I have treated all my rabbits with 2 rounds of Corrid and. A few mos earlier with a week of Albon. Cages have been sprayed with an animal hosp disinfect, It was recommended to me to add apple cider vinegar to their water, 2-3 ml per large water bottle 32oz. It’s gotten to the point I dread going up to my bunny rooms, they live in climate control, heat, a/c, kept at about 66 in the winter and 74 in the summer. They are on timed full spectrum lights, 14 hour days.
 
I have treated all my rabbits with 2 rounds of Corrid and. A few mos earlier with a week of Albon. Cages have been sprayed with an animal hosp disinfect, It was recommended to me to add apple cider vinegar to their water, 2-3 ml per large water bottle 32oz. It’s gotten to the point I dread going up to my bunny rooms, they live in climate control, heat, a/c, kept at about 66 in the winter and 74 in the summer. They are on timed full spectrum lights, 14 hour days.
Yes they are on wire with nest box. How does one contact Bunnylady?
 
So many variables. First, if you are dealing with coccidiosis you need to sanitize with ammonia instead of bleach and swap corrid for baycox or toltrazuril.

Cut out all veggies/fruits, if you feel that you have to feed fresh, give cilantro/parsley/spinach/dandelion.

Probiotics are good, but if you can retrieve cecatropes from healthy adults, that’s even better.

Good job with giving fluids-be sure you are keeping those bunnies extra warm as subq fluids cause a loss in body temp and they can’t fight to get better and fight to get warm at the same time. Pedialyte or bounce back in their water is a good addition. I couldn’t read through so many posts, but if you are also dealing with anorexia you’ll need to syringe feed, Ive had good results with critical care mixed with applesauce baby food.

If your bunnies have bloated, sloshy bellies with goopy, jelly poop you need to add simethicone drops to the arsenal. 1ml per hour for the first 4 hours and then every 4 hours after that.

For orphaned babies, goat’s milk is better than KMR (which is formulated for carnivores)

First time moms that lose litters aren’t necessarily bad moms, just not well-prepared. We use a 3 strike rule. They have 3 tries to get it right and then are removed from the program if they just don’t catch on.

Good luck.
 

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