Can I feed my meat birds layer crumbles....?

[Fred's Hens]

I fed my laying mash right along with my laying flock. I feel the increased calcium may have just been the best thing for them under the circumstances~increased liquid loss from constant diarrhea causes a loss of valuable electrolytes, one of which is calcium. Calcium is needed for proper muscle function and what do most CX die from? Heart failure under stress. What is the most prevalent problem CX have with mobility? Increased growth rate causes too heavy a bird on too weak of bones...which can be better strengthened by additional calcium in the diet. Muscle weakness is also contributed to calcium loss, along with the other needed electrolytes.

Imagine you were spending your whole life, from day one, squirting liquid feces. You would be weakened, prone to muscle dysfunction from your electrolyte loss, prone to heart rhythm changes from the loss in proper muscle function and tonicity, add to this the decreased mobility caused by these weakened muscles and the increased weight from overeating and immobility. You'd be a mess. High calcium would be the least of your worries. I'd be more worried about the high protein intake.

Which I was. So the lower protein percentages of the layer mash was the perfect solution.

I had very healthy birds that continued to forage up to 11 wks when they were processed and yielded healthy carcass weights and healthy organs.

sure you can. The calcium won't make a bit of difference in the long run because you're going to butcher them before the long run gets here what you will notice is a slower rate of gain due to the lower protein content, which also has it's advantages because that often leads to fewer losses due to flip. just plan on feeding them for an extra couple of weeks to reach the same size they would on the higher protein feed.

Good insights. Thanks to both of these responders. Much to consider.

 

[booker81]

Lower protein = slower growth. Higher protein = faster growth.

The middle usually is 20%. I like the middle, and get 21% raiser crumble from the local mill (nonmedicated). I finished the last batch dressed at 5-6lbs+ at 8 weeks. The 16% might take a week or more longer to get to that weight, the higher might take a week or more less. Either is fine as long as you understand the limitations.

The only thing I avoid is medicated feed, unless of course you have had issues with the diseases the medication is needed for. If you do medicated, read the tag to find out when you need to stop feeding it before slaughter.

 

[shadetech]

Not wishing to steal this thread.......

I am hoping to start a meat "program" with 6 straight run Dark Cornish. I hope to get perhaps 2 ladies out of six and use them for breeding over the long run. The others will be food with the exception of the one that looks most promising.

Not looking to raise these particular birds for meat, but for their offspring, what would you suggest I feed them. I understand Dark Cornish do not put on meat like the CX and take a great deal longer anyways. Looking to raise them for the long term. Healthy birds that produce viable eggs for future meat.

Am I looking at this the wrong way? I don't have funds to buy birds every year and am trying to develop a way for me to produce my own. Bee, I would greatly appreciate your input, as I have read many of your posts, both here and in other forums and have enormous respect. I assume I would keep these separate from the layers I intend to get to assure success. I do not mind getting separate feeds and am getting the ACV ready for all.

I have not raised chickens for 30 years, but am getting back into it now. All help is appreciated.

henry

 

[Beekissed]

I am flattered..and humbled that anyone actually reads my posts.

Thank you! Having said that, I probably am not the one to ask about breeding programs and their success.

My method of getting the right offspring for my flocks is to only keep hens that are high producers, or good producers with heavy builds, who are hardy, forage well and have longevity of lay. For the rooster I just choose breeds known for both qualities, so I might have a RIR roo and pair him with a Partridge Rock or White Rock to cover the flock of hens. That way I get an equal amount of mixed breeds with either or both qualities. No finesse here, or separating of flocks, just placing good over good to get good for a self-sustainable flock of birds that lay well but also can be processed after they are done or when they produce a roo offspring.

I seem to have success for my breeding purposes, but they are not the same needs as you are describing. I offer all birds the same feed, more or less, and adjust it as I see fit around my flock's current needs.

To get the best advice on breeding for pure blood and for a predominant trait, the folks to talk to are someone like al6517 or Fred as they seem to know much about breeding and Al knows about the Cornish Breed. I'm sorry I couldn't help you more on that.

As for alternative methods of feeding for a total health in meat birds and layers as well, I am working on a meat project experiment this spring that will use fermented grains for increased protein and less actually grain usage along with the natural probiotics found in the fermented mix, sprouted grains for increased nutritional benefit, and increased use of the UP/ACV in their water to replace electrolyte loss. The experiment's goal will be to increase nutritive value of feed for less cost, increase digestive health by preventing diarrhea stools,increased nutritional uptake by the same action and decrease feed consumption needs by doing so.

I want to encourage people with less money to view this bird in a different way..as something they CAN afford to raise and place in the freezer for their family, without excessive feed and equipment costs, and still have a healthy end product.

I applaud you for taking the other approach and experimenting with a long term goal of having a sustainable meat bird/egg source! I find it a noble goal and many have asked the question on here about doing so. I don't know how many are currently trying a breeding program to see if it can be done but I'll keep my eyes open for them.

 

[shadetech]

Hardly a noble goal. It is purely out of selfishness. I have the desire to survive and live as well as I can on what I have available and that which I can scrounge up, preferably without taking others ability to do the same.

A meat bird that may take a bit longer, yet provide meat on a sustainable basis is what I would like to accomplish. Many others on this forum have also expressed this wish. To be able to raise a bird that will provide meat with some efficiency and be able to be harvested as needed without refrigeration and minimum "puttin' up" would be ideal.

I could probably better afford to buy CX every year than to keep a small flock of meat birds. But how long will they be available? How long will I be able to afford them? How long will I be able to afford electric to keep them frozen? All very real concerns for many of us, me especially as times get harder and crazier.

Al's breeding of Cornish is amazing and he has tremendous knowledge of his birds and what is necessary to keep good bloodlines and beautiful birds. Fred has a wealth of knowledge that many of us can only hope for. Bee offers her experience and knowledge to us all. I am greatfull, and to all the others out there. I look forward to learning from you all.

henry

 

[stone_family3]

I've had several people recommend feeding catfish food to them with their regular food in order to "bulk them up". Is that true? I only have 3 birds and hope to get 6 more soon.

Here is what the old timers recommended to me

Nutri Source

Catfish Diet Floating Fish Food is nutritionally complete and is suitable for growing catfish over 4 inches in length.
Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein (min.) 32.00%, Crude Fate (min.) 4.00%, Crude Fiber (max.) 7.00%.