Adding to our one-chicken flock...

[FlockinAround]

We have a solo 7 month old hen and she's been on her own about 3 weeks now. I found a couple hens locally, one is a 9 month old marans mix and the other is an 11 month old speckled Sussex. I am picking them up on Friday and would love all your tips for how to handle the new additions. I have never dewormed my chicken but have heard doing a round of dewormer when getting new flock members is a good idea? Do I do mite drops on everyone?

I have a large dog crate but do not have a second coop for the newbies to chill in. How long do I have to keep them separate and will the two hens really be ok in a dog crate 24 hours a day? For how long? That sounds wild and not fun!

Here is a pic of our current set up- there is a small coop inside the run, and we open the run in the am so she can free range in the yard a few hours, then put her in the run when we run errands etc- she's usually in the yard for at least 3 hours a day (the 3 legged dog is her current bestie but I bet she'll be excited to have more chicken friends again). Our plan is to build a much bigger coop that will attach on that left side early next year.

Would love some advice from those more experienced than I am. I want to make the transition as easy and healthy as possible for all involved! Thank you so much!

 

[nuthatched]

Hi there,
Keep them quarantined for atleast a month, it is necessary.
Worm with Valbazen,Dosage of Valbazen is 1/2 ml for a standard (5lb) size chicken given orally and repeated in 10 days.
Treat for leg mites with Vaseline and feather parasites with permethrine if you can get it.

 

[RedwoodCoastChick]

Hi, FlockinAround,
Are the Marans and Sussex from the same flock, or coming from different locations? If they aren't already flockmates, you may need to quarantine all 3 from each other.
Agreed, awkward/not fun, but also not fun if diseases or parasites get passed around.

 

[aart]

There are a lot of other things to look for other than worms.
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article


Integration will be very tough in that tiny set up,
but here are some tips about.....

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[NatJ]

I see several people recommending quarantine.
Definitely read about quarantine and consider the matter.

But I would also consider whether it is worth the bother.
The point of quarantine is so you can identify any diseases or parasites the new chickens may have. Then you can either treat the problem before it spreads, or you can kill the new chickens to prevent the spread.

This makes sense when someone has a large existing flock, and is adding a few new chickens. It especially makes sense when the existing flock is very important (breeding, or personal attachment, etc.) and the person cares less about the new ones.

But with a total of only 3 chickens, I am not so sure. If the new chickens have something treatable, the worst scenario is that you have to treat all three of them-- not too much different than treating one or two. And if there is an untreatable problem, would you kill the bird with that problem, before it spreads? If not, then the problem is going to spread anyway.

So I think it is worth considering what you would do in each possible case (no problems, treatable problems, untreatable problems.) Then decide whether quarantine would make any difference.

Having chickens live alone is known to be bad for them. If you would not have any benefit from quarantine, it will be better to have the chickens together sooner. But if you WOULD get major benefits from quarantine, then it might be worth having the chickens live alone for that amount of time.

I am picking them up on Friday and would love all your tips for how to handle the new additions. I have never dewormed my chicken but have heard doing a round of dewormer when getting new flock members is a good idea? Do I do mite drops on everyone?

I do not know for sure about dewormer and mite drops, but those might be a good idea.

I suggest you give each new chicken a physical inspection before you ever leave the seller's place. If you find any major issues, do not buy the chicken and do not bring her home. Some of the articles have good ideas of what things to look for. If you find issues you are willing to treat, you can be making a plan to do that immediately, rather than giving them time to get worse.

I have a large dog crate but do not have a second coop for the newbies to chill in. How long do I have to keep them separate and will the two hens really be ok in a dog crate 24 hours a day? For how long? That sounds wild and not fun!

If you are trying to quarantine them, the new ones will need to stay in the dog crate (or perhaps in separate dog crates, if they come from different places and need quarantining from each other as well.)

During this time, the ones in quarantine need to be away from the existing one (and away from each other, if they came from different places.)

If you are quarantining, that situation could last for a month or so, or perhaps longer if you find some kinds of problems.

I have a large dog crate but do not have a second coop for the newbies to chill in. How long do I have to keep them separate and will the two hens really be ok in a dog crate 24 hours a day? For how long? That sounds wild and not fun!

Here is a pic of our current set up- there is a small coop inside the run, and we open the run in the am so she can free range in the yard a few hours, then put her in the run when we run errands etc- she's usually in the yard for at least 3 hours a day

After quarantine, or if you skip quarantine, you will want to have the chickens where they can see and interact but not yet be together enough to hurt each other. This is a look-no-touch introduction. This period often lasts for a week or two.

For this time, you can have the new ones hang out in the dog crate inside the run, but there are a few other options as well.

--When you let the current hen out to free range in the yard, you can let the new ones loose in the run.

--You could put the current hen in the dog crate, and put the two new ones in the coop & run.

--You could switch off who is in the dog crate.

All of those options can give some relief from being in the small space of the crate, and all of them let the new chickens start to become familiar with the coop & run without being bullied by the current hen (or bullying her.) You do not have to pick just one, but can mix and match who is where at what time, in any way that seems like it will work.

Later, after the new chickens have been with you long enough to know this is "home," you can also let the new ones have a turn free ranging in the backyard.

