Broody Hen Thread!

Can you put a dishpan or tote or something under the bedding in the nest she's in now, let her sit another day or so then move the whole thing?

Then she can settle into the new tote in the same spot before you move it....sizing might not work....just brain storming.

Yeah, that is what I was thinking and sizing is an issue. I think the nest box is 15"x15". I'm going to Walmart with a tape measure in a little bit. Just went out to check and mark the eggs under her. I'm a little puzzled. There was still a barred rock in the same nest box with her. I assumed it was a different one since its been about 2 1/2 hrs since I was out earlier (those BRs all look alike) I took out the BR and put her in another nest after collecting all the other nest's eggs and checked under Anastasia only to find 2 eggs. My daughter only collected 9 eggs yesterday so I figured as of last night she would have been sitting on 3-5. Then the BRs were in there with her, I assumed to lay. But there were only 2 eggs. Anyway, I marked them. And we'll see how she does.
 
I would say after a week or 10 days.  Each hen is different.

I was hoping to get her moved and settled and maybe put a few of the eggs I have in the incubator under her that are due to hatch 2 weeks from today. Then if she did well as they hatched maybe I could graft the rest that hatch in the incubator. I may just give up on that idea altogether. Just let her sit on the 2 eggs I marked and remove the others that get laid. Play it by ear. I went ahead and bought the coop from Facebook that I can use as a grow out pen for the chicks I have in the brooder. I have Black Java eggs in the incubator and they are supposed to be good broodies. We'll see.
 
In answer to the specific question...it is usually best to move the hen only at night to your preferred location as hens adapt better to the new area if introduced at night. This works best if you can move both nest box insert and hen at the same time as many hens attach to the EXACT nest they first set brood in. Some will refuse to move at all, pacing frantically until they return to the original location. This is not desired if their original location was causing problems. Once moved, the hen then is to remain in the preferred location for the duration of that brood and hatch.

As to what I am doing personally, since you asked for an overview....

I keep specific hens for broody purposes because, having burned down a coop with a heat lamp attempting to keep young pullets warm, I only hatch or foster with brooding hens (no lamps). Since I have proceeded down this path, I have found that the natural method is a superior method as I have experienced that it produces stronger and more vigorous chicks, more easily integrated into the environment and flock than the artificial heat lamp method.

To be able to regularly brood naturally, I have purposely sought out and purchased strong brooding hens, of the "annoyingly frequent brooding" types, and keep a "stable" of them 24/7 in a designated brooding hutch with attached run. That way when one enters into one of their frequent broods, I am prepared and already set up. 

I currently have 1 bantam Silkie, a proven brooding queen, and 2 bantam Cochins  who are young pullets "in training" (of a breed and from a particular line known for excellent brooding). Having these brooding queens in a designated brooding hutch/run keeps them safe from the constant hazing I experienced with my bantams from the large fowl flock (as they are inevitably on the lowest pecking order being smaller bantams). As stated, it also allows me to be in instant preparation for when one of these ladies sets into a good brood as they will do so within one of the 2 nests I have in that brooding hutch, ie they are already where they should be, isolated and safe, with ideal nests, for proper setting of eggs. That way I do not risk having a hen refuse to move (and abandon eggs), and I have them well settled by the time any expensive eggs arrive.

I have grown into this set up over the years for numerous reasons...I have had very poor results with communal brooding, which for me resulted in lost of valuable eggs (I purchase specialty breeds to hatch at $). In the communal nest, it was always the fertile eggs that got kicked out and stomped and broken. Or these eggs were the ones on the fringe of the hen and getting cold as she attempted to sit on an ever growing mountain of clutch.

I also have hawk predators that love a quick snack on little chicken nuggets (aka young chicks and pullets), so I cannot afford to have my valuable chicks being picked off in free range, nor my most valuable broody bantams (I lost my absolute favorite brooding queen this last fall when I succumbed to a gorgeous day and let her out with overgrown youngsters...the Coooper's Hawk picked her off that afternoon.). For those of us who make a regular habit of brooding, you soon realize just how valuable a true brooding queen and mother is...they do not come easily and you feel their loss keenly as you can almost plan your hatching program with some certainty with them in mind.

As to what I mean by "volunteer"....
If I have a "volunteer" from the main flock, that means a large fowl bird not known for being broody has suddenly surprised me with a volunteer brood. (I have actually had good success with several of these gals once I established they are serious). They, due to their location, set up shop in the main coops, taking up 1 of the 4 nests I have open to them..which usually clogs up traffic since they inevitably choose the "golden nest box"....the one and only box any of them will lay in that week (it changes from time to time for no apparent reason). As I keep an average of 14 laying hens at any given time, that is a lot of traffic going through.This caused quite the pile up in the nest box and the mishaps with the eggs mentioned above, Further I saw lesser dominant hens pushed out of the nest as they wearied of the dog pile. I also witnessed that the dog pile follows them...it is chicken nature...if a hen is sitting there, it MUST be a good place to lay. So the less assertive hen gets pushed around from nest to nest with valuable eggs left in the wake and the hen fretful and unsettled.

