Broody silkie

Fcarter

Songster
6 Years
Apr 11, 2017
183
133
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I noticed today that one of my silkie hens is sittng on 2 eggs. I have never incubated eggs before or had a hen hatch eggs herself and didnt really want to until spring. If I let her hatch these eggs how will I need to proceed once they are hatched? Should I move her into another area when they hatch? She shares a pen with 1 rooster and 1 hen. The weather will still be somewhat cold when they hatch. Is that too cold for them yo be outside if they are with the mom? If I move them in what happens to the mom? Does she go with them? Can someone walk me through this process please?
Thanks
 
Lots of good questions about brooding. I have gone solely to broody hatching for the last 7 years using a variety of hens, including Silkies, because of the ease and success. I've hatched in designated broody hutches and in the main flock (depends on hen, depends on flock).

The answers depend a lot on your set up and a lot on your broody's temperament and your flock's temperament.

First, her location. If she is safe and out of foot traffic of the other 2, and her nest is safe, and the other 2 are calm tempered, she can stay where she is to hatch. Troubles only come if the other hen(s) try to lay eggs in the nest disturbing her and the eggs (pushing her or the eggs out) or they want to sit and roost with her in the nest (typically they will sleep on the roost at night). If she stays in the main coop, you should use a felt pen to mark the eggs in case a new one is laid. I mark them with the date set since I tend to forget. All eggs should be set at the same time so the hatches are not staggered (it throws the hen off if some chicks hatch while others are still developing...typically she abandons those not yet hatched or stays and ignores those hatched).

Note when she began to sit on the eggs to anticipate chicks in about 21 days. She will sit faithfully 24x7 for 3 weeks (give or take a day) getting up only to eat, drink, and poo generally for 20 minutes once a day. She should be able to get easily to food and water to do so, and she should be able to get back to her nest easily without confusing where it is. (If any of that goes awry, she needs a separate brooding crate with bedding and with food, water close by, but not tippable into the nest, and a little area to poo).

It is often desirable to "candle" the eggs about 7 days after setting and again at 14 days to make sure they are developing. You have plenty of time to reset eggs as most hens will brood up to 5 weeks, especially Silkies, or until they get chicks. Obviously you don't want her to brood too long, as she can lose a lot of weight during the process, so checking at day 5 or 7 will give you an idea if they are growing chicks. You'll see a roadmap of veins. Just use a strong LED flashlight, shine up through the "fat" end of the egg while holding in one hand, in a dark area. You can candle again at day 14 just to make sure. By then you often get a dark blob on one end with some veins outreaching. Do not disturb nest from day 18 to 21 as that is "lock down" when the chicks get into position for hatching.

Once the chicks hatch, they stay with mom. Troubles only arise if your run has gaps or holes that chicks can strand themselves away from mom with a "stupid chick trick." ...Or if the other chickens cause problems and attack the chicks (most mellow flocks are fine with the chicks, and mom is very protective). My rooster is very protective of the chicks as well. The other hens simply ignore them. But you will have to be watchful until you observe how the others are doing with the chicks. Silkies generally make great moms and can be something of a diva with their chicks.

As to weather. I've hatched in all seasons, including dead of winter (stubborn Silkies...ice-snow storm middle of January, in low 20's, wind chill in low teens). Amazingly the little chicks do fine as long as they are out of direct weather (covered run, enclosed hutch). They run around in their little down jackets using momma as a warming hutch when needed. No heat other than momma is needed. Mom will sit with the chicks tucked under her for the first 2 days after hatch (they have enough food source from the absorbed yolk as they dry and gain strength), then she will lead them to food and water. Make sure that all are on the chick crumble and the water set up is such that a chick cannot get to it and drown (normal waterers with the gravity flow into a shallow bottom pan are fine, dog bowls are not, water nipples can be problematic depending on chick). Problems only arise if chicks can't make it up the ramp to the main coop. Momma will take up residence in the run, or wherever, not always an ideal safe place. I have a side coop that I use for more timid brooders that is large enough for momma and chicks the first week or two and the chicks don't have to navigate the ramp until they can fly (about 2 weeks).

If main run is not ideal for chicks, but coop is fine for hatching, momma will follow chicks happily anywhere after they hatch. Wait until they dry off and are fluffy before moving them with momma to your desired location. Moving momma with eggs is trickier. Some hens bond to the EXACT location they started the brood and will reject any other nest. Some hens will plop down on eggs wherever. If you do try to move with eggs, stand by and see if the hen is happy, check an hour later. I've had hens reject moves altogether to return to their first nest. It's generally better to settle a broody hen on a desired nest first, then give her eggs, rather than try to move her after she has settled on eggs.

