A couple brief questions about electric fencing

An electric zapper can be a useful deterrent, if you are willing to take certain risks.

First, check with your insurance company and local housing codes to see if you will be in violation "don't take 'old joes' word for fact". If everything is ok, i would suggest putting one strand 6-9 inches off the ground and the same height above the run. Having the wires tight is needed to keep the fence from grounding out from wind blowing it, plus it will help prevent your birds from becoming entangled in the wires.

The power of the shock should not matter that much in this situation. The sudden "shock feeling" is what deters the animal, not the power of the shock. " much like the feeling of static shock, when you touch someone after walking on carpet". Having a more powerful charger means more risk from fire, grounding birds to death if entangled, human injury from response to shock and a bit higher electric bill.

Always unplug your charger on rainy, snowy, wet, or stormy days when working around the coop. Water conducts electricity, and even a wet part not meant to be charged may become charged. If snow accumulates near the wires, unplug the charger, clear the snow or leave the charger unplugged until the snow is gone.

Post signs that clearly states "electric fence" on all sides of the run. You are responsible for all damages, human, animal, or property in a court of law.

Before anyone posts flaming remarks about my post, i co-own a fence company. I have graduated from the American Fencing Association school and been in business for over 20 years. We are no longer install charged fencing due to insurance regulations or possible lawsuits.

A zapper will not be 100% effective. i would suggest using 1/2 inch hardware cloth buried 4-8 inches in the ground and up 2-3 feet from ground level. You could also enclose the whole run with hardware cloth if funds allow.
 
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Good point, Easy to forget that the laws and conditions are very different one place to the next. Real good idea to check into it.

Wild fires are a rare problem in our area, seldom ever that dry and with the more modern fencer units fire or injury much less an issue.

Laws on fencing are fairly lax up here in this part of Canada and lawsuites not near the same issue either, especially if treaspassing is involved.

Our little plot of rock and clay makes coventional fencing difficult and standard wire fencing prices are very high in comparison. Some applications also, like keeping bears out of my bees pretty much require electric short of mega $$$ of razor wire topped chain link embedded in concrete.
 
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Aim the wire at the 'coons nose height. ALL mammals use their nose to investigate a foreign object with their nose so make it easy for them to come into contact with it. You may also consider baiting the fence initially as this really reinforces the mental impression that must be developed for a fence to be completely effective.

Noses and tongues are highly enervated (lots of nerve endings), moist and sensitive so a shock there is far more effective than on any other part of the body.
 
You will have to experiment coons are persistent. Trim or cut back the trees from the run it will also aid in drying it out after rainstorms. Coons usually will not dig under unless there is an opening already, I put hotwire about 8" from the ground about 1' from the perimeter fence and use the ones made for stock fences they are adequate. Bury some old cyclone fence for a digging barrier or that galvanized concrete wire that looks like heavy duty chicken wire works and is cheap.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like I'll definitely be getting electric fencing for the added security. 5 raccoons came mid day last Saturday and luckily they were spotted and eliminated before they could harm my animals. I've just really been on edge about the whole coon thing ever since... well thanks again!
 

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