Are they eating the dirt?

So I got the brooder plate all set up. I think I like it. My fault for not doing more research into these things, but I was freaking out at first.

I plugged it in and let it heat up, and checked the temp with a temp gun, and it read 121F! I thought no way this was right. So back to Google I went.

After reading up on these things, I found out that seemed normal, so I put it in the brooder and showed the chicks what to do. They got the hang of it quickly, and everyone had a good night.

The brooder has a cooler end now like it should. I will say, this thing is much bigger than I expected. Again, my fault for not reading the dimensions better. But it took away much of their open area in their brooder.

The problem is easily solved for me, because I have access to a larger brooder (old playpen). But it's good to know that this thing measures about 19 inches by 12 inches.

Other than that, it's got 2 options, heater or brooder. So no way to manually control the heat level, but I'm not sure if that's common or not with these, having never used one.

Regardless, my chicks seem content under it, and it's keeping their little corner warm without the heat lamp concerns, so for now, I'm recommending it.

I hope y'all know how much I appreciate the help and the patience! Having chicks is not unlike having a newborn again. Keeping them clean, fed, watered, and safe? Check, check, check, and check. Worry about them nonstop and second-guess all of your decisions? Yep, got it. Y'all have helped a lot, and I am grateful! 🙏🏻
You already got your answer, but 120 is right where you want it.
A typical heat plate doesn't have 2 modes (you just plug and go), and yes, yours is massive! 😂 I use a 10" square in my starter tote, but your chicks will be needing that playpen soon anyway. Plus, it will be good for the larger Orpington chicks.

I understand the constant worry when they're so little. I start to feel a lot better once they reach 2 weeks. Pasty butt's over, they know how to eat and drink, and they're mostly pass that "failure to thrive" danger zone.

Glad the plate worked out, and enjoy your babies!
 
So no way to manually control the heat level, but I'm not sure if that's common or not with these, having never used one.
I've seen other people say theirs have some kind of temperature control, but I have a Brinsea which is generally considered to be a decent brand and that just does on/off. The plate itself is hot enough to the touch that I can pick it up with my fingertips touching the plate directly but it's not very comfortable and I wouldn't want to hold it like that for a long time. Doesn't seem to be an issue for chicks though. I do the same, raising one end so they can choose how close to the plate their backs are (not an issue for you this time but that also helps brand new chicks find their way back underneath when the lower end of the plate is very low and there's only a small gap to get under). If they're hanging out only half under the plate quite a bit of the time then I'll raise it by up to an inch and monitor after that to check they aren't cold. I aim to take mine off heat by 1½-2 weeks max though, so I'm not very generous with it.
 
You already got your answer, but 120 is right where you want it.
A typical heat plate doesn't have 2 modes (you just plug and go), and yes, yours is massive! 😂 I use a 10" square in my starter tote, but your chicks will be needing that playpen soon anyway. Plus, it will be good for the larger Orpington chicks.

I understand the constant worry when they're so little. I start to feel a lot better once they reach 2 weeks. Pasty butt's over, they know how to eat and drink, and they're mostly pass that "failure to thrive" danger zone.

Glad the plate worked out, and enjoy your babies!
Yeah, they're getting their wings figured out, lol. They'll need more room. I'm going to get them into their playpen later today.

Based on when I bought them and when I know TSC here usually gets their chicks in, mine likely hatched on or around the 21st. We're approaching 2 weeks.
 
I've seen other people say theirs have some kind of temperature control, but I have a Brinsea which is generally considered to be a decent brand and that just does on/off. The plate itself is hot enough to the touch that I can pick it up with my fingertips touching the plate directly but it's not very comfortable and I wouldn't want to hold it like that for a long time. Doesn't seem to be an issue for chicks though. I do the same, raising one end so they can choose how close to the plate their backs are (not an issue for you this time but that also helps brand new chicks find their way back underneath when the lower end of the plate is very low and there's only a small gap to get under). If they're hanging out only half under the plate quite a bit of the time then I'll raise it by up to an inch and monitor after that to check they aren't cold. I aim to take mine off heat by 1½-2 weeks max though, so I'm not very generous with it.
This is interesting. So in a room that stays 78 to 80 degrees anyway, they may not need the brooder plate for as long? They're in a guest room that we don't keep the AC on in unless there are actual guests. It's got 2 west-facing windows, so it stays naturally warm. I've got the chicks on the far side where no direct sunlight can shine on them and overheat them.
 
