Actuator troubles

[Nick1097]

Hello all, I was hoping to pick some brains regarding linear actuators to auto control my coop door.

I tried wiring everything up to my timer using a single DPDT relay, (mind you I am not super keen with electronics, but can solder no problem if I have "A goes to B" kind of instructions.

I used these instructions, but they are somewhat unclear, and none of the pins are labeled 2, 3, 7 or ground.

https://www.actuatorzone.com/blog/helpful-advice-tips/digital-timer-control-of-a-linear-actuator/

Timer and relay aside, I figured I would test the actuator by connecting it directly to power, no timer or relay between them.
The problem is I don't know if my new actuator came DOA, or if I'm missing something, because it doesn't extend, just makes a clicking sound near the motor. This happens when I reverse polarity and connect the black to red wire as well. Just clicking sounds, no movement. (See video clip).

Everything is 12V DC, including my power supply. I thought it may not be getting enough juice, but I really have no idea.

I need to get this done asap, definitely by winter. My girls are in an enclosed run, but I don't want to take any chances. A red tailed hawk already made an attempt at them

Hoping I can get some direction, thank you all for your time!

 

[cavemanrich]

The instructions are good, only the pins are not numbered. (on your relay) I don't have such a relay in possession to tell you which pin does what.If I had it on my bench I could figure it out with not much problem. Try reading instructions that maybe came with relay.
The clicking problem may be as a result of 2 things. Insufficient power in amps. Your power supply may be 12 volt AC rather than DC. All is possible. Try to operate your actuator from power source like your car battery. 100% DC... If it does not operate then, your unit may be mechanically stuck. Do you have a multimeter to check electrical circuits. Without one, it is difficult to check what is supposed to do what.
I can answer questions but they need to be kind of specific.
WISHING YOU BEST....

 

[ScottandSam]

if it it 12v dc and you hooked it to ac I say its fried. cAN YOU POST A PIC OF THE PINS YOU USED TO POWER IT UP?

Scott

 

[ScottandSam]

I assuming here but help us out. The actuator is 2 wire pos and neg. if you are saying that these hooked up are not engaging it could be 2 things. 1st need ample amps and correct volts. it should be labeled on the motor. if you have correct volts and amps and it still does what is in the video it is doa.

Scott

 

[jthornton]

First thing I would do is to test the actuator on a car battery, if it works with a battery then your power supply is the problem. I assume the actuator has two wires and at the end of travel it has limit switches. If no limit switches then it could be bound up and the end of travel. If this is the case you would have to remove the motor and try and get the actuator free to turn.

This is the automagic door I designed for my coop. I've made a few improvements since this video.

JT

 

[Nick1097]

Thanks so much for your suggestions everybody. This really helps. When I get home later this morning I will definitely try the car battery and post more pics of the power supply setup.
I ended up taking the actuator apart out of frustration to see if there were any bad connections and had quite a time putting it back together. Now it doesn't even do the clicking thing that it did before.
So I will see if my power brick is AC or DC And get back to you once I try out the battery idea.
Thanks again.

 

[Nick1097]

So I tried it on the car battery with the engine on and jumpers hooked up to the 2 wires coming form the actuator, and got nothing. I tried reversing the polarity by putting black on red and still nothing.
I tried the same with my lawnmower battery without it running and still nothing happens.
I have a feeling I need to return/replace the actuator and try this out again. Sound about right?
I've also attached photos of the power supply, which is an AC/DC converter and the specs for the actuator.

 

[ScottandSam]

If car battery didn't do it yep it time to send back.
Btw some background 20 years automotive going on 5 in the marine world.
Scott

 

[cavemanrich]

Get new actuator and try on car battery. You do not need to have car running.
I went back and read the link in your original post. here is a sentence from it.
12V power source that can handle at least 5A of current for the linear actuator.
Your power supply is a DC output 12 volt. It may be insufficient in amps. It does say 5 amps, but that is at its top ability. Your actuator is not the same as in the link picture. I tried to see but not able the current requirements on your actuator. It only shows 12VDC. Is there another sticker on back side of actuator showing amp draw???

 

[Nick1097]

The specs on amazon for this actuator says max draw is 4.6 amps. So it could be the power supply.
Then again I tested it on my car battery and nothing happened at all. So it should've moved then, right?
I've already requested a return/exchange to get a new one.
I can get a new power supply as well if you think that might be the issue.