So the sooner the better for the treatment I take it. Usually from first sign of this how long do you have to treat the ailment. I noticed the blood poop about a week ago but just a little bit but this one was large portion. I do give them yogurt at least twice a month if not more. I just gave them some right now will that help? I am not sure when I could buy some of this medication since I don't get paid till the 31st. Is there something I can do as a home remedy for now until I get some?
Yes, if you are dealing with Coccidiosis, the sooner the better as it can become deadly in a short amount of time...especially for young chicks...it essentially is the coccidia, which is actually a protozoa, eating away at the intestines of the chicken causing severe blood loss. Basically chicken dysentery.
That is assuming it IS coccidiosis and not normal lining shed...increased lining shedding can be aggravated by a change in feed or change in weather...and a certain amount is perfectly normal.
If Coccidiosis, I recommend Sulmet in the water, and you can get a bottle of that for around $12 in the feedstores. If not Sulmet, then Corid. You would have to pull eggs for about 2 weeks after last treatment, if my memory serves. EDITED TO ADD: in answer to your question of how long, follow the directions on the label, but typically Sulmet is used for about 1 week. I've not used Corid, but follow the label.
If you simply can't get meds until next week (which I wouldn't recommend if it is coccidiosis on the rise), then you can do some things to try to help and which would be good maintenance/prevention at any rate.
First, clean your coops really well and get rid of all poopy bedding. I would get rid of the cedar shavings as it is definitely toxic to birds. Some have concern with pine shavings, but many farmers use it on their livestock and chickens, and I have used it for years with my flock and have had no problems. Otherwise, you could go to straw or sand as the other poster recommended.
Also make sure your water and feeders are clean. Wash and disinfect them with a chlorox wash, or at least good hot soapy water, rinsed well. Keep ACV in the water as that helps reduce the growth of bacteria and protozoa. Never use ACV in metal water cans as it will erode the protective coating releasing zinc toxins.
If you have
medicated chick starter feed laying around, begin feeding that to all your hens as their sole feed for the next 2 weeks, or until you get Sulmet. While the amprolium in the medicated feed is not a strong anti-coccidial treatment if you have a crisis, it can help if your birds are still eating well, and it can ward off mild infections. I would also put them immediately on ACV in their water, and make it a bit more acidic...like 2 TB in the gallon. It is very important that the ACV has the mother in it, raw, unpasturized. Also add garlic to their chicken feed, in a warm mash, with yogurt daily. What you are trying to do is discourage the protozoa overgrowth and encourage good flora to keep it in check.
All soil has a certain amount of coccidia, it is only when the soil has overgrowth or a chick has no resistance or a chicken has an internal overgrowth that it becomes a problem...this can happen if a new strain has been introduced from a visit to someone else's farm or someone visiting your coop with soil from their farm on their shoes or weather patterns have caused a sudden increase.
That's about all I can say other than read the information linked by other posters and review the poop charts.
Lady of McCamley
