Advice on beginning breeding chickens, please!

I keep a 4x8 exterior brooder adjacent to my coop. There's a hardware cloth divider so I can allow the floockmates to socialize well before the littles come outside. I would build the shed with a brooder on one side and laying box on the other.

Even in small scale, brooding chicks is a task that is far better when over prepared. Nothing more demoralizing than killing babies because you weren't prepared. I am not a fan of brooding inside bcause my climate allows for a good brooder plate or heat lamp to work in an insulated brooding setup.

Thanks for the tips. I've noticed many plans on here I could try. Thanks!
 
I keep a 4x8 exterior brooder adjacent to my coop. There's a hardware cloth divider so I can allow the floockmates to socialize well before the littles come outside. I would build the shed with a brooder on one side and laying box on the other.

Even in small scale, brooding chicks is a task that is far better when over prepared. Nothing more demoralizing than killing babies because you weren't prepared. I am not a fan of brooding inside bcause my climate allows for a good brooder plate or heat lamp to work in an insulated brooding setup.
Whats The coldest weather you brood in?
 
I keep a 4x8 exterior brooder adjacent to my coop. There's a hardware cloth divider so I can allow the floockmates to socialize well before the littles come outside. I would build the shed with a brooder on one side and laying box on the other.

Even in small scale, brooding chicks is a task that is far better when over prepared. Nothing more demoralizing than killing babies because you weren't prepared. I am not a fan of brooding inside bcause my climate allows for a good brooder plate or heat lamp to work in an insulated brooding setup.
I do have a (fairly vague as yet) plan for the coop. For us, unless the chicks have been raised by a broody, we'd have to be indoors for the first few weeks. We keep a small brooder for that, generally it fits up to about 18-20 chicks. However, we also do have a small outdoor coop, which has a 1.5m run we open up when the chicks get to about 2-3 weeks old. This could be put next to the shed I suppose?

Thanks for the tip about preparation, I will certainly follow it. I have never had to kill a chick - or full grown bird for that matter - and I'm thankful for it.

I will attempt to describe the plans...
Front of Shed:
- Guttering on the top
- The solid wood door will be replaced by one of hardware cloth, with timber on the bottom
- This will be padlocked / other secure lock
Moving to the Left of Shed:
- Guttering along the edge of the roof
- 2 large flaps that can be propped open for ventilation or locked in stormy weather - are covered on the inside with hardware cloth
- The nestbox access flap (or whatever it's called)
- (Possibly this side, possibly on the right) A sliding door to access the run which can be pulled open from outside
Moving on to the Back of Shed:
- Guttering along the top
- Small, permanent ventilation holes, also covered with hardware cloth
And finally, the Right of Shed:
- Guttering along the edge of the roof
- (Possibly this side, possibly on the left) A sliding door to access the run which can be pulled open from outside
Inside:
- Their feeder and drinker will be hanging
- The floor will have a good layer of (probably) sawdust
- The roosts will have a poop-tray underneath

Can you see potential flaws in this? Anything I've missed?
 
Do you mean a sliding barn door type, or more of an interior conventional sliding door?
Barn door type sliding doors would be very difficult to predator proof (no openings larger than 1/2") while conventional sliding doors, in a coop environment, will have issues with the lower track getting full of shavings and chicken poo.
I have a 2'x2' sliding door between two of my coop sections, and the track gets gooey often, and needs scraping out. Okay for this, but not for a big door?!
Mary
 
Do you mean a sliding barn door type, or more of an interior conventional sliding door?
Barn door type sliding doors would be very difficult to predator proof (no openings larger than 1/2") while conventional sliding doors, in a coop environment, will have issues with the lower track getting full of shavings and chicken poo.
I have a 2'x2' sliding door between two of my coop sections, and the track gets gooey often, and needs scraping out. Okay for this, but not for a big door?!
Mary
Sorry, I think I have confused you... It's similar to this, but it's manual, not automatic. Only small. Would this work? Or should I go with something else?
 
I brood down to high twenties. The brooder is insulated to r9 and uses automated control. The twenties weren't sustained for much longer than 48 hrs before it was high 30's. I would think you could insulate more and sustain brooding in positive temps. I just use a plate and have the automated light for when it dips. After a week or so, just ambient light, unless it's very cold (by my standard).

The only issue I ran into with taking chicks off of heat faster is the bunching up casualty. I angle off corners now, so they can suffocate a weak chick in the corner and all is well.
 
I havechicks out in the coop brooder section, with ambient temps down to the 30f's, when they are three weeks old. i have either their brooder plate or heat lamp out there until they don't use it, usually by the time they are about five weeks old.
Mary
 

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