3rd case of coccidosis? Will she get better?

chevybelle

In the Brooder
6 Years
Mar 7, 2013
12
0
22
Tennessee
My 4mo Wyandotte seems to have her 3rd case of coccidosis. Is that possible? Will she get better? It seems to come up when it has been rainy. I just treated her with corrid last month and she has been back in the coop for about 2-3 weeks. What else should I try? She's the sweetest girl, I just hate to not know how to help her.
 
My 4mo Wyandotte seems to have her 3rd case of coccidosis. Is that possible? Will she get better? It seems to come up when it has been rainy. I just treated her with corrid last month and she has been back in the coop for about 2-3 weeks. What else should I try? She's the sweetest girl, I just hate to not know how to help her.
Yes it's possible. What was the dosage of the Corid you gave? Have you thought about putting her back on medicated feed after the treatment is over? Are any of the other birds showing symptoms?
 
I gave her the 2tsp per gal dose and changed the water daily for 7 days. They are on medicated feed now. Here is how things have happened. We got 2 barred rocks that were 3mo then added an Americana and 2 australorps when they were about 6wks, and then added 3 wyandottes when they were about 5wks. About 2 wks after putting the wyandottes in the coop in April, 1 of them died either from a cold snap or cocci. Then I noticed 1 of the others drooping so I treated the whole coop with corrid and they recovered and I started the medicated feed then. All was well until the first of June when a wyandotte began drooping again. She died the next day so I pulled the last Wyandotte out and treated her with the 2tsp/gal dose. She has never really grown much since the first bout and that has worried me. So now here we are a few weeks later and she seems ill again. None of the older ones has ever been droopy. The Americana was stretching her neck a lot while eating this evening which I hadn't seen before and don't know what that means.
 
I gave her the 2tsp per gal dose and changed the water daily for 7 days. They are on medicated feed now. Here is how things have happened. We got 2 barred rocks that were 3mo then added an Americana and 2 australorps when they were about 6wks, and then added 3 wyandottes when they were about 5wks. About 2 wks after putting the wyandottes in the coop in April, 1 of them died either from a cold snap or cocci. Then I noticed 1 of the others drooping so I treated the whole coop with corrid and they recovered and I started the medicated feed then. All was well until the first of June when a wyandotte began drooping again. She died the next day so I pulled the last Wyandotte out and treated her with the 2tsp/gal dose. She has never really grown much since the first bout and that has worried me. So now here we are a few weeks later and she seems ill again. None of the older ones has ever been droopy. The Americana was stretching her neck a lot while eating this evening which I hadn't seen before and don't know what that means.
Okay, a couple of things, if you are using the liquid 9.5% Corid the dosage is 1 tsp. per gallon and if the 20% powdered, it is 3/4 of a tsp.. Have you wormed them at all? SafeGuard goat wormer is what I use. 3cc per gallon of water, only drinking water offered to them inside or out. You will want to dose again in 10 days after the initial dosing to get any worms that hatched from eggs.

Where you gave a higher dosage of the Corid, you may want to think about switching to Di-Methox to treat any suspected Coccidiosis at this point. Giving the higher dose of the Corid may have allowed some of the coccidia to get down into the cecum and it is almost impossible to treat with Corid there. The dosing of Di-Methox is 1/4 tsp per gallon for 3 days. Again, only source of water. Follow this treatment up with a good poultry probiotic.
 
A few questions, I had issues until I fixed my coop...

Is there moisture getting in? If so repair roof or sides so is water tight.

Is the coop easily cleanable? If there are any issues with design that hold poop they should be corrected so no place stores
larger amounts of poop.


Is the water fresh daily?

Is water somehow staying in the coop like from a waterer?

Are they fed in bowls or containers or on the ground?

Are they free range or are they in a pen? If in a pen is the pen somehow being cleaned of poop?
 
Okay, a couple of things, if you are using the liquid 9.5% Corid the dosage is 1 tsp. per gallon and if the 20% powdered, it is 3/4 of a tsp..  Have you wormed them at all?  SafeGuard goat wormer is what I use.  3cc per gallon of water, only drinking water offered to them inside or out.  You will want to dose again in 10 days after the initial dosing to get any worms that hatched from eggs.