This is interesting. So in a room that stays 78 to 80 degrees anyway, they may not need the brooder plate for as long? They're in a guest room that we don't keep the AC on in unless there are actual guests. It's got 2 west-facing windows, so it stays naturally warm. I've got the chicks on the far side where no direct sunlight can shine on them and overheat them.
All birds are different and a small group of bantam chicks will probably need heat for longer, but you also have warmer indoor temperatures. Getting them off heat and outdoors full-time is a priority for me, so you might not want to bother if it isn't so important for you but here's how I do it:

Raise the heat plate at a faster rate than they're growing. Provide other places to sleep both indoors and during trips outside (e.g. upside-down cardboard box with a door cut in one side and some ventilation holes cut in the other sides close to the "roof", or a pet carrier) and watch to see if they're using those and/or sleeping in a heap out in the open during the day. Box or whatever should be big enough for them to all fit in and move around while they arrange the sleep heap, but not so big that there's loads of extra space around them.

Put the heat plate inside what will be their bed box for a night or two, to teach them to go in there to sleep. At this point the heat plate is raised right up and more of a visual cue than anything - if they seemed too cold like this then I'd lower it and wait before trying again. You could do one night with the heat plate raised but switched on and a second night with it switched off if you were worried (easy to just flick a switch after bedtime if they are too cold the second night).

Remove the heat plate and expect a couple of nights of confusion while they figure it out. Adding a light inside the box can help (I use an old head torch with cable ties where the strap used to be, positioned so I can put my hand through the "door" of their bed box to switch it off - one of those little push-button cupboard lights would probably work well too) but sometimes you need to put them in the box the first few nights.
 
All birds are different and a small group of bantam chicks will probably need heat for longer, but you also have warmer indoor temperatures. Getting them off heat and outdoors full-time is a priority for me, so you might not want to bother if it isn't so important for you but here's how I do it:

Raise the heat plate at a faster rate than they're growing. Provide other places to sleep both indoors and during trips outside (e.g. upside-down cardboard box with a door cut in one side and some ventilation holes cut in the other sides close to the "roof", or a pet carrier) and watch to see if they're using those and/or sleeping in a heap out in the open during the day. Box or whatever should be big enough for them to all fit in and move around while they arrange the sleep heap, but not so big that there's loads of extra space around them.

Put the heat plate inside what will be their bed box for a night or two, to teach them to go in there to sleep. At this point the heat plate is raised right up and more of a visual cue than anything - if they seemed too cold like this then I'd lower it and wait before trying again. You could do one night with the heat plate raised but switched on and a second night with it switched off if you were worried (easy to just flick a switch after bedtime if they are too cold the second night).

Remove the heat plate and expect a couple of nights of confusion while they figure it out. Adding a light inside the box can help (I use an old head torch with cable ties where the strap used to be, positioned so I can put my hand through the "door" of their bed box to switch it off - one of those little push-button cupboard lights would probably work well too) but sometimes you need to put them in the box the first few nights.
Great information, thank you! They did not seem thrilled when I turned the light out in their room last night. I guess they were used to the light the heat lamp put out. They got pretty fussy, and when I turned the light back on, they settled almost immediately.

So I ended up leaving the light on all night, but I know I need to figure out how to wean them off of it, so I'll try some of these tips.
 
Great information, thank you! They did not seem thrilled when I turned the light out in their room last night. I guess they were used to the light the heat lamp put out. They got pretty fussy, and when I turned the light back on, they settled almost immediately.

So I ended up leaving the light on all night, but I know I need to figure out how to wean them off of it, so I'll try some of these tips.
You could give them a small night light, so it's less bright than the room light or a heat lamp but not totally dark.

Maybe leave the night light all night for one or two nights. Then try giving them the night light for just an hour or so, which lets them realize it's "getting dark" and get themselves settled, then have total darkness when you turn it off.

Since they are in a room with windows, another option would be to turn out the room light while the sun is still up, which lets the room get gradually darker when the sun goes down.
 
You could give them a small night light, so it's less bright than the room light or a heat lamp but not totally dark.

Maybe leave the night light all night for one or two nights. Then try giving them the night light for just an hour or so, which lets them realize it's "getting dark" and get themselves settled, then have total darkness when you turn it off.

Since they are in a room with windows, another option would be to turn out the room light while the sun is still up, which lets the room get gradually darker when the sun goes down.
Thank you for the advice. I do have a small night light style lamp that I planned on trying tonight. It's got just a small, dim night light bulb, so I'm hoping it'll be enough light to keep them content, but still dim enough to help them start learning day and night.
 

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