Broody Hen Thread!

[Woobsie]

This is my first time getting broodies to hatch out chicks.
I had one go broody and noticed about 2 weeks in someone bullied her off the nest to lay an egg in her box and I think the eggs could have died because when I came back the eggs were somewhat cold. One was cracked and now at around day 21, I think there is a bit of a smell and the eggs may have all died. I want to wait a few more days just to be sure. I have since locked the two broodies into their own area on their original nest, not allowing other hens to come in and disturb them (should have done that from the start but still learning :\ )
I want to swap out the bad eggs for some fresh fertile ones for the broody who got bullied out of her nest that time, but that means another 21 days of her sitting on eggs..is that bad for her health? Can she do that okay?

 

[ChickyChickens]

I think she will be alright but only if she isn't thin and losing weight dramatically!
I had a hen that sat for 2 and a half months without a problem!!!

 

[Woobsie]

Really? Why did she sit for so long?

 

[ChickyChickens]

Well because her first batch of eggs was infertile!
The second batch was eaten by a weasel!
The third batch was also infertile1
LUCKILY the last batch of 19 eggs hatched out perfectly with a ratio of 18 hens and 1 rooster!
I WAS SOO HAPPY FOR HER WHEN SHE WAS FINISHED( SHE LOOKED SO RELIEVED)

 

[fisherlady]

This is my first time getting broodies to hatch out chicks.
I had one go broody and noticed about 2 weeks in someone bullied her off the nest to lay an egg in her box and I think the eggs could have died because when I came back the eggs were somewhat cold. One was cracked and now at around day 21, I think there is a bit of a smell and the eggs may have all died. I want to wait a few more days just to be sure. I have since locked the two broodies into their own area on their original nest, not allowing other hens to come in and disturb them (should have done that from the start but still learning :\ )
I want to swap out the bad eggs for some fresh fertile ones for the broody who got bullied out of her nest that time, but that means another 21 days of her sitting on eggs..is that bad for her health? Can she do that okay?

A hen can often sit for much longer than the 21 days of incubation but as their flock minders we have to be careful that they have their nutrition and environmental needs met to give them their best chance of succeeding with good health.
.. keep their area as quiet or 'drama' free as possible, some hens do fine brooding in a coop environment but some are easier to be pushed off of the nest. Since your broody has been pushed out before then providing her at least a wire barrier would be good.
... provide water and food within easy reach of the broody (this is easier to do if a barrier is in place to prevent other flock members from stealing it). I frequently supplement our broody's feed she may get when she is up for her daily break with a dish of high protein treats... yogurt, cooked fish, crushed cat food or peanuts, hulled sunflower seeds (make sure any nuts are unsalted), cooked scrambled eggs, raisins, oatmeal, tuna, chopped chicken, rinsed canned or frozen veggies, and any fresh veggies she may like. I will usually put 2 choices into her dish, along with a tablespoon or two of chick starter and tuck it into a corner of the broody's nest within easy reach.
... make sure the waterer is secured so it can't be tipped over into the nest, I have one broody in particular who really likes to use a hamster waterer.
... during a long brood you need to pay close attention that the hen doesn't get any parasites, make sure she has a good dust bath area available (I add wood ashes to their favorite spa area and they love it) and that she uses it every few days. The exercise is important and the dusting is needed for overall skin health also. Birds who don't move are more prone to develop pneumonia, so make sure she is up regularly.
.... keep track of weight loss, if she starts to feel bony or her general appearance deteriorates then you need to intervene with more feed and water and a closer check for parasites. If it seems it is just too hard on her then you may have to make a rough decision and break the brood to preserve her health. If that becomes the case then get an alternative incubation method set up so you can pull the eggs and hopefully save them.

 

[Woobsie]

Thank you! this is why I love BYC!

