A Management Challenge to Reduce Rooster Aggression Directed at Keeper

Below is behavior of a cock that started of simply feed bucket aggressive. The feed bucket aggression was frequent in his cohort (genetics likely not involved) and corrected by most simply by adjusting how feed was applied. This guy was culled from breeding population because he was the most aggressive and has a bad comb. He was also a little light with respect to weight. Thereafter I treated him in much the same manner as birds originally discussed at beginning of thread. When he gave signals of aggression (vocalizations / posturing) I got into his face and even followed him about. When I turned away he would frequently feign an attack until he actually did. At that point he was penned by himself and periodically released so he could go a round with me. Normally scraps where only a couple seconds. no where the duration show in this video. He needed to see movement attack so I moved feet. This video was made late last summer when rooster was already about one year old. (Balance of birds not in view where riled by antics of duck)


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This to test linkage for next video to be uploaded involving same bird.
 
Finally, video!
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My hair turned gray trying to upload it. More band width needed which will be done at work with future efforts. The video currently being uploaded was made using a GoPro that I could get closer to the action. Rooster already getting board with trying to kick my butt but he did make so I can give an accurate assessment for minimum clothing to prevent ouchies. I can handle him in a carhart coat but will recommend using a heavy sweatshirt underneath. You will also be able to note rooster did not direct any attacks at my face. He will likely quite attacking sooner than I like as I stopped getting in his face.
 
This video has me getting down and personal with aggressive rooster. Camera is small and a challenge to keep properly oriented. He orients towards or at a 45 degree angle from me whereever I go. Taunting was minimal and his attacks were similar. Towards end of video I quit moving in response him and and his attacks dropped off relatively quickly. He targeted whatever was moving towards or away from him. He also had it in for my shoes briefly. He seemed confused when I dd not provide movement.


[VIDEO]

Next step I will not respond to him at all. Goal is for him not to attack whether I am moving or not. This effort is useless if he attacks every time I move.
 
Not currently. I have an outer perimeter that is electrified, It is as if some fencing is hot, then predators treat of it as such. If we get a big snow then I will power the inner perimeter as it is easier to clean up. During production season the poultry netting is hot because young birds kept free-range within without additional protection except for their roost. Adults still in pens usually,.


Protection has serious layers to it where none alone gets job done. Outer perimeter of hot-wire, in some location two. Multiple inner perimeters (not inside each) of poultry netting. Pens. Elevated roost. Nest sites away from perimters and under cover. And dogs that can go anywhere they want once the learn their access points. It is the ability to rapidly learn the ever changing access points that has me loving the dogs I use because the learn fast and are very athletic.

Only Great-horned Owls hunt me and they stick to mice. Dogs give chase whenever the owl harasses chickens.
 
Problematic rooster discussed at beginning of thread was dispatched / terminated / killed without any of my suggestions being followed. Primary party also has had aggressive roosters before so carekeeper habits likely the common denominator. What likely made dispatch decision easier was they had a game rooster I gave them as a back up. Bonefeadedness can be a real obstacle as that party will have a lot of roosters become aggressive over time as the human instigation is easy to see.
 
Problematic rooster discussed at beginning of thread was dispatched / terminated / killed without any of my suggestions being followed. Primary party also has had aggressive roosters before so carekeeper habits likely the common denominator. What likely made dispatch decision easier was they had a game rooster I gave them as a back up. Bonefeadedness can be a real obstacle as that party will have a lot of roosters become aggressive over time as the human instigation is easy to see.

I'm never sure how to bring this up to folks who post something like..." What's the best breed of rooster? I've had (insert number and breed of roosters here) and they've all been mean. So, what breed won't be mean?" My mind says this person's roosters may well always become aggressive, due to some behavior on the human's part. It's just hard to describe how to interact with an animal to a person who has no frame of reference besides possibly the family Lab. That's why I so often just advise those folks not to keep roosters, they're just not equipped to interact with them correctly. Hopefully watching your videos might help some folks have better relationships with their roosters.
 
I have 3 roosters with 18 hens currently. After a 3 week vacation, with husband and others caring for the flock, the head rooster has become agressive with us. He's my only rooster that has correct presentation for the breed, so I need to retain him. The lowest of the 3 roosters has someone who wants him, so he will be leaving soon. He's obviously a mongrel halfbreed, but is quite pretty. The secondary rooster was handpicked for mildness, and watching over the hens, by my kids and I, but now that he's matured, we see he's short a point on his comb (one point is split, but didn't fully seperate), so he's not on the list for breeding purposes.

The whole flock, including ducks and guineas, were skittish when we finally managed to get home. I decided the best way to deal with this was to force them to spend time around me. Several days this week, the only way they could get food was to come eat out of my hands. The hens think it's great, and will demand it even when they have food elsewhere. Since the first day, the secondary rooster would wait for the hens to get some, then join them. Even the ducks and guineas will dash in occasionally. Bratticus, the main rooster, would rather go hungry than come get food from me.

He'll run up behind me and flog me when I walk through the run, and I hope not to get too beat up while ignoring him. He'll circle me while I'm standing still, but doesn't usually attack. I typically get at least one good scratch/bruise from him each time he attacks. My youngest child is scared of him now... never was before, but at 6, she's small enough to get really hurt by Bratticus. My 13 year old carries a stick with her, and pushes him away.

I'm hoping by following your advice, I can get Bratticus to settle back down. The catch and hold option is no good for us, as we can never manage to catch him.

The other birds are slowly getting used to me touching them again, through the feeding routine. Some of them will even let me pick them up... not something they used to put up with much.
 
I will be working on mine again today once camera charges back up. He has not been treated since last video so hopefully no back sliding.

Wear proper cloths for this. If he has points to spurs then remove them.

With your kids, try have them not poke birds with sticks or run from the rooster which may be tougher than working with rooster. If rooster goes after a child, instruct child to stand still looking straight ahead and bringing forearms up vertically to protect face. Rooster should break off attack quickly. The walk slowly to carry out whatever was intended to be done. If rooster attacks then resume defensive position. A six year old can do this but odds not good if fear is involved. As a six year old had difficulty but my 3 year old son has no problem and seems to have figured out how not to be a target with my jerk bird.

Avoid actively touching hens in presence of problematic rooster. Most hens give subtle signals they do not like it and he will be inclined respond aggressively.


If he keeps getting behind then let him. Stop and let in calm down for a minute before walking on and stop again if he gets riled. Mine like to see movement as they attack and loose motivation when I freeze.
 

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