Unfortunately we are already under 6ft of snow in the yard with more to come. The snow never melts away until the end of May so any structure we build must be able to take the snow load and be tall enough not to get buried. I haven't been able to put plants in the ground here until the 2nd week of June and even then. Perhaps I could use the cold frames after the snow melts.I do use 4 sliding glass doors to box around my Tomato plants in the Summer. It really helps to warm them up and block any frost winds.
A cattle panel green house is almost 6' tall, and 8' wide. The cattle panels are 16' x 50", so the length is easiest when planned in 50" increments. They are amazingly stable to snow loads if built appropriately with a ridge pole, and triangular based framing on end walls. I just knocked 18" off the top of mine, prior to the most recent 18" dump of snow. I have no doubt that the thing would have easily survived being totally buried under the snow. If you wanted extra height, you could also build a cinder block base for it. What ever you do for a green house, I strongly recommend that you have a fan system in it. Mine overheats.
You could also work some micro climate systems into your gardening plan, if you have not yet done so: Take advantage of slope. A gentle Southerly slope (North side a bit higher) takes advantage of the warming pattern of the sun. Something as simple as a row of cinder blocks or stones along the north side of the garden would create a warm zone in front of the blocks.
If I had your climate to work with, I think I'd put a permanent wall along the north side of the garden, 2 blocks high. That could be the back bone of some wonderful cold frames. It doesn't matter that they get buried under heavy snow load, if they are appropriately designed. Simply harvest until snow load makes that impractical, and resume harvest when snows start to recede in the spring. A cold frame could be as simple as a cattle panel laid across the top of the blocks and angled down to the soil in front. perhaps some blocks in front as well. Some 2 x 4's for structural support, then cover the whole thing with plastic.
When you plant your tomatoes in their glass boxes, you could add some gallon jugs of water (if you have not already done so) to act as heat sinks. Put some dark dye in the jugs, or even wrap them in black plastic. Or put a couple cups of compost in each jug so you can brew compost tea while also taking advantage of the heat sink.
When I do my hay bale cold frames, I simply put them in a safe area, and mark the area with fence posts. That way if they get totally buried, I'll still know where they are. Then, when the snow starts to melt, those cold frames will be the first to be uncovered (especially if you use metal fence posts) As soon as the sun hits the plants inside they take off growing like mad. If they are watered very well before the ground freezes in the cold frames, they won't need any attention at all until the plants start growing in the early spring. A hay bale cold frame will easily give you 6 extra weeks at each end of the growing season. You could even put some tomato seeds in your cold frame in the fall, under a milk jug with the bottom cut out. Don't plant the seeds until very cold weather, or even a bit of frost in the ground, and you very well may have some wonderful seedlings pop up there in the spring. I've not done this, but have noted that self sowed tomato seedlings often start producing fruit at the same time as my indoor started seedlings do. It would be worth a try!
I'm reading Ruth Stout books.
Ruth Stout got me going on deep mulch gardening many years ago. I never looked back. My gardening style is a combination of BTE, Ruth Stout, and heavily planted wide beds.