Advise for a first timer! Coop and run

[LittleAppleFarm]

Hello! New member here. It was recommended to me that I post pics of my coop and run on this thread, so that I can get some advice on whether or not it is up to snuff. There was a comment about it being a "tiny coop" in another thread. I bought it from TSC- Producers Pride Sentinel Chicken Coop. It states it can fit up to 6 large birds. I currently have 4 in it and 1 of the hens is a bantam. I do have the coop placed in a large enclosure, roughly 16x18 or 288 square feet. It is fully fenced, has plenty of shade, and the birds have access to the enclosure all day. We are in the process of mulching the ground, but we plan for it to be completely covered.

I live in north East Kansas so it does get hot and humid. Should I add more ventilation to the coop? There are vents in the front and back of the roof- not where the nesting boxes are...

Thank you for reading this and for any advice! I do appreciate it.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Don't go by manufacturer's numbers, go with hard math. What is the sq ft of floor space inside the coop section NOT including nest boxes?

For 4 birds (and I'm calculating for all standards, to make it easier) you want a minimum of 16 sq ft floor space inside the coop, 4 sq ft of ventilation open 24/7, 4 linear ft of roost. More ventilation is desirable in areas that get hot in summer.

What I would suggest is to convert the coop + mini run into all coop. To turn it from 2 small "boxes" (tiny coop above tiny run) into 1 bigger "box" you'll want to remove as much of the inside coop wall as possible, plus the floor. Take out the old roosts too.

Nests might be able to stay as is, or may need to be relocated elsewhere or replaced - depends on the structure of the coop and how things inside stack up once done.

Run a new roost(s) lengthwise or widthwise across the newly open space, depending on how much roost is needed. Ideally you’d like 12” per bird but 10” can suffice in many cases.

Board up some of the external wire walls so that the roost area is protected from winds and rain. Do NOT fully cover up all the wire, you need ventilation and natural light, so at the very least a few inches under the roofline should remain open. If your climate allows for it, you can leave entire walls open with just the mesh, or make it convertible for the season by covering up open walls for winter, and then uncovering for summer.

Example of a modified prefab: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-renovated-prefab-coop.1440258/

 

[LittleAppleFarm]

Thank you so much!!!! It's really frustrating that the manufacturers are so incorrect... I thought I was getting my birds what they needed. I will definitely be looking at reconstructing the coop. Should have just built one from the start....

 

[LittleAppleFarm]

Don't go by manufacturer's numbers, go with hard math. What is the sq ft of floor space inside the coop section NOT including nest boxes?

For 4 birds (and I'm calculating for all standards, to make it easier) you want a minimum of 16 sq ft floor space inside the coop, 4 sq ft of ventilation open 24/7, 4 linear ft of roost. More ventilation is desirable in areas that get hot in summer.

What I would suggest is to convert the coop + mini run into all coop. To turn it from 2 small "boxes" (tiny coop above tiny run) into 1 bigger "box" you'll want to remove as much of the inside coop wall as possible, plus the floor. Take out the old roosts too.

Nests might be able to stay as is, or may need to be relocated elsewhere or replaced - depends on the structure of the coop and how things inside stack up once done.

Run a new roost(s) lengthwise or widthwise across the newly open space, depending on how much roost is needed. Ideally you’d like 12” per bird but 10” can suffice in many cases.

Board up some of the external wire walls so that the roost area is protected from winds and rain. Do NOT fully cover up all the wire, you need ventilation and natural light, so at the very least a few inches under the roofline should remain open. If your climate allows for it, you can leave entire walls open with just the mesh, or make it convertible for the season by covering up open walls for winter, and then uncovering for summer.

Example of a modified prefab: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-renovated-prefab-coop.1440258/

Just looked at the modified prefab. Love that idea!

 

[3KillerBs]

@rosemarythyme was so thorough that she didn't leave me with anything to say.

It really is a shame that the manufacturers fool people this way.

 

[DobieLover]

Hello! New member here. It was recommended to me that I post pics of my coop and run on this thread, so that I can get some advice on whether or not it is up to snuff. There was a comment about it being a "tiny coop" in another thread. I bought it from TSC- Producers Pride Sentinel Chicken Coop. It states it can fit up to 6 large birds. I currently have 4 in it and 1 of the hens is a bantam. I do have the coop placed in a large enclosure, roughly 16x18 or 288 square feet. It is fully fenced, has plenty of shade, and the birds have access to the enclosure all day. We are in the process of mulching the ground, but we plan for it to be completely covered.

I live in north East Kansas so it does get hot and humid. Should I add more ventilation to the coop? There are vents in the front and back of the roof- not where the nesting boxes are...

Thank you for reading this and for any advice! I do appreciate it.

The chicken wire is not predator proof. Just about anything can tear through that.
Is that patio block or stamped concrete for the run floor?
You'll need a lot more run litter to cover the floor with so the poop can cold compost in it. And so the birds have something to scratch around and dust bathe in.