I also have eggs that I sell and can't afford to let them get kicked around in the dog pile either. Plus the additional squawking and shuffling of unhappy hens. In general, one hormonal and broody hen, clogging up the nest boxes produced havoc all around.

I ended all that by building a designated brooding hutch. Now I no longer attempt to do any brooding in the main coop. After determining a "volunteer" is truly serious, by her setting up shop for a couple of days. I move her at night into one of the open brooding hutch nests. Once (and if) she settles there, I then place fertile eggs under her for hatching in the brooding hutch. I have removable partitions which I can place within the hutch to subdivide off hens from each other so that they are not disturbed if I have an LF hen among my banties. I haven't had any real volunteers of late (the last year), so I am likely only going to use my faithful banties, which is perfectly fine with me as I prefer my big girls laying nice eggs for my family and for my customers.

But that's what works for me with my conditions and goals. Communal brooding is possible with the right flock chemistry and set up, especially with smaller flocks...although @fisherlady
 has had great success with communal brooding in a larger flock situation...but she has set up designated areas of retreat and has worked hard to build the right kind of chemistry in her flock to be able to do that. Some are able to do it right off because they were lucky that the flock was right and it worked. Others have had disasters brought on by typical chicken behavior.

Each flock owner must assess their flock and conditions and do what is best for them.

Good luck on your broody project. Keep us posted.

LofMc


Thanks so much! Could you post a pic of your brooding area? I'm wondering how well I can integrate my brooding area and grower pen together.
 
I was out at the coop this morning and didn't see my broody girl at first. That is because a barred rock was sitting on her in the nest box! Aarrrg! She was giving the BR good pecks though. It is the fav nest box. Guess she is to be moved. So, I'm planning in my head how to build an inexpensive little coop that I can just set her nest in with a little run for her and the babies. I happen to look at Facebook and someone locally just advertised that very thing for sale at a decent price and will deliver. So all that is left now is to figure out how to lift her out in the dark. I think I may try to make or buy a box that is about the same size as the nestbox. Then in the dark take her out and put the box and straw and eggs back in. Put her back. If she sticks I can just lift everything out on another night. Does that sound workable?
I think that is an excellent idea...but go slow in stages...let her settle for a least 3 days before attempting a move and only if she is stuck like glue in the new insert. I also recommend that the insert be very low in nature, not more than an inch to inch and half lip. She likely won't notice it much then. And put back her identical nesting material she is already sitting on. If done quickly at night, she will likely resettle very quickly into her old nest material, same eggs, simple low insert. Wait for at least 3 days...if she is stuck like glue...then attempt the whole move at night. Wherever she goes to should be the same general inside feel as the old nesting area, then you should get away with it.

My thoughts.

LofMc
 
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Thanks so much! Could you post a pic of your brooding area? I'm wondering how well I can integrate my brooding area and grower pen together.


Here is my brooding coop and run (I have a better tarp extension now to keep half the run free of our Oregon rain).



Sorry it's messy...bad photo day actually with all the cleaning I was doing but we were making plans for extending the tarp system (which we've done). It's hard to see, but the top is completely covered with hawk netting so that my precious babies and broodies are not hawk snack. I have a Cooper's Hawk that will sit on the corner post while momma screams her disgust below.


This is one end box with nest insert...you can see the breezeway with the ramps down to the right, then the final 2nd nest box at the end. The whole thing is made out of 2 old packing crates faced with left over plywood to enclose, all from the company my husband works at...they used to be used to haul company supplies for trade shows. (Free is a good price). I have a screen partition and wood inserts that will allow me to create 2 equal halves with partial breezeway for exercise area or even 3 separate small brood nests...or 2 end brood nests closed off, allowing exercise time for the hen, and the center portion with ramp for grow outs or non-broodies. I can close the screen doors in front with very small chicks, then open when they've feathered enough to fly down and up...about 1 to 2 weeks depending upon weather. I have also placed an old airline dog crate below for use when I have the top filled with broody and just hatched chicks too young to master the ramps so that the grow outs and non-broody hens can be cozy. At about 1 to 2 weeks of age, depending upon weather and circumstances, I open everything up and everybody integrates. The main flock watches everything through the grow out fence line which helps with final integration when the grow outs are ready...I tend to integrate older around 10 to 12 weeks, at least teen age size, so that the chicks are not overly hazed as I never let my bantams out any more having lost my most valuable bantam to a hawk.

You can see the clean feed bags cut up for liners...the best trick I ever thought up...it makes clean up so easy and keeps the wood floor much cleaner and freer from build up that can harbor coccidia and other diseases. You just pull the dirty litter out like a tray with the liner or roll it up like a burrito.