At some point you will let them all be together, and watch what happens. Sometimes there are big fights and you have to break it up, sometimes one or another will act like bullies and one will be chased into a corner, sometimes everything will go smoothly. Depending on what you see, either they get more look-no-touch time, or they are fine, or you ask for more advice and change something.

 

[FlockinAround]

Hi, FlockinAround,
Are the Marans and Sussex from the same flock, or coming from different locations? If they aren't already flockmates, you may need to quarantine all 3 from each other.
Agreed, awkward/not fun, but also not fun if diseases or parasites get passed around.

they're from the same flock- like I keep the two of them in a dog crate for a month with no outside time? I definitely want to do what's best for all and keep em all healthy, I'm just struggling with the concept. Thank you so much for answering! Much appreciated!

 

[FlockinAround]

I see several people recommending quarantine.
Definitely read about quarantine and consider the matter.

But I would also consider whether it is worth the bother.
The point of quarantine is so you can identify any diseases or parasites the new chickens may have. Then you can either treat the problem before it spreads, or you can kill the new chickens to prevent the spread.

This makes sense when someone has a large existing flock, and is adding a few new chickens. It especially makes sense when the existing flock is very important (breeding, or personal attachment, etc.) and the person cares less about the new ones.

But with a total of only 3 chickens, I am not so sure. If the new chickens have something treatable, the worst scenario is that you have to treat all three of them-- not too much different than treating one or two. And if there is an untreatable problem, would you kill the bird with that problem, before it spreads? If not, then the problem is going to spread anyway.

So I think it is worth considering what you would do in each possible case (no problems, treatable problems, untreatable problems.) Then decide whether quarantine would make any difference.

Having chickens live alone is known to be bad for them. If you would not have any benefit from quarantine, it will be better to have the chickens together sooner. But if you WOULD get major benefits from quarantine, then it might be worth having the chickens live alone for that amount of time.


I do not know for sure about dewormer and mite drops, but those might be a good idea.

I suggest you give each new chicken a physical inspection before you ever leave the seller's place. If you find any major issues, do not buy the chicken and do not bring her home. Some of the articles have good ideas of what things to look for. If you find issues you are willing to treat, you can be making a plan to do that immediately, rather than giving them time to get worse.


If you are trying to quarantine them, the new ones will need to stay in the dog crate (or perhaps in separate dog crates, if they come from different places and need quarantining from each other as well.)

During this time, the ones in quarantine need to be away from the existing one (and away from each other, if they came from different places.)

If you are quarantining, that situation could last for a month or so, or perhaps longer if you find some kinds of problems.



After quarantine, or if you skip quarantine, you will want to have the chickens where they can see and interact but not yet be together enough to hurt each other. This is a look-no-touch introduction. This period often lasts for a week or two.

For thsi time, you can have the new ones hang out in the dog crate inside the run, but there are a few other options as well.

--When you let the current hen out to free range in the yard, you can let the new ones loose in the run.

--You could put the current hen in the dog crate, and put the two new ones in the coop & run.

--You could switch off who is in the dog crate.

All of those options can give some relief from being in the small space of the crate, and all of them let the new chickens start to become familiar with the coop & run without being bullied by the current hen (or bullying her.) You do not have to pick just one, but can mix and match who is where at what time, in any way that seems like it will work.

Later, after the new chickens have been with you long enough to know this is "home," you can also let the new ones have a turn free ranging in the backyard.

At some point you will let them all be together, and watch what happens. Sometimes there are big fights and you have to break it up, sometimes one or another will act like bullies and one will be chased into a corner, sometimes everything will go smoothly. Depending on what you see, either they get more look-no-touch time, or they are fine, or you ask for more advice and change something.

Wow- thank you so much for responding, this is all tremendously helpful and I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge! The two new gals are coming from the same place so they would quarantine together. I was totally considering the validity of quarantine with just 3 hens total for the exact points you raised, but at the same time we lost one to a genetic issue recently and my kids were so sad, which is pushing me to be extra cautious even though it sounds dreadful to have 2 hens in a dog crate for more than 2 weeks- a month. Love the tips you shared for integrating them slowly- I'm absolutely nervous about that part too!!

 

[FlockinAround]

There are a lot of other things to look for other than worms.
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article


Integration will be very tough in that tiny set up,
but here are some tips about.....

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

Thank you for taking the time to write out a helpful reply! I appreciate this so much and will read through the links tonight. I will definitely add more food and water stations and put some more areas to get some alone time like roosts and levels- that's a great idea! Thank you!!

 

[BDutch]

I totally agree with a good inspection before buying. Don’t bring them home if they look bad.
If they look healthy I wouldn’t quarantine the newcomers for a long time. Just a few days to check on worms and other common issues. Because a dog crate is an awful place to be in for a long time..

I wouldn’t deworm or treat unless you brought the chickens home with you and find such issues after buying. Medicines are always a kind of poison and if there is no issue it wint help and unnecessary medicines are never good for your chickens.

Integration is always hard. More space, more feeders and several hiding places do help a lot. Consider making an extra temporary run with panels or a frame with very strong netting (cat netting) to create some extra outdoor space.

Good luck with the newcomers.

 

[Evadig]

it sounds dreadful to have 2 hens in a dog crate for more than 2 weeks- a month

I wouldn’t keep them in there for more than a couple days without letting them out in a pen to scratch .