Building a coop-must haves in NC

[cluckcluckliv]

Hi all! We are wanting to build a coop for our freshly hatched chicks. We will have about 8-10 and are located in NC.

What is a good size for this amount of chickens? We plan to let them be out during the days.

I am wondering how insulated it needs to be for a climate that varies so much between seasons?

I was thinking of using acrylic for the windows so we can peek in while they are in their coop, and to ensure nothing can get in while they are in there but then I was slightly concerned about ventilation. How much ventilation will they need and what is the safest/best way to provide this and not have them exposed to snakes/rats and whatever else?

Is there a way to keep the poop from being everywhere, all the time?

Does anyone have a favorite automatic door?

 

[Are Moore]

10x 10 ft with a lot of opportunities for roosting. A step ladder + roosting bars per example. Vents opposite to usual wind direction. As many vent windows as you can make some higher to let hot air out and some others lower to allow fresh air in. Ventilation is more important as chickens can adapt better to cold weather by crowding close together. Chickens are more susceptible to heat stress. In case air flow is not adequate in spite of all ventilation windows, it would be helpful to create a space to position a solar fan within the window. Hardware cloth is sufficient to stop predators in ventilation holes. Roof must extent well over these ventilation holes to direct rain away from them or a small cover with hinges can be designed to cover them during rain.

 

[nuthatched]

@3KillerBs
You're in NC, aren't you?

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC and the wonderful world of chickens. from Moore County in the Sandhills.

What part of NC are you in? Climate matters in chicken keeping and it varies enough between the coastal plain and the mountains to make a difference.

Here is some general information for you:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

If you're anywhere other than the mountains I suggest an Open Air coop. Here in the Steamy Southeast, heat is MUCH more of a concern than cold. In fact, I find that unless I have DEEP shade I need at least 2-3 times the suggested minimum ventilation just to keep the coop under 100F on a 90F day.

You don't need acrylic or anything else solid over the windows, just 1/2" hardware cloth.

This is my article on hot climate chicken keeping. You can see my big coop featured in it. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

 

[cluckcluckliv]

10x 10 ft with a lot of opportunities for roosting. A step ladder + roosting bars per example. Vents opposite to usual wind direction. As many vent windows as you can make some higher to let hot air out and some others lower to allow fresh air in. Ventilation is more important as chickens can adapt better to cold weather by crowding close together. Chickens are more susceptible to heat stress. In case air flow is not adequate in spite of all ventilation windows, it would be helpful to create a space to position a solar fan within the window. Hardware cloth is sufficient to stop predators in ventilation holes. Roof must extent well over these ventilation holes to direct rain away from them or a small cover with hinges can be designed to cover them during rain.

Thank you so much! These are great tips.

 

[cluckcluckliv]

Welcome to BYC and the wonderful world of chickens. from Moore County in the Sandhills.

What part of NC are you in? Climate matters in chicken keeping and it varies enough between the coastal plain and the mountains to make a difference.

Here is some general information for you:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

If you're anywhere other than the mountains I suggest an Open Air coop. Here in the Steamy Southeast, heat is MUCH more of a concern than cold. In fact, I find that unless I have DEEP shade I need at least 2-3 times the suggested minimum ventilation just to keep the coop under 100F on a 90F day.

You don't need acrylic or anything else solid over the windows, just 1/2" hardware cloth.

This is my article on hot climate chicken keeping. You can see my big coop featured in it. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

Thanks so much! I will check it out. We are in the northern part of what I guess is considered the Piedmont!

 

[3KillerBs]

Thanks so much! I will check it out. We are in the northern part of what I guess is considered the Piedmont!

That would probably still be an area where you need to design for heat as your primary concern.

 

[cluckcluckliv]

That would probably still be an area where you need to design for heat as your primary concern.

Ok awesome. I definitely will. Thanks very much for replying!