BREEDING FOR PRODUCTION...EGGS AND OR MEAT.

[DesertChic]

I'm new to the world of actually breeding chickens, so I apologize if this is a novice question, but, if the breeder chooses to do so, is there any reason to not cull any roosters that are too rough on the hens? (I'm only asking on this thread as it's the current topic of discussion)

Obviously they need to have some interest in breeding, as if they don't, there's probably something hormonal going on and they may well be infertile anyways. Besides that and space limitations, I can't think of any reason it would be bad to cull according to desirable behavior (as well as conformation, color, body size, etc)?

I only ask because I am very... intolerant of any rough behavior, and intend to only have two separate areas, so I will not be splitting roosters and hens, anyone who is nasty is just going to get culled, and anyone who doesn't meet what I'm aiming for I'll sell, and I just want to make sure that will work effectively and not backfire.


LOVE the original posters mention of Form vs Function, we have this discussion in the horse world, especially in terms of [only] breeding horses that can actually hold up to the performances we are asking of them.

You've already gotten some great feedback and I don't want to be redundant so I'll only add one thing - maturity. Don't be too hasty in culling a cockerel because he's rough with the hens because the problem may be that he just hasn't figured out how to behave yet. Sometimes a mature and/or assertive hen will teach that boy a lesson right quick, but other times you may just need to keep him separate from the hens for a while until he learns to court them, even through hardware cloth or other materials. I had one cockerel that even at just shy of a year old was a horrendous rapist. I kept him in a separate pen that allowed him to interact with the hens but not touch them. When I let him out he was like a completely different animal and positively doted on the girls, who now surrendered willingly to his advances.

 

[Gorman Farm]

You have more experienced chicken people then me giving you good advice.
For me I will not have an aggressive rooster, although I should say that my chicken program is small scale compared to others on this thread.
That said our chickens are for eating and eggs, and I do enjoy their company as well, so my goals may be a little different than others.
I did cull 2 roosters I bred in the beginning because they were aggressive and one of them nearly killed my favorite hen, she was near death after the attack with a gaping hole in her head. I was able to nurse her back to health. She is still alive at 3 years old although my vet gave me very little chance of saving her. That is a whole other story, what I did was unconventional but it worked.
One of the reasons I like Orpington Roos is that they are very sweet birds, although they can pick some favorite hens and be a little hard on feathers, that is ok, making them have bloody heads or necks is not. attacking people is not. They are perhaps not as protective as some of the other roosters, but my situation is that they are in coops with attached covered outdoor runs, so predation isn't so far an issue. If I were to free range I might want something different. They are sturdy dual purpose birds and some of my hens are like lap dogs, which I love.

 

[katefollot]

Thanks to everyone for the input

I certainly have a lot to think about. My focus when it comes to breeding is more on a friendly, productive individual, rather than being more on color/pattern, of which I have thought a lot about too. Every aspect is important of course, but everyone is going to prioritize differently as we all tend to have slightly different goals. I believe I'll think through mine some more.

 

[3riverschick]

A properly bred Sussex or White Chantecler cock is a courtly bird . gentle with his hens and very doting on them . good with children and adults.
Best,. Karen

 

[holm25]

Thanks to everyone for the input

I certainly have a lot to think about. My focus when it comes to breeding is more on a friendly, productive individual, rather than being more on color/pattern, of which I have thought a lot about too. Every aspect is important of course, but everyone is going to prioritize differently as we all tend to have slightly different goals. I believe I'll think through mine some more.

Find yourself a good Buckeye breeder. Some of the nicest most docile birds I have raised. Roosters are great and none of mine have even bit me. There combs would also hold up where you are being they have peacombs unlike those big single combs.

 

[DesertChic]

@Fire Ant Farm - We performed the de-spurring last night, attempting to use the Dremel. Notice I said "attempting"? I selected Chewey, the calmest and most trusting of my roosters to start with, as he literally runs to my arms to be hugged and snuggled and will allow me to do nearly anything to him without complaint. But when it came to using the Dremel on his spurs he complained profusely. We got part way through the first spur with the Dremel and then ditched the idea, resorting to using pliers instead. The Dremel was definitely cauterizing as it went, and we paused occasionally to keep from burning him too badly, but the process took way too long in my opinion, and poor Chewey was completely freaked out by the process and possibly in pain.

When we switched to the pliers I made sure we had peroxide, blood-stop powder, gauze and vet wrap within easy reach. Each spur took only seconds to remove and less than a minute to treat and wrap. I'm leaving the bandages on for a few days until I know the bleeding stops, and it only took each of the roosters a few minutes to get used to their new "sandals". My hubby and I have decided to stick with the pliers method.

Just my experience.

 

[JanetMarie]

What is anyone's experience of raising guinea fowl for meat? Would like to try another fowl for meat besides chicken.

 

[Turk Raphael]

I'm new to the world of actually breeding chickens, so I apologize if this is a novice question, but, if the breeder chooses to do so, is there any reason to not cull any roosters that are too rough on the hens? (I'm only asking on this thread as it's the current topic of discussion)

Obviously they need to have some interest in breeding, as if they don't, there's probably something hormonal going on and they may well be infertile anyways. Besides that and space limitations, I can't think of any reason it would be bad to cull according to desirable behavior (as well as conformation, color, body size, etc)?

I only ask because I am very... intolerant of any rough behavior, and intend to only have two separate areas, so I will not be splitting roosters and hens, anyone who is nasty is just going to get culled, and anyone who doesn't meet what I'm aiming for I'll sell, and I just want to make sure that will work effectively and not backfire.


LOVE the original posters mention of Form vs Function, we have this discussion in the horse world, especially in terms of [only] breeding horses that can actually hold up to the performances we are asking of them.

This happens to be just the right thread to pose such a question.

 

[Turk Raphael]

@Fire Ant Farm - We performed the de-spurring last night, attempting to use the Dremel. Notice I said "attempting"? I selected Chewey, the calmest and most trusting of my roosters to start with, as he literally runs to my arms to be hugged and snuggled and will allow me to do nearly anything to him without complaint. But when it came to using the Dremel on his spurs he complained profusely. We got part way through the first spur with the Dremel and then ditched the idea, resorting to using pliers instead. The Dremel was definitely cauterizing as it went, and we paused occasionally to keep from burning him too badly, but the process took way too long in my opinion, and poor Chewey was completely freaked out by the process and possibly in pain.

When we switched to the pliers I made sure we had peroxide, blood-stop powder, gauze and vet wrap within easy reach. Each spur took only seconds to remove and less than a minute to treat and wrap. I'm leaving the bandages on for a few days until I know the bleeding stops, and it only took each of the roosters a few minutes to get used to their new "sandals". My hubby and I have decided to stick with the pliers method.

Just my experience.

Should take no more than 25 to 30 seconds per spur.

 

[DesertChic]

Should take no more than 25 to 30 seconds per spur.

I think I need a more powerful Dremel....and I think I need to be the one driving it instead of my husband. He was very tentative.