Anyone frame their coop walls in garage first?

So you have window and need a frame for it to install it? If I understand correctly. If so,here is the general idea. You want to create a "rough opening" in your wall when you frame the wall that allows for the window (with frame you build around it.....think a box around the perimeter) and a 1/4-1/2" gap. Then, when wall is standing and in place (all walls up and roof on), you put the window "box" into the rough opening you built, shim it level, fasten it with screw or finishing nails from inside of the box you built and into the wall. Hard to explain but easy to do. Probably a google search would help. Here is a pic showing how to build the "box" or frame to accomodate a window "sash"? and you install hinges at the top if you want to have it swing open......hope it helps and I understood your question correctly. The joints of your frame do not need to be fancy, just butt joints, glue and screw but predrill holes for the screws, due to the distance from the end of the board. Make sure it is square and dry fit before gluing to ensure it all is good. Fun project. I have done many.


Yes that is I think what I'm trying to do. I have old window sashes so I just wanted to figure out how to frame the window's rough opening while also having that piece that the window will rest up against when it's in the closed position. I tried google and searched on here - it's been hard to find actual pictures of the framing part. Okay so you're saying the rough opening should be a little bigger than the actual window size? This definitely helps!!! Thank you!

On my coop, that whole upper assembly is one piece, prebuilt with 2X4s in my garage. Now as far as the window frame goes, more or less, Shawn describes the basics. You have your 2X4 frame, after it's built, you have to put some window stops in it, so the window doesn't just flop around when closed. I used 3/4" pine. Made the stops 1 1/2" wide, and nailed them around the inside of the window frame, so when the windows is shut, they rest right up against the stop.
In my coop, to go with the upper windows, I framed up, again using 3/4" pine, two hardware cloth screen windows. They are installed on the inside, also hinged from the top, they open in. They keep out wild birds, and are strong enough to keep out 4-legged preds too.

Yes window stops!! That's the part that I'm having a hard time finding pictures of to see how they are built. Okay so you just used 3/4"x1 1/2" pine strips. Okay so you built your window frame, then did you hinge your window and THEN put the stops in? Or put the stops in first and then the window?

Four feet wide is narrow? That's ok. Just trying to simplify it for you.
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Oh no! Four feet isn't too narrow! I thought you were saying 3 ft :) Then I was imagining that the whole thing would almost be the width of one door. Definitely appreciate your help!!
 
Okay now I'm wondering... since I will be putting up Hardie board siding (already have it - got a steal of a deal) - I'm probably going to have to trim out the windows... should I attach the window sash to the trim like this photo?? Instead of inside to the frame??

 
Yes window stops!! That's the part that I'm having a hard time finding pictures of to see how they are built. Okay so you just used 3/4"x1 1/2" pine strips. Okay so you built your window frame, then did you hinge your window and THEN put the stops in? Or put the stops in first and then the window?

Yes, I built the monitor section/window frame to fit the windows. Then nailed in the stops, so the windows would be flush with the outside.
 
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Okay now I'm wondering... since I will be putting up Hardie board siding (already have it - got a steal of a deal) - I'm probably going to have to trim out the windows... should I attach the window sash to the trim like this photo?? Instead of inside to the frame??

It's easier to do it that way. Otherwise, you will have to chisel in some relief pockets for the hinges.
 
A money saving tip for windows and trim is to buy furring strips instead of real 1x2's, 1x3's, 1x4's etc. Furring strips go for $2 for a 1x4x8' compared to $6 for a pine 1x4x8'. Furring strips are a little smaller than normal lumber, but the cost savings is well worth it. I rough in my windows with 2x4 studs, and then nail 1x2 furring strips around the inside edge which acts as the stop for the window. I use furring strips for all my window, door and corner trim on my coop and shed.
 
A money saving tip for windows and trim is to buy furring strips instead of real 1x2's, 1x3's, 1x4's etc. Furring strips go for $2 for a 1x4x8' compared to $6 for a pine 1x4x8'. Furring strips are a little smaller than normal lumber, but the cost savings is well worth it. I rough in my windows with 2x4 studs, and then nail 1x2 furring strips around the inside edge which acts as the stop for the window. I use furring strips for all my window, door and corner trim on my coop and shed.

That is a REALLY great tip!!! Thank you for posting that!
 
here in ohio its been really cold,
while technically a chicken tractor / coop hybrid, I'm building my entire coop in my garage
then moving it outside...but I do have 8ft high garage doors...
 

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