That should get you started. Feel free to ask other questions if needed.

Lady of McCamley
 
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Lots of good questions about brooding. I have gone solely to broody hatching for the last 7 years using a variety of hens, including Silkies, because of the ease and success. I've hatched in designated broody hutches and in the main flock (depends on hen, depends on flock).

The answers depend a lot on your set up and a lot on your broody's temperament and your flock's temperament.

First, her location. If she is safe and out of foot traffic of the other 2, and her nest is safe, and the other 2 are calm tempered, she can stay where she is to hatch. Troubles only come if the other hen(s) try to lay eggs in the nest disturbing her and the eggs (pushing her or the eggs out) or they want to sit and roost with her in the nest (typically they will sleep on the roost at night). If she stays in the main coop, you should use a felt pen to mark the eggs in case a new one is laid. I mark them with the date set since I tend to forget. All eggs should be set at the same time so the hatches are not staggered (it throws the hen off if some chicks hatch while others are still developing...typically she abandons those not yet hatched or stays and ignores those hatched).

Note when she began to sit on the eggs to anticipate chicks in about 21 days. She will sit faithfully 24x7 for 3 weeks (give or take a day) getting up only to eat, drink, and poo generally for 20 minutes once a day. She should be able to get easily to food and water to do so, and she should be able to get back to her nest easily without confusing where it is. (If any of that goes awry, she needs a separate brooding crate with bedding and with food, water close by, but not tippable into the nest, and a little area to poo).

It is often desirable to "candle" the eggs about 7 days after setting and again at 14 days to make sure they are developing. You have plenty of time to reset eggs as most hens will brood up to 5 weeks, especially Silkies, or until they get chicks. Obviously you don't want her to brood too long, as she can lose a lot of weight during the process, so checking at day 5 or 7 will give you an idea if they are growing chicks. You'll see a roadmap of veins. Just use a strong LED flashlight, shine up through the "fat" end of the egg while holding in one hand, in a dark area. You can candle again at day 14 just to make sure. By then you often get a dark blob on one end with some veins outreaching. Do not disturb nest from day 18 to 21 as that is "lock down" when the chicks get into position for hatching.

Once the chicks hatch, they stay with mom. Troubles only arise if your run has gaps or holes that chicks can strand themselves away from mom with a "stupid chick trick." ...Or if the other chickens cause problems and attack the chicks (most mellow flocks are fine with the chicks, and mom is very protective). My rooster is very protective of the chicks as well. The other hens simply ignore them. But you will have to be watchful until you observe how the others are doing with the chicks. Silkies generally make great moms and can be something of a diva with their chicks.

As to weather. I've hatched in all seasons, including dead of winter (stubborn Silkies...ice-snow storm middle of January, in low 20's, wind chill in low teens). Amazingly the little chicks do fine as long as they are out of direct weather (covered run, enclosed hutch). They run around in their little down jackets using momma as a warming hutch when needed. No heat other than momma is needed. Mom will sit with the chicks tucked under her for the first 2 days after hatch (they have enough food source from the absorbed yolk as they dry and gain strength), then she will lead them to food and water. Make sure that all are on the chick crumble and the water set up is such that a chick cannot get to it and drown (normal waterers with the gravity flow into a shallow bottom pan are fine, dog bowls are not, water nipples can be problematic depending on chick). Problems only arise if chicks can't make it up the ramp to the main coop. Momma will take up residence in the run, or wherever, not always an ideal safe place. I have a side coop that I use for more timid brooders that is large enough for momma and chicks the first week or two and the chicks don't have to navigate the ramp until they can fly (about 2 weeks).

If main run is not ideal for chicks, but coop is fine for hatching, momma will follow chicks happily anywhere after they hatch. Wait until they dry off and are fluffy before moving them with momma to your desired location. Moving momma with eggs is trickier. Some hens bond to the EXACT location they started the brood and will reject any other nest. Some hens will plop down on eggs wherever. If you do try to move with eggs, stand by and see if the hen is happy, check an hour later. I've had hens reject moves altogether to return to their first nest. It's generally better to settle a broody hen on a desired nest first, then give her eggs, rather than try to move her after she has settled on eggs.

That should get you started. Feel free to ask other questions if needed.

Lady of McCamley
Great info. Just what I needed. Thank you!!
 