Where you gave a higher dosage of the Corid, you may want to think about switching to Di-Methox to treat any suspected Coccidiosis at this point.  Giving the higher dose of the Corid may have allowed some of the coccidia to get down into the cecum and it is almost impossible to treat with Corid there.  The dosing of Di-Methox is 1/4 tsp per gallon for 3 days.  Again, only source of water.  Follow this treatment up with a good poultry probiotic. 


I have not wormed them but will get some today. Do I pull the Wyandotte out and treat her with the Di-Methox first and then worm them all when I put her back in the coop? Where do I get the poultry probiotic? You are so helpful!
 
A few questions, I had issues until I fixed my coop...

Is there moisture getting in? If so repair roof or sides so is water tight.

Is the coop easily cleanable? If there are any issues with design that hold poop they should be corrected so no place stores
larger amounts of poop.


Is the water fresh daily?

Is water somehow staying in the coop like from a waterer?

Are they fed in bowls or containers or on the ground?

Are they free range or are they in a pen? If in a pen is the pen somehow being cleaned of poop?


No moisture inside the coop. I do have a poop board under their roost with Sweet PDZ that has poop on it. I clean it out periodically. Other than that, there isn't much poop inside. They have a 10x20 run that is half covered. The covered end, where the feeder and watered are, gets really wet when it rains. After the last one died, we put a rubber stall mat under the feeder and put some sand and shavings in there which helped but doesn't cover the whole ground. I don't really have a way to clean the poop out of the run. Since its part grass and the poop just gets stomped down there and in the covered side.

I don't change water daily, should I? All water and food are outside in the run. The feeder is just the open top kind that is hanging about 5 in off the ground. They do not free range yet and I don't know if they will or not since we have a lot of predators- stray cats, coyotes, and raccoons.
 
I have not wormed them but will get some today. Do I pull the Wyandotte out and treat her with the Di-Methox first and then worm them all when I put her back in the coop? Where do I get the poultry probiotic? You are so helpful!
If the Wyandotte is the only one with the symptoms of the cocci, then yes, but if you even suspect the others have it, then do them all. Tractor Supply carries Sav-A-Chick and another brand of poultry probiotics. Here I use a human probiotic. It's called FloraGen3 and you get it at the pharmacy. You have to ask as it needs to be kept in the fridge. The stuff is fantastic and will work quickly as it has millions of live, active buggies in it, lol. the cost is around 13-15 dollars for a bottle of 30. You won't need them all and it has a good shelf life if kept cold.
No moisture inside the coop. I do have a poop board under their roost with Sweet PDZ that has poop on it. I clean it out periodically. Other than that, there isn't much poop inside. They have a 10x20 run that is half covered. The covered end, where the feeder and watered are, gets really wet when it rains. After the last one died, we put a rubber stall mat under the feeder and put some sand and shavings in there which helped but doesn't cover the whole ground. I don't really have a way to clean the poop out of the run. Since its part grass and the poop just gets stomped down there and in the covered side.

I don't change water daily, should I? All water and food are outside in the run. The feeder is just the open top kind that is hanging about 5 in off the ground. They do not free range yet and I don't know if they will or not since we have a lot of predators- stray cats, coyotes, and raccoons.
Yes the water needs to be changed every 24 hrs. and the container needs to be at least wiped out to remove the bio film. Once a week I wash and soak all of mine in bleach and water and let them dry in the sunshine. That's when we have sun....the sun will break down any remaining bleach that may be left on the comtainers. The feed needs to be checked everyday. If it gets wet, lose it. You'd be asking for trouble with warm temps. if you don't. Mold, bacteria, fungus....it's not a nice way to go. It's painful and attacks the nervous system, paralyzing them so they can't even breathe. Not worth taking a chance.
 
It could be that the water is being contaminated....and it should be changed every day there is also the nipple waterer
And the food cleaned as well any time it gets wet.
I fed mine with the coiccidosis medicated feed and that helped a lot, along with the coop change.
For our coop with run chickens we use wood chips (the free kind from the tree trimming companies) and add some to the bottom to
keep the ground covered and less muddy.
My new chicks have a good coop design that's dry and the roosting areas are separate from
eating areas and they eat medicated feed and have not had the issue.
 
Oh and also if the water is raised off the ground that helps alleviate some of the contamination issues as well. If it sits to close to ground level debris from the ground can get in.
Also for probiotics in a pinch there is always yogurt, buttermilk or kefit and it can be mixed with a little garlic for some extra bamm!
 
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