BREEDING FOR PRODUCTION...EGGS AND OR MEAT.

[JanetMarie]

How come you guys trim spurs? Do you have issues with hens getting cut? The most I would ever do is take a nail file and 1-2 swipes just to take the edge off of them.

Some roosters' long spurs inhibit the way they walk (which is what I have experienced with some of mine). It was suggested to me to start trimming the spurs at a young age, which would be around one year old, when the spurs start to grow, that way little bits are taken off at one time and never allowed to get long. This year I have two cockerels from last year which is how I plan to manage their spur growth.

 

[bnjrob]

How come you guys trim spurs? Do you have issues with hens getting cut? The most I would ever do is take a nail file and 1-2 swipes just to take the edge off of them.

I've got cocks who grow spurs so long that not only do they have a hard time mating, but they can't even roost comfortably because of the way their spurs grow and poke them when they squat down to sleep. I use heavy duty dog nail trimmers to cut their spurs down. Just bought a dog motorized nail file thing to use to help shape the spurs nicer after I cut them down shorter.

 

[Phill98]

Well .......................................... since you asked ................................. and this is going to come as a shock to all of you I'm sure, but my suggestion would be  ....................................... naked necks.  I'm sure you guys are shocked and going  

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

that is shocked that I said it before desertchick!!!  lol

I agree with this all the way. Lol

 

[PD-Riverman]

Well .......................................... since you asked ................................. and this is going to come as a shock to all of you I'm sure, but my suggestion would be ....................................... naked necks. I'm sure you guys are shocked and going

that is shocked that I said it before desertchick!!! lol

I Love my naked necks too!

 

[DesertChic]

Has anyone ever used a dehorner when the roo was still young? I've seen it mentioned, but I'm not sure if it holds up in practice.


Additional question. I think I was lying to myself about not caring so much when it comes to color. I have a confession to make- I'm not a big fan of chocolate/red/solid white/barred. I think I've mildly sabotaged myself by getting really attached to the idea of a BBS flock. I don't particularly mind breeding it in either.


So can anyone shoot some ideas off the top of their heads as to a bird that would fit these criteria: Quiet, generally friendly, good forager, no known breed health issues trends(yolk peritonitis as in the sex links), dual purpose medium size, large egg 4-5 days/week, able to breed without AI, summer and winter hardy (summers max of 101, usual hot day more in the mid 90's. winters min of -2, usually only in the teens at night and birds will be in a coop of course).


I actually don't eat meat, however my mom does and I have animals that would adore home grown food as well, so the size of the bird really isn't that much of an issue (not bantam though obvs), but it would be nice to be able to market them locally as decent dual purpose birds. I know the Australorps have most of those qualities, however I'm not sure about their egg production? I'm not sure if (slightly less fluffy) more production based lines of Orpingtons would be able meet those egg-spectations?

I'm reading and re-reading breed info, but at a certain point, practical experience is much more useful and mine is limited. I really liked the Orpingtons I took care of, but they were not great layers. How horribly ridiculous would it be to pick out a really nice BBS Ex. Leghorn Roo to put with some BBS Orp hens? I'm genuinely curious what fertility rate he would manage.

Yep! I'm another one who must sing the praises of the Naked Necks! I honestly believe they're the best dual-purpose chicken out there. I hatched my first ones because I read they'd be really good in this environment. I've hatched the dozens since then because they're wonderful, amazing birds.

 

[Gorman Farm]

Has anyone ever used a dehorner when the roo was still young? I've seen it mentioned, but I'm not sure if it holds up in practice.


Additional question. I think I was lying to myself about not caring so much when it comes to color. I have a confession to make- I'm not a big fan of chocolate/red/solid white/barred. I think I've mildly sabotaged myself by getting really attached to the idea of a BBS flock. I don't particularly mind breeding it in either.


So can anyone shoot some ideas off the top of their heads as to a bird that would fit these criteria: Quiet, generally friendly, good forager, no known breed health issues trends(yolk peritonitis as in the sex links), dual purpose medium size, large egg 4-5 days/week, able to breed without AI, summer and winter hardy (summers max of 101, usual hot day more in the mid 90's. winters min of -2, usually only in the teens at night and birds will be in a coop of course).


I actually don't eat meat, however my mom does and I have animals that would adore home grown food as well, so the size of the bird really isn't that much of an issue (not bantam though obvs), but it would be nice to be able to market them locally as decent dual purpose birds. I know the Australorps have most of those qualities, however I'm not sure about their egg production? I'm not sure if (slightly less fluffy) more production based lines of Orpingtons would be able meet those egg-spectations?

I'm reading and re-reading breed info, but at a certain point, practical experience is much more useful and mine is limited. I really liked the Orpingtons I took care of, but they were not great layers. How horribly ridiculous would it be to pick out a really nice BBS Ex. Leghorn Roo to put with some BBS Orp hens? I'm genuinely curious what fertility rate he would manage.

