Broody Hen - Musical Nests

[Jerisflock]

So, one of my young Ameraucanas has become broody. It's a little early here in Central Illinois, but I thought I would let her go for it. She started with about 7 eggs, because several hens like that spot. I let her keep 3 and marked them with an "x". Each day new eggs were added by other hens but my little girl was still the one sitting, and I removed unmarked eggs. Two days in and a buff rock went broody. So now two on a nest. I let the buff hen keep 3 and I marked them. The next day, a black australorp hen had run the ameraucana out and was sitting on her eggs, the buff rock's nest was taken by the ameraucana. Later that day the australorp abandoned the eggs, but the ameraucana was still setting. She had acquired several new eggs and so I let her keep the original 3 plus 3 more which I marked. Went out the next afternoon and she had abandoned that nest for a new nest and eggs. At that point I took them all away from her. I have a rooster so the eggs are likely fertile. I cracked open all the "x'd" eggs. They all had begun to develop veins and what looked like tiny blips. How should I handle this? Am I offending her by marking the eggs? Why is she letting the other hens lay in her space? Thank you! .

 

[ChickenCanoe]

Marking eggs is the best defense against a protracted hatch - which is never good.
Your situation isn't uncommon, especially with young birds that have never sat before.
IMO, the best thing to do is create new housing for broodies where each has their own apartment with a single nest. Then, no volunteers or the ability to switch nests.

 

[Jerisflock]

Marking eggs is the best defense from a protracted hatch - which is never good.
Your situation isn't uncommon, especially with young birds that have never set before.
IMO, the best thing to do is create new housing for broodies where each has their own apartment. Then, no volunteers or the ability to switch nests.

I was wondering if I would need to do that. Thanks

 

[ChickenCanoe]

Doing so, you can give broodies and chicks their own feed. But I don't like to separate them from the flock for too long. A broody will protect the chicks from all comers and by the time she weans them, they have been accepted as members of the flock.

 

[Jerisflock]

Doing so, you can give broodies and chicks their own feed. But I don't like to separate them from the flock for too long. A broody will protect the chicks from all comers and by the time she weans them, they have been accepted as members of the flock.

I thought my flock would accept the chicks with ease because the flock itself have been a family since day one....at least that was my hope I was concerned a little about feed for the chicks since they would need grower feed not layer. I'm hopeful someone will be broody in March then I will try giving her her own space to get the brood to hatching. For now I'm just going to keep collecting the eggs. Hopefully she'll give it up without having to do the cage thing.

 

[Yardmom]

If you want to keep chicks and laying hens together you can feed an all flock or even a grower feed. Just make sure to put a calcium source such as oyster shells on the side. As far as your young broody hen, it is not uncommon for more dominant hens to push off a broody to lay their egg. If other eggs are around the broody will move to them.

 

[Jerisflock]

If you want to keep chicks and laying hens together you can feed an all flock or even a grower feed. Just make sure to put a calcium source such as oyster shells on the side. As far as your young broody hen, it is not uncommon for more dominant hens to push off a broody to lay their egg. If other eggs are around the broody will move to them.

Thanks! My sweet Wilma is the most outgoing/brave of my girls, but clearly must be a pushover in the nesting department.

 

[aart]

I like to keep broodies in a 4x6' section of the coop separated by a wire wall.
It makes everything easier.
I remove wall about a week after hatch.

feed an all flock or even a grower feed. Just make sure to put a calcium source such as oyster shells on the side.

Yes, this makes everything easier too.

 

[Jerisflock]

Marking eggs is the best defense against a protracted hatch - which is never good.
Your situation isn't uncommon, especially with young birds that have never sat before.
IMO, the best thing to do is create new housing for broodies where each has their own apartment with a single nest. Then, no volunteers or the ability to switch nests.

If you happen on to my latest post, you'll think I'm nuts. After this original post about my young broody, I decided not to let her try to hatch any eggs. I took them out from under her every night. I thought she would get frustrated and give up, but she just kept insisting she would sit. So I finally let her try again. See my newest post "Broody Hen Issues" for more on this. She has been eating and drinking all this time and appears quite healthy.

 

[themotleycoopchic]

If you happen on to my latest post, you'll think I'm nuts. After this original post about my young broody, I decided not to let her try to hatch any eggs. I took them out from under her every night. I thought she would get frustrated and give up, but she just kept insisting she would sit. So I finally let her try again. See my newest post "Broody Hen Issues" for more on this. She has been eating and drinking all this time and appears quite healthy.

Since its chick season you could see if she'd set on fake eggs to test her and then set fertile eggs,, or add day old chicks under her after about 21 days. If she quits, no lose & if not you can put all pullets under her, no chance of roos. I did this with my broody silkie.