Adding Chicks to the Coop of smaller size

Mybabyblue

In the Brooder
6 Years
May 31, 2013
13
0
22
Battle Ground, WA
We are new to the whole chicken thing, and started with 9 assorted babies that are now 14-10 weeks old. They all get along great and have a new coop and yard. I have since started a 2nd batch of 10 chicks that are 3-6 weeks old. Some of them have all their feathers and I am considering taking them out of the shop and introducing them to the big girls outside. The only fear I have is that the first group are so much bigger then the new batch. Any suggestions on this situation? Should I wait until they are as big as the others. I have a black silkie in the first group that is about the same size and my Russian Orloff in the small group.
 
The larger chicks will likely peck the smaller ones. You actually need two coops so you can separate the chicks by size. Chickens seem to be the worst about pecking. Make sure you feed them Purina Medicated Start and Grow that can be purchased at your local Purina dealer or Tractor Supply. This is a 20 week starter so you can feed it until you are ready to convert your chicks to whatever the others are eating. Be sure to convert them to your other feed before you release them. They will not like it at first but they will learn to eat the new feed in a few days.
 
That is indeed what I am feeding them. I suppose I will keep them where they are until they are bigger. When they are the same size will I have any problems merging them together?
 
That is indeed what I am feeding them. I suppose I will keep them where they are until they are bigger. When they are the same size will I have any problems merging them together?
It depends on the chickens. I have just merged my 2013 pullets with my 2012 hens. It's been 3 weeks and they are still two distince flocks and I have to make sure that the pullets are in the coop at dusk since the hens seem to be blocking them from the high roost and tow of the chicks are becoming rather shy. However actually pecking is pretty minimal and no blood has been drawn.

Anyway... How I mix mine is to let then see each other for a few weeks, then let them mingle during the day and see how it goes. It's easier if they free range and have places to hide.

When I think they are ready to try an overnight I just put the pullets into the coop after the hens are asleep. Hens don't see well in the dark and (the theory is) that they will hear and smell the new chicks and accept them into the flock. If you try this it is important to get out and open the coop first thing in the morning until you know how things are going with the merging. I have been doing this for 3 weeks now, the longest ever, mainly because at 5:45 AM our "low hen" starts squawking at the pullets so loud that I am worried the neighbors will call animal control.

Tonight I tried something different. I got the eight chickens into the run and I let only the new chicks get into the coop then blocked out the hens while the chicks settled in on the roost. When I came back to re open the coop the four hens where all sleeping on the outdoor roost and I put them up on the roost through the clean out door. Only one hen, the one I couldn't put in her usual spot because it was where the chicks had settled, made a fuss at all and they where all back to sleep in a few minutes... We'll see how it goes in the morning.
 
Hi, I'm just about to let my chicks sleep overnight with the big girls, I don't think I will have a problem as they have a 'mum' who has reared them, but my question is how do I feed them growers while the others are on layers, if they all in the same coop? I don't want the adults to eat all the grower food?
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I switch the whole flock to grower (or flock raiser) and provide calcium on the side until all the chickens are laying. Soaking the feed in warn water before you put it out it will increase the available protein so your hens will eat less. You can also reduce the cost by supplementing feed with a mixture of raw sunflower seeds, millet and oats from the bulk bins at your grocer. It's cheaper that bagged "scratch" and higher in protein, I also keep an eye out for "reduced" (active cultured yogurt and buttermilk and ask my grocer for a box of trimmings from the produce department.
 
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Excellent, thanks. And taking them off layers won't reduce their laying? :)
A lack of calcium will not reduce egg production but it will make the shells thinner that is why you need to supplement calcium "on the side". That way your hens will get all the calcium they need from the oyster shells or the crushed egg shells that you provide.
 

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