Well, I think I messed up big time. I marked the original 2 eggs but now there are 7 eggs. I checked for other eggs every day and never found any. I assumed that the other hen just stopped laying because of the broody hen. I know now the mama hen was taking them. Without having to deal with different hatch times should I put the newer eggs in the incubator? Rookie mistake. How can I fix this?
Thanks!
 
Sorry I didn't see this until Friday (you posted Wednesday).
Yes. You can put the newly laid eggs in the incubator. Candle and watch them. She started them, so they should hatch a day or two early. Be aware that they are likely staggered if they were laid by only a few hens. If just 1 hen, that would be 7 days worth, so very staggered. (It takes 24 hours of setting to germinate the embryo. Once it is started, it is a straight 20 to 21 days to hatch, providing it stays developing).

Glad you marked the original 2...for reasons like this. In case I'm not clear, you should leave the original 2 eggs with the hen....putting only the staggered eggs in the incubator to see what develops.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
LofMc
 
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Sorry I didn't see this until Friday (you posted Wednesday).
Yes. You can put the newly laid eggs in the incubator. Candle and watch them. She started them, so they should hatch a day or two early. Be aware that they are likely staggered if they were laid by only a few hens. If just 1 hen, that would be 7 days worth, so very staggered. (It takes 24 hours of setting to germinate the embryo. Once it is started, it is a straight 20 to 21 days to hatch, providing it stays developing).

Glad you marked the original 2...for reasons like this. In case I'm not clear, you should leave the original 2 eggs with the hen....putting only the staggered eggs in the incubator to see what develops.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
LofMc
Thanks. I checked her today. She had 10 eggs. I took all but the original 2. However, I'm not at all sure of the viability of them. I candled the 8 that I brought in and they all look like the attached pictures. I did put them in the incubator but I'm not sure if there are in fact chicks in the eggs. Help!
 

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Those are all undeveloped eggs...which surprises me a bit if she was truly sitting on them for a number of days. However, we don't know how long she was sitting on them. Is it ONE hen that was laying? If so, then those eggs *should* represent day 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 in development if your Silkie was diligent....which means they weren't fertile.

Did you candle the original 2?

Have you checked your rooster for fertility? You will know if your boy has been busy and the eggs fertile by a "bullseye" on the egg yolk. The blastoderm is the female DNA...that is the little white circle on every yolk surface. The male DNA will be a white ring around that. Together they form sort of a "bullseye" on the yolk surface, generally toward the top of the sphere. If you crack a few eggs and aren't finding "bullseyes," then your boy isn't getting his job done. That could be from age or feather interference if you have fluffy bums. Male chickens do not have an appendage to insert. Fertilization transfer is merely done by the "cloaca kiss" or merely pressing their vents together. If there are too many bum feathers, efficiency is prevented.

So I'd crack a few of those "new" eggs open and check for fertility. I'd also candle the original 2 if you haven't done so yet.

LofMc
 
Thanks for the great info. I will shut down the incubator and discard the eggs. I have seen the bullseye before so maybe he is just hit and miss. I will candle the original 2 eggs and see what's in there. The hatch date is 9 days away.
Thanks again for your help and great info.!!
 
Lots of good questions about brooding. I have gone solely to broody hatching for the last 7 years using a variety of hens, including Silkies, because of the ease and success. I've hatched in designated broody hutches and in the main flock (depends on hen, depends on flock).

The answers depend a lot on your set up and a lot on your broody's temperament and your flock's temperament.

First, her location. If she is safe and out of foot traffic of the other 2, and her nest is safe, and the other 2 are calm tempered, she can stay where she is to hatch. Troubles only come if the other hen(s) try to lay eggs in the nest disturbing her and the eggs (pushing her or the eggs out) or they want to sit and roost with her in the nest (typically they will sleep on the roost at night). If she stays in the main coop, you should use a felt pen to mark the eggs in case a new one is laid. I mark them with the date set since I tend to forget. All eggs should be set at the same time so the hatches are not staggered (it throws the hen off if some chicks hatch while others are still developing...typically she abandons those not yet hatched or stays and ignores those hatched).

Note when she began to sit on the eggs to anticipate chicks in about 21 days. She will sit faithfully 24x7 for 3 weeks (give or take a day) getting up only to eat, drink, and poo generally for 20 minutes once a day. She should be able to get easily to food and water to do so, and she should be able to get back to her nest easily without confusing where it is. (If any of that goes awry, she needs a separate brooding crate with bedding and with food, water close by, but not tippable into the nest, and a little area to poo).

