8x16 woods style coop build

[JackE]

In most every example I looked at and all the instructions I read in the book there was never a mention of an overhang...so there is no overhang...seems like another place for me to have to seal up from drafts and critters.

Looks good. My Woods is still standing, going on 9yrs, and it doesn't have any overhanging eaves either (Outside of the 6" overhang at the front and back walls). Like you, I built it, like it was built in the book. With the exception, of it being 8' wide vs 10'.

 

[cholland]

Looking good. I would be interested in how your monitor beam holds up. I built mine with a doubled up 2x6, really strong. Although the roof isn't very heavy and I don't get more than a couple inches of snow occasionally.

I also didn't do side overhang eves. It was just easier.

 

[scayne62]

I plan to reinforce them with angles when complete. I am not sure I going to have the top monitor window screen open, if not that will be how I do it, if not I will go another route. I have thought about snow load as we can have some dooseys around here.

 

[Howard E]

I'm not a structural engineer, and thus tend to vastly overbuild things, but when you read the book and study the monitor framing, it has to be strong. Woods built his 10' x 16' houses "lightly" and then noticed the middle of the monitor started sagging, so he would go in and prop it up.

The framing of the monitor window has to support the entire weight of the roof. Front and back, where the framing then transfers that weight down to the ground through the side framing under the monitor. So the monitor window framing needs to be pretty stout to survive.

I used a top plate to support the rafters over the monitor, blocking down to a doubled up header of 2 x 4's above the monitor and doubled up 2 x 6's below the monitor. The same side framing that carries the load of the monitor framing, also carries the entire amount of roof snow load, etc. down the the ground. That can't be just a cosmetic framed in opening. It has to be a structural framed in opening.

View attachment 1347856

As this was only an 8' x 12' with a 5/12 slope, I used 2 x 4 rafters. For a larger 10 x 16, I'd move up to 2 x 6's, 2' on center. To lighten the load, you could also use a metal roof with insulation beneath it, as that would be much lighter than any other form of roofing. Takes the heavy load off the roof.

 

[Howard E]

Two more views.....



Somewhere in the bowels of BYC photo files are some photos I took while under construction. During the BYC upgrade, photos were somehow retained in the various threads, but my library of them was lost to me. I can't seem to find the originals.

 

[scayne62]

I'm not a structural engineer, and thus tend to vastly overbuild things, but when you read the book and study the monitor framing, it has to be strong. Woods built his 10' x 16' houses "lightly" and then noticed the middle of the monitor started sagging, so he would go in and prop it up.

The framing of the monitor window has to support the entire weight of the roof. Front and back, where the framing then transfers that weight down to the ground through the side framing under the monitor. So the monitor window framing needs to be pretty stout to survive.

I used a top plate to support the rafters over the monitor, blocking down to a doubled up header of 2 x 4's above the monitor and doubled up 2 x 6's below the monitor. The same side framing that carries the load of the monitor framing, also carries the entire amount of roof snow load, etc. down the the ground. That can't be just a cosmetic framed in opening. It has to be a structural framed in opening.

View attachment 1347856

As this was only an 8' x 12' with a 5/12 slope, I used 2 x 4 rafters. For a larger 10 x 16, I'd move up to 2 x 6's, 2' on center. To lighten the load, you could also use a metal roof with insulation beneath it, as that would be much lighter than any other form of roofing. Takes the heavy load off the roof.

Thank you for your insight and advice. I went home and studied what I had last night. I am going to reinforce all monitor areas with an LVL and double up the upper and possible add or change it out to a double 2x6, the rafters are 2x4 16" on center. I hope to not have to rebuild the roof structure because I made a mistake. I a m no carpenter and did the best I could with the research I did. I am thankful for the members who have chimed in and brought this to my attention before I get it all buttoned up for good.

 

[scayne62]

Little progress. Got the runner roof coating on the floor and the 2 roost bats built along with the poop tray. Still need to build the best boxes and reinforce above and below the upper monitor.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

LVL's carry a lot, extremely rigid and are very expensive. Unless you've got one extra hanging around just beef it up with dimension lumber. Not to mention it's a laminate and they don't do well with moisture. Lack front eve could lead to rain getting on the LVL and the last thing you want is for it to delaminate. Your not talking a lot of weight unless your in a serious snow belt and have no gumption to rake it off the roof.

The real weight is the beam under the window. That's holding the load of beam above window (half roof load) and half the roof load of lower roof. That's the beam you don't want to skimp on. A doubled up 2x6 would be plenty. GLue and screw them together.

Also ensure the beams on outer walls under the studs that carry this beam are adequate. Half the load of beam under upper window is transferred down the studs holding it each side to sill plate. I noted your center building post is not directly under these studs in question. Ensure that outer sill is adequate.

Again, I don't know where you live and what kind of snow loads you get. Woods coop were used in Maine. Big snow. Woods if throwing it together with 2x4's would indeed see a sag of that lower beam.

 

[scayne62]

LVL's carry a lot, extremely rigid and are very expensive. Unless you've got one extra hanging around just beef it up with dimension lumber. Not to mention it's a laminate and they don't do well with moisture. Lack front eve could lead to rain getting on the LVL and the last thing you want is for it to delaminate. Your not talking a lot of weight unless your in a serious snow belt and have no gumption to rake it off the roof.

The real weight is the beam under the window. That's holding the load of beam above window (half roof load) and half the roof load of lower roof. That's the beam you don't want to skimp on. A doubled up 2x6 would be plenty. GLue and screw them together.

Also ensure the beams on outer walls under the studs that carry this beam are adequate. Half the load of beam under upper window is transferred down the studs holding it each side to sill plate. I noted your center building post is not directly under these studs in question. Ensure that outer sill is adequate.

Again, I don't know where you live and what kind of snow loads you get. Woods coop were used in Maine. Big snow. Woods if throwing it together with 2x4's would indeed see a sag of that lower beam.

That is a great point on the lvl. I will just double up the 2x6’s and double up the stuff that carries them. We had a driving rain last night and no rain got in which I was glad to see bride I put the girls in there. Thank you to everyone that has helped and gave advice to me thus far. I am no carpenter and learning as I go. I can see I am going to like it around here more than I already did before.

 

[scayne62]

Thanks to some great advice on here I beefed up the support under the monitor window. The coop is just about ready to be moved into. Here are the latest pics.