I can only speak of my experience with Orpingtons, mine lay well 4-5 eggs per week decent size eggs .None of mine have gone broody so far. Roosters have pleasant personalities. I have also a couple hens that are crosses out of my Buff Roo and my leghorn hen, she is a sturdier hen and a decent layer and not "fluffy feathered" . I also have crosses with my black sex links but they are not laying yet. I have English Orpingtons in the incubator and I will have to wait and see on those. They are different I am told to the American Buff birds I am used to, the eggs I got were smaller than what my Orpingtons produce.

 

[Fire Ant Farm]

@Fire Ant Farm - We performed the de-spurring last night, attempting to use the Dremel. Notice I said "attempting"? I selected Chewey, the calmest and most trusting of my roosters to start with, as he literally runs to my arms to be hugged and snuggled and will allow me to do nearly anything to him without complaint. But when it came to using the Dremel on his spurs he complained profusely. We got part way through the first spur with the Dremel and then ditched the idea, resorting to using pliers instead. The Dremel was definitely cauterizing as it went, and we paused occasionally to keep from burning him too badly, but the process took way too long in my opinion, and poor Chewey was completely freaked out by the process and possibly in pain.

When we switched to the pliers I made sure we had peroxide, blood-stop powder, gauze and vet wrap within easy reach. Each spur took only seconds to remove and less than a minute to treat and wrap. I'm leaving the bandages on for a few days until I know the bleeding stops, and it only took each of the roosters a few minutes to get used to their new "sandals". My hubby and I have decided to stick with the pliers method.

Just my experience.

Thanks - I am DEFINITELY not doing that. (Remember, it's just me on my own.) I'm going to use dog nail clippers and styptic.

How come you guys trim spurs? Do you have issues with hens getting cut? The most I would ever do is take a nail file and 1-2 swipes just to take the edge off of them.

Walking issues when they're too long - and if you wait until they are REALLY long, it's this big ordeal to get them off - would rather back them down bit by bit if I can.

Well .......................................... since you asked ................................. and this is going to come as a shock to all of you I'm sure, but my suggestion would be ....................................... naked necks. I'm sure you guys are shocked and going

that is shocked that I said it before desertchick!!! lol

Gotta agree - as a breed, most are very good natured. That's not to say they can't be jerks (esp. when young and hormonal), but they are good protectors and have not injured anyone yet in my hands. Definitely agree with doing a through-the-screen introduction forcing the boys to court the girls at a distance first. I have always had much better behavior that way when I can swing it.

Quote:
This worked for me with Monkey - a little bleeding but just from the tip and easily controlled. I have very good dog nail clippers left over from when I had greyhounds. I need to do Tank and Snape - theirs are now quite sharp, and I want to get the sharp tips off and not leave them to get too long. Both have a wide stance, so it hasn't been a problem YET (Dumbledore is a smaller bird, so it affected his walking sooner).

- Ant Farm

 

[Turk Raphael]

I see why you guys have to trim. Mine usually naturally blunt them hopping down the cement steps so I never really have issues

Just wait 'til you have a hen literally gutted by a randy cock-bird. It happens far more than people talk about...in fact, one of the best of moderators told my dad about one of her cocks totally eviscerating at least one , perhaps two of her hens. I remember he mentioned it a couple years ago. I don't think she will mind me mentioning her name...@Wynette

She is VERY experienced and if it can happen to her birds, it can happen to anyone's.

EDITED: Almost all my hens are going broody, except for the NNs. A few of them might start next month but I really don't mind.

 

[DesertChic]

I've got cocks who grow spurs so long that not only do they have a hard time mating, but they can't even roost comfortably because of the way their spurs grow and poke them when they squat down to sleep. I use heavy duty dog nail trimmers to cut their spurs down. Just bought a dog motorized nail file thing to use to help shape the spurs nicer after I cut them down shorter.

This is how I plan to deal with my younger cockerels from here on out. I let my older boys just go natural until their spurs were too big because I honestly didn't know any better. Now that I'm older and wiser, routine preventative care seems like the way to go.

 

[DesertChic]

Just wait 'til you have a hen literally gutted by a randy cock-bird. It happens far more than people talk about...in fact, one of the best of moderators told my dad about one of her cocks totally eviscerating at least one , perhaps two of her hens. I remember he mentioned it a couple years ago. I don't think she will mind me mentioning her name...@Wynette

She is VERY experienced and if it can happen to her birds, it can happen to anyone's.

After seeing how badly my NN girl, Misha, was shredded I can totally believe this. Chickens really are marvelous creatures for being able to heal up so well with minimal care, but I really don't want that level of damage to occur in any of my girls again.