Approve My Final Coop/Run Design

[AmyJane725]

Ok, after lots of research/help from you guys and way too many attempts at doing this in pen, here are my final plans.

Please let me know if there's anything wrong with them before I give them to the contractor.

 

[DobieLover]

I don't see major problems with it.
I would recommend you use standard framing dimensions for your run and coop. Like 8x6, or 8x8 for the coop to minimize waste in framing material and sheathing. The run could be 18x16.
I would also make sure that you have large eaves and gable end over hangs.
The gable peaks could be left open and covered in HC for good ventilation over the chickens heads. Are your soffit areas going to be left open and covered with HC? I would try to incorporate top hinged windows with HC over the openings on all four sides of the coop for maximum ventilation.
Also make sure that the entire run area is elevated for drainage.

 

[Percheron chick]

Agree that you need to use standard lumber dimensions Will save on material and labor costs. 8x8 gives you basically the same amount of space as a 6x9. Why do you want it off the ground? That large a structure will weigh a considerable amount and need good engineering if it's up on legs. Also 1.5' legs will make it impossible to get underneath it. 6 nesting boxes are excessive. That's enough for 25-40 hens. 3 is plenty. I would want to access the coop directly without having to go into the run. It will also eliminate most of one side of the run saving again more money. If you put it in the corner, now you've eliminated 16' of fencing for the run plus now you can retrieve eggs from outside as well.

 

[AmyJane725]

I would also make sure that you have large eaves and gable end over hangs.
The gable peaks could be left open and covered in HC for good ventilation over the chickens heads. Are your soffit areas going to be left open and covered with HC? I would try to incorporate top hinged windows with HC over the openings on all four sides of the coop for maximum ventilation.
Also make sure that the entire run area is elevated for drainage.

If we say a roof is an upside down "V", the "gable peak" is the point of the V right? Now, I'm truly not trying to be obstinate, I just don't understand. If I leave the point open won't the coop just get all wet inside? It rains all the time here... I saw someone mention about little vents that are on either side of the point, but those get clogged up with snow, and I don't understand how the coop doesn't wind up soaked.

How far past the edge of the structure would you recommend that the eaves/gable end overhangs extend? Is 6 in enough, or would a full foot be better? I'm very sorry, I'm not terribly familiar with construction terms. Can you explain what a "soffit area" is? If you have a picture that would help a lot.

I was planning to have a 9ft x 6in strip of hardware cloth running the length of the coop on both sides (comes out to 4.5 sqft of vent) plus two 2x1 windows (with a shutter of some sort) on each of the long sides of the coop (comes to 8 sqft ventilation). That totals 12.5 sqft, which does exceed the 1 sqft/bird guideline, but some people have a lot more than that. Do you think I'd be doing my birds a disservice by not having more?

How do I elevate the run for drainage? (One of the guys I had come out to look at the spot says the spot is good for drainage because it's kind of raised in the middle, so the water should run away. It looks pretty flat to me, but he's been doing this for decades, so he's probably right.

And yes, I know the area is surrounded by trees. We have lived in my house for 25 years, and nobody does yard work. If any branches fell from the trees they'd still be there, so I'm very confident there's no danger of that.

 

[aart]

Is 6 in enough, or would a full foot be better? I'm very sorry, I'm not terribly familiar with construction terms. Can you explain what a "soffit area" is? If you have a picture that would help a lot.

I'd go a full 12".
Look 'gable fly rafter;.
Best I could find quickly:

 

[Alaskan]

I would want to access the coop directly without having to go into the run. It will also eliminate most of one side of the run saving again more money. If you put it in the corner, now you've eliminated 16' of fencing for the run plus now you can retrieve eggs from outside as well.

X2 on this. You do not want to have to enter the run to get to the coop.

Also x2 on huge eves (12" sounds good) and fewer nestboxes.

As to raising the run... depends on your soil, drainage, and how much you want to spend. If you frame the run area, then inside the frame you can fill with gravel/sand/dirt/whatever and that will make the run higher than the surrounding land so drier.

As to ventilation and rain and snow... if you build a tight structure, and all ventilation is on one side (even if you have a huge open side) wind doesn't blow in. (Well, maybe 3 or 4 inches... but very little) since the wind can't blow THROUGH the structure. Follow?

Another option, since you want half of the run to be roofed (which is an excellent idea, keep the roof nice and sloped so snow and leaves etc.. slide off), you could have the side of the coop that is under the roofed run half or 2/3 wire. So LOTS of ventilation but all of that extra run roof would keep the coop dry no matter how bad the wind blew.

For super hot summer weather, have a window on the opposite side of the mostly open wall that can be opened during hot weather to get the air to move through the coop and cool it off.

 

[AmyJane725]

X2 on this. You do not want to have to enter the run to get to the coop.

Also x2 on huge eves (12" sounds good) and fewer nestboxes.

Another option, since you want half of the run to be roofed (which is an excellent idea, keep the roof nice and sloped so snow and leaves etc.. slide off), you could have the side of the coop that is under the roofed run half or 2/3 wire. So LOTS of ventilation but all of that extra run roof would keep the coop dry no matter how bad the wind blew.

Sorry to sound stupid again, but why is it bad to enter the run to get to the coop? I feel like if the coop is inside the enclosed run it's just extra safe.

Is there any harm in having "too many" nest boxes, or is it just unnecessary?

Ok, 12" eaves it is.

What would you recommend making the sloped part of the roof out of? Corrugated sheet of metal or something?

 

[jolenesdad]

If you are in a hurry, you don’t have to get poop on your shoes.

 

[paneubert]

My only comment is that if you do have the coop access inside the run fence, have your coop door swing towards the left/closer run wall versus swinging towards the open area of your run. The way you have it drawn, opening the coop door will block access to the run with a wheelbarrow, etc.... See what I mean in your drawing? With the door swung open, you would need to walk all the way counterclockwise around the coop to get to the run wall gate/the open area of the run.

Unless the swinging door you drew is not to scale and you could get between the run fence and the open coop door with a wheelbarrow. If so, ignore my entire comment....

 

[Alaskan]

Sorry to sound stupid again, but why is it bad to enter the run to get to the coop? I feel like if the coop is inside the enclosed run it's just extra safe.

Several reasons:
1. The run can become nasty, poopy, or muddy, nice to not have to worry about what shoes you have on
2. Usually direct coop access means it is easier for other people to care for your chickens if you are gone for the weekend
3. The coop outside of the run means no chickens stuck under it, or trying to roost on top of it... so just easier to corral your chickens
4. You can lock the chickens into the run only(so out of the coop), open the coop fully and clean it out etc. without worrying about chickens running off.

Is there any harm in having "too many" nest boxes, or is it just unnecessary?

Nope, not at all. (As in, there is no harm in having too many nestboxes) Just unused nestbox area could be a wire fronted cage area for a broody or chick raising, or a closed up area to store treats and chicken "stuff", or.....

What would you recommend making the sloped part of the roof out of? Corrugated sheet of metal or something?

I like metal roofs since the snow slides off! (I HATE snow maintenance)