It is often desirable to "candle" the eggs about 7 days after setting and again at 14 days to make sure they are developing. You have plenty of time to reset eggs as most hens will brood up to 5 weeks, especially Silkies, or until they get chicks. Obviously you don't want her to brood too long, as she can lose a lot of weight during the process, so checking at day 5 or 7 will give you an idea if they are growing chicks. You'll see a roadmap of veins. Just use a strong LED flashlight, shine up through the "fat" end of the egg while holding in one hand, in a dark area. You can candle again at day 14 just to make sure. By then you often get a dark blob on one end with some veins outreaching. Do not disturb nest from day 18 to 21 as that is "lock down" when the chicks get into position for hatching.

Once the chicks hatch, they stay with mom. Troubles only arise if your run has gaps or holes that chicks can strand themselves away from mom with a "stupid chick trick." ...Or if the other chickens cause problems and attack the chicks (most mellow flocks are fine with the chicks, and mom is very protective). My rooster is very protective of the chicks as well. The other hens simply ignore them. But you will have to be watchful until you observe how the others are doing with the chicks. Silkies generally make great moms and can be something of a diva with their chicks.

As to weather. I've hatched in all seasons, including dead of winter (stubborn Silkies...ice-snow storm middle of January, in low 20's, wind chill in low teens). Amazingly the little chicks do fine as long as they are out of direct weather (covered run, enclosed hutch). They run around in their little down jackets using momma as a warming hutch when needed. No heat other than momma is needed. Mom will sit with the chicks tucked under her for the first 2 days after hatch (they have enough food source from the absorbed yolk as they dry and gain strength), then she will lead them to food and water. Make sure that all are on the chick crumble and the water set up is such that a chick cannot get to it and drown (normal waterers with the gravity flow into a shallow bottom pan are fine, dog bowls are not, water nipples can be problematic depending on chick). Problems only arise if chicks can't make it up the ramp to the main coop. Momma will take up residence in the run, or wherever, not always an ideal safe place. I have a side coop that I use for more timid brooders that is large enough for momma and chicks the first week or two and the chicks don't have to navigate the ramp until they can fly (about 2 weeks).

If main run is not ideal for chicks, but coop is fine for hatching, momma will follow chicks happily anywhere after they hatch. Wait until they dry off and are fluffy before moving them with momma to your desired location. Moving momma with eggs is trickier. Some hens bond to the EXACT location they started the brood and will reject any other nest. Some hens will plop down on eggs wherever. If you do try to move with eggs, stand by and see if the hen is happy, check an hour later. I've had hens reject moves altogether to return to their first nest. It's generally better to settle a broody hen on a desired nest first, then give her eggs, rather than try to move her after she has settled on eggs.

That should get you started. Feel free to ask other questions if needed.

Lady of McCamley
great advice. My silky hen just decided to be broody. she has 3 eggs inside the coop, not in the nest box. she has them in the middle of the coop. Can I move them over to a nest box? Can I add more eggs? I will mark and check them as well for fertility. I currently incubate bur decided if she wanted to help me out she can. It is currently cold out as well. She is keeping the eggs warm.
 
great advice. My silky hen just decided to be broody. she has 3 eggs inside the coop, not in the nest box. she has them in the middle of the coop. Can I move them over to a nest box? Can I add more eggs? I will mark and check them as well for fertility. I currently incubate bur decided if she wanted to help me out she can. It is currently cold out as well. She is keeping the eggs warm.
You can certainly move those eggs, with her, to a corner box. There's no guarantee she'll stay though if she can get to the original nesting place. It may be better to block her off with food and water until she settles. Some settle very quickly; others keep trying to go back to the original nest, or any nest, given half a chance. Depends on the hen, and you'll only know what kind of brooder she is until you try her out. You may have to give up and let her hatch that brood in the middle of the coop, as long as she is out of foot traffic.

If she has already started setting these first 3 eggs, do not add more when you move unless you toss the first 3. You would get a staggered hatch, meaning some hatching sooner than others. The mother will either stay with the eggs ignoring the hatched chicks' needs for food and water, or abandon the nearly hatched eggs to take care of the babes on day 2. Always set ALL eggs to be hatched at the same time to avoid staggered hatches.

Cold is generally not a worry. My Silkies started hatching in dead of January and February. I had one try to brood in November. They don't care. Babes don't care as long as they are out of direct weather and close to mom and can't get stranded away from her. (It really blows your mind going from artificial heat to momma warming hutch and the babes running around in the cold just fine. LOL).

Good luck.
LofMc
 

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