 

[teaganp]

Thank you! I will try it out

 

[ChickyChickens]

A hen can often sit for much longer than the 21 days of incubation but as their flock minders we have to be careful that they have their nutrition and environmental needs met to give them their best chance of succeeding with good health.
.. keep their area as quiet or 'drama' free as possible, some hens do fine brooding in a coop environment but some are easier to be pushed off of the nest. Since your broody has been pushed out before then providing her at least a wire barrier would be good.
... provide water and food within easy reach of the broody (this is easier to do if a barrier is in place to prevent other flock members from stealing it). I frequently supplement our broody's feed she may get when she is up for her daily break with a dish of high protein treats... yogurt, cooked fish, crushed cat food or peanuts, hulled sunflower seeds (make sure any nuts are unsalted), cooked scrambled eggs, raisins, oatmeal, tuna, chopped chicken, rinsed canned or frozen veggies, and any fresh veggies she may like. I will usually put 2 choices into her dish, along with a tablespoon or two of chick starter and tuck it into a corner of the broody's nest within easy reach.
... make sure the waterer is secured so it can't be tipped over into the nest, I have one broody in particular who really likes to use a hamster waterer.
... during a long brood you need to pay close attention that the hen doesn't get any parasites, make sure she has a good dust bath area available (I add wood ashes to their favorite spa area and they love it) and that she uses it every few days. The exercise is important and the dusting is needed for overall skin health also. Birds who don't move are more prone to develop pneumonia, so make sure she is up regularly.
.... keep track of weight loss, if she starts to feel bony or her general appearance deteriorates then you need to intervene with more feed and water and a closer check for parasites. If it seems it is just too hard on her then you may have to make a rough decision and break the brood to preserve her health. If that becomes the case then get an alternative incubation method set up so you can pull the eggs and hopefully save them.

Good info!! It will be used properly!!
Thank you very much!!!

 

[cholmberg]

I've had chickens before, but I've never let a broody sit or hatched eggs. One of my black copper marans went broody and
seemed determined to sit. I do not have a rooster and those golf balls are NOT going to hatch. . .so I bought some fertile
eggs from a friend and now she's happily sitting on a clutch of eggs. She doesn't peck and isn't mean, I have no idea what
to do with her other than just leave her alone and let her do her thing. I figured I'd try to candle them around 8 or 10 days
and see what I see? Although the marans eggs probably won't show a thing, but it's a big clutch and I expect some to
not develop/hatch. What worries me is the nest box she is in is fairly high. At some point should I try to move her? Today
is day two of incubation. She's sitting on a mix of buckeye, polish and blue and BC marans eggs.

 

[fisherlady]

I've had chickens before, but I've never let a broody sit or hatched eggs. One of my black copper marans went broody and
seemed determined to sit. I do not have a rooster and those golf balls are NOT going to hatch. . .so I bought some fertile
eggs from a friend and now she's happily sitting on a clutch of eggs. She doesn't peck and isn't mean, I have no idea what
to do with her other than just leave her alone and let her do her thing. I figured I'd try to candle them around 8 or 10 days
and see what I see? Although the marans eggs probably won't show a thing, but it's a big clutch and I expect some to
not develop/hatch. What worries me is the nest box she is in is fairly high. At some point should I try to move her? Today
is day two of incubation. She's sitting on a mix of buckeye, polish and blue and BC marans eggs.

Congrats on the broody!

You don't have to move her... if she is happy where she is at and the other hens aren't adding to her clutch or bothering her in the nest then let her be.... but you do have to mark all of the intended hatching eggs in case another hen does manage to add to the clutch. I simply draw a line the whole way around the center of the egg so it is visible no matter what position it is in the nest.
Once the eggs hatch you can move the broody to a floor nest... if you are worried that the chicks could fall out of the nest then make a simple frame of wood and cover it with hardware cloth that you can fasten over the front of the box for hatch day. you could also create a 'veranda' in front of her nest box, with a 'railing' of chicken wire or hardware cloth which will allow the chicks to roam a little while late hatchers are coming and still be safe. Mama should be fine to move though on day two, and unhatched eggs can move with her. Keep food and water near the nest to allow the earliest hatchers to eat or drink without mama having to get up from the nest. Even without food and water they will be fine for a couple of days though, since the chicks don't really need it for the first 3 days.

I candle between day 7 and 10. I am not a good candler, and I only look to confirm developing vs clears. By day 10 the clears are obvious and can be removed to make more room in the nest. I will often candle again on day 18 or so to remove any quitters or 'sloshy' eggs. Again, it isn't necessary... but I like making as much room as possible in the nest.