bobwhite roll-out cages

[Bee Creek Quail]

Greetings - I have completed building my grow out cages and have a few questions about layer/breeding cages. I have bobwhite's and will plan on a 1:1 ratio (with @007Sean recommendation) in cages that will be ~ 3' x 2'. My question is around roll-out trays. Many cages I've seen built (all wire or wood/wire...even commercial ones) show the floor on a slant with space for the egg to "roll-out". Having recently lost a few quail due to a rat snake that got into my brooder (in my garage no less!), I am trying to design so that all cages are more predator proof. I found out the dang snake got in through a round hole I drilled at top of brooder for my electrical cords (heaters, light, etc) as previously I thought it squeezed in through the lid. Doh!

Since I read bob's will produce 20-30 eggs/yr (thanks for that @007Sean as well!), is it really worthwhile to build a roll out tray? Much easier than having to open the cage each time, but now I've introduced this gap. Some report their quail have gotten stuck in these rollout sections as well. A fellow in AZ built these which may be best of both worlds. Video link:

Basically, a wooden slat that covers the rollout section....which can be removed when time to retrieve eggs.

I am new to this and I may transition to coturnix as I am doing this primarily for eggs and meat. But this year, it's mainly just overall enjoyment with this hatch of bobwhite's & prefer to stick with this type of quail. Still think an aviary is my long term goal. So, just need cages to be as flexible as possible while providing protection. Anyone have problems with rollout trays or problems with predators getting in to these spaces and if so, how did you manage? Thanks!

 

[007Sean]

Greetings - I have completed building my grow out cages and have a few questions about layer/breeding cages. I have bobwhite's and will plan on a 1:1 ratio (with @007Sean recommendation) in cages that will be ~ 3' x 2'. My question is around roll-out trays. Many cages I've seen built (all wire or wood/wire...even commercial ones) show the floor on a slant with space for the egg to "roll-out". Having recently lost a few quail due to a rat snake that got into my brooder (in my garage no less!), I am trying to design so that all cages are more predator proof. I found out the dang snake got in through a round hole I drilled at top of brooder for my electrical cords (heaters, light, etc) as previously I thought it squeezed in through the lid. Doh!

Since I read bob's will produce 20-30 eggs/yr (thanks for that @007Sean as well!), is it really worthwhile to build a roll out tray? Much easier than having to open the cage each time, but now I've introduced this gap. Some report their quail have gotten stuck in these rollout sections as well. A fellow in AZ built these which may be best of both worlds. Video link:

Basically, a wooden slat that covers the rollout section....which can be removed when time to retrieve eggs.

I am new to this and I may transition to coturnix as I am doing this primarily for eggs and meat. But this year, it's mainly just overall enjoyment with this hatch of bobwhite's & prefer to stick with this type of quail. Still think an aviary is my long term goal. So, just need cages to be as flexible as possible while providing protection. Anyone have problems with rollout trays or problems with predators getting in to these spaces and if so, how did you manage? Thanks!

If I were going to raise quail in cages like that I would have the 'roll out' just like that...no predators can get into the cage that way! That's a well thought out design.
As far as the paint....I use treated lumber and then I use Thompsons Water Seal and then paint two coats of oil base paint, color really doesn't matter, I use Hunter Green. Here's a couple of pics of the cage(s) I built.

I didn't seal underneath the corrugated tin roof, a snake got into the cage and killed several quail, didn't eat them though, I guess it was too small too! Anyway, I seal the gapes after that and have had no problems since with snakes. These cages are just temporary until I can move them to a ground enclosure.

 

[Bee Creek Quail]

Thanks for the pics! I am almost finished with the cages and have the frame up next to do. I didn't know you could use wood sealant before painting on treated wood. That's heavy duty! I plan on using treated lumber & paint, but the wood close by at Lowe's was real wet (like fresh treated). I will stick this out in the sun for a few days before I apply anything to let it dry out. Those cages look good & appreciate the perfect height (no bending down for me!). I will also plan on cutting some lumber to cover up those roll out trays. I'm transitioning now to grower feed (24% protein) as my starter feed is almost gone. Need to get some black sunflower seeds as treats to help with the diet recommendations per @Nabiki. I'll post new thread on some other diet questions I have and the need/benefits for dust bath separately. Thx!

 

[007Sean]

Thanks for the pics! I am almost finished with the cages and have the frame up next to do. I didn't know you could use wood sealant before painting on treated wood. That's heavy duty! I plan on using treated lumber & paint, but the wood close by at Lowe's was real wet (like fresh treated). I will stick this out in the sun for a few days before I apply anything to let it dry out. Those cages look good & appreciate the perfect height (no bending down for me!). I will also plan on cutting some lumber to cover up those roll out trays. I'm transitioning now to grower feed (24% protein) as my starter feed is almost gone. Need to get some black sunflower seeds as treats to help with the diet recommendations per @Nabiki. I'll post new thread on some other diet questions I have and the need/benefits for dust bath separately. Thx!

You have to be careful with wet treated lumber....it will warp really bad if put in the sun to dry out.

 

[Bee Creek Quail]