And in case you are interested, at the other end of the yard (I'm on 1/3 of an acre)...my main coops:...of course the left one is still getting some remodeling...hopefully this summer will be as big as the right coop. And not showing, I have an isolation area on sand under a metal awning that is simply dog cage on plastic liner for easy clean up. I never use my broody hutch for ill birds or isolation as that could contaminate my nursery!
 
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Lady Of McCamley

It does feel Good to see people taking Our advice on moving these broodies---doesn't it? (n3kms this time)

I wanted to post a picture of my "Hatching Pen". Nothing fancy----several hundred chicks have been hatched in it since built. Its divided into 4 sections and the covers over the nesting boxes are hinged where I can set the whole nest into them. Tin top---1/2" hardware cloth around the sides, 2x4" wire on the bottom. It has pull out doors so I can let a hen/chicks use 1 or 2 or 3 or all 4 sections if there is no other broody hens in the other sectons. It is also movable.
 
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Here is my brooding coop and run (I have a better tarp extension now to keep half the run free of our Oregon rain).



Sorry it's messy...bad photo day actually with all the cleaning I was doing but we were making plans for extending the tarp system (which we've done). It's hard to see, but the top is completely covered with hawk netting so that my precious babies and broodies are not hawk snack. I have a Cooper's Hawk that will sit on the corner post while momma screams her disgust below.


This is one end box with nest insert...you can see the breezeway with the ramps down to the right, then the final 2nd nest box at the end. The whole thing is made out of 2 old packing crates faced with left over plywood to enclose, all from the company my husband works at...they used to be used to haul company supplies for trade shows. (Free is a good price). I have a screen partition and wood inserts that will allow me to create 2 equal halves with partial breezeway for exercise area or even 3 separate small brood nests...or 2 end brood nests closed off, allowing exercise time for the hen, and the center portion with ramp for grow outs or non-broodies. I can close the screen doors in front with very small chicks, then open when they've feathered enough to fly down and up...about 1 to 2 weeks depending upon weather. I have also placed an old airline dog crate below for use when I have the top filled with broody and just hatched chicks too young to master the ramps so that the grow outs and non-broody hens can be cozy. At about 1 to 2 weeks of age, depending upon weather and circumstances, I open everything up and everybody integrates. The main flock watches everything through the grow out fence line which helps with final integration when the grow outs are ready...I tend to integrate older around 10 to 12 weeks, at least teen age size, so that the chicks are not overly hazed as I never let my bantams out any more having lost my most valuable bantam to a hawk.

You can see the clean feed bags cut up for liners...the best trick I ever thought up...it makes clean up so easy and keeps the wood floor much cleaner and freer from build up that can harbor coccidia and other diseases. You just pull the dirty litter out like a tray with the liner or roll it up like a burrito.

And in case you are interested, at the other end of the yard (I'm on 1/3 of an acre)...my main coops:...of course the left one is still getting some remodeling...hopefully this summer will be as big as the right coop. And not showing, I have an isolation area on sand under a metal awning that is simply dog cage on plastic liner for easy clean up. I never use my broody hutch for ill birds or isolation as that could contaminate my nursery!

I really like your set up, and the separate quarantine area. Using the cut bags as liners is just perfect!
 
Lady Of McCamley

It does feel Good to see people taking Our advice on moving these broodies---doesn't it? (n3kms this time)

I wanted to post a picture of my "Hatching Pen". Nothing fancy----several hundred chicks have been hatched in it since built. Its divided into 4 sections and the covers over the nesting boxes are hinged where I can set the whole nest into them. Tin top---1/2" hardware cloth around the sides, 2x4" wire on the bottom. It has pull out doors so I can let a hen/chicks use 1 or 2 or 3 or all 4 sections if there is no other broody hens in the other sectons. It is also movable.

I love the simplicity and the adjustability...I find that essential too! Great set up.
LofMc
 
I went out this morning to finally get some pics of my newest hatches...or rather 1 sole hatchling, the Isbar/Marans OE...really taking after the Marans side in color and shape...I do hope so as that comb shows very female at this point...this line of Marans telecasts very early for the boys with comb so hopefully I'm seeing a girl here...and lovely olive eggs to come!
fl.gif


The two barred chicks are feedstore California Greys that are being fostered, and grafted in flawlessly with this banty. Finally an easy graft! One chick developed a protruding vent after pasty butt (from feed store), but it seems to be outgrowing it just fine.




And since I was out, I took a photo of the extended tarp system...definitely looks boot camp-ish, but the camo tarp was on great sale that day...what can I say...free and cheap is what my birds get, put together with some clever know how by my husband and son to make for a really nice set up. You can see my screen partition below that I use as a main divider to create two equal halves...and one of the wood partitions for an end piece to create an isolation box for one nest side...I only do that for a couple of days at onset if others are bothering the newly brooding girl and at lock down to ensure no disturbances.




Of course when I was standing to take the photo, all the hens came running to my feet and the cute little run scene was immediately interrupted as momma took the babies up into the coop, away from all those noisy girls.
tongue.png


LofMc
 

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