Baby quail deaths?

Chickmathcasualty

In the Brooder
Jul 16, 2023
11
35
38
This is my second round hatching coturnix quail but these babies are from my original quail.
The first baby made it a couple days and then presented with bleeding around the nares and beak, I assumed since it’s in a brooder with regular chicks and button quail chicks that one of the other babies pecked the beak as it stopped bleeding and dried up. I cleaned that up and kept an eye on it and it was ok for a day and then the next day just got really lethargic and was just sleeping and I noticed it kind of breathing through it’s beak so i once again used a warm damp q-tip to clean the nares thinking maybe it had a clot preventing it from breathing properly. This didn’t seem to make a difference and eventually it died. This second baby hatched a couple days later and on it’s first day of life it was perky in the morning but wobbly like babies are and now (evening) it’s unresponsive and keeps opening it’s beak.
I put it back in the incubator to keep it warm and away from the other chicks but I’m quite positive it won’t make it another hour.



Any feedback on what may be causing this? Anything I can do to prevent this in the future?
 
What are you feeding them?
What is the temperature in your brooder? Does it have a warm end and a cool end?
Can you post a picture of your brooder?
Are all of the chicks about the same age? Keeping coturnix and buttons together isn't a good idea.
All chicks are around the same age, being hatched together in the same incubator with some variations in dates as it was a week with several hatches. I do not have a brooder I have one I made myself that I used for my previous quail chicks and I had no deaths. Yes it has a heat lamp on one side and a cool area for them to get out if needed. They have ground up chick starter and water and honestly there’s no reason coturnix and button can’t be together as babies. They don’t fight they all hatched together and the buttons have about 3 days on the coturnix so they are not even a smaller size at this point.
It is not a new heat lamp I have used it many times. Also to note these deaths, one was within 24 hours so it would not have needed food or water yet. The other was several days old and eating/drinking fine.
 
I give all of my button chicks game bird crumbles (finely ground but not powdery) from day 1. As for the temperatures…. I place several digital thermometers around the brooder to monitor. I use heavy cardboard boxes and pads on the bottom (covered with paper towels)…. not saying that’s the best but only my preference. I hatch about a dozen or so at a time, but I still make sure to give them plenty of room to find the most temperate areas they prefer. Also very important…. the water dish needs marbles placed in it, so there’s no chance of a chick aspirating. And, I place the waterer in the “Goldilocks zone”. I also prefer a ceramic heat emitter over a heat lamp. These measures have been successful for me when brooding buttons. Sometimes, you can do everything right but still have losses for a number of reasons. I hope the rest of your chicks do well. 🙂
 
Do you know what the temperatures are at the warm end and the cool end?
Are you feeding them game bird starter or chicken starter?
What does their poop look like?

@007Sean might have more insight than I.
Could be a case of 'brooder pneumonia'? or otherwise known as Aspergillosis.
Chicks are especially prone to the disease, if the incubator or brooders are not cleaned between hatches.

Aspergillus fumigatus is the cause of the disease, although there are other Aspergillus species, A. fumigatus is the major one involved in most cases.

There is no available medication that will alter the course of the disease....only strict sanitation protocols will minimize the outbreaks. Cleaning incubators and brooders, goes a long way in preventing this disease.
 

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