Can molting cause diarrhea

[happyhencamper]

Heavily molting hens. A few with diarrhea. One of them seems to not be emptying the crop. I posted another thread about that. It is hard to do any treatments because they are full and I mean full of pinfeathers.

Can they get diarrhea just from molting? Isn’t it going to be hard on them to treat them for worms during this time? I feel bad enough for the one I have separated, due to not emptying crop. I have been massaging her crop for two days, gave her water with electrolytes, probiotics, (hydro hen) , withheld food for one day. Offered plain Greek yogurt yesterday which she would not eat, She was standing alone from the others and sleeping in the nest box in addition to not emptying crop overnight, which is why I removed her.

Perhaps I should let this all play its course until the molting is over and then treat them for worms. I just treated them for worms and coccidiosis in the spring. I was relieved when it was over and didn’t think I would have to do it again this soon.

I have never used a ACV but I’m wondering if I should start? A lot of people use it a lot think it’s worthless. Hard to tell but worth a try. Is it OK to start this during a molt?

 

[coach723]

If you want to worm, Valbazen (albendazole) is ok to use during molt. Safeguard (fenbendazole) has the possibility of causing feather growth issues if used during molt.
How old are they? Sometimes molt is really hard on them, they don't eat well, they lose weight, their immune systems are weaker. Does the crop feel like it has a hard mass, or is it soft and squishy? Do they have access to grit all the time (not the same as oyster shell for calcium)? What are you feeding, including all treats? ACV is unlikely to help, and may put them off the water if they aren't used to it. I would just make sure they have fresh, clean water. I often give my molting birds a b complex tablet or capsule daily when they are having a hard time. The B's are very safe, extra will be excreted. When they don't eat well, they can get deficient.

 

[happyhencamper]

If you want to worm, Valbazen (albendazole) is ok to use during molt. Safeguard (fenbendazole) has the possibility of causing feather growth issues if used during molt.
How old are they? Sometimes molt is really hard on them, they don't eat well, they lose weight, their immune systems are weaker. Does the crop feel like it has a hard mass, or is it soft and squishy? Do they have access to grit all the time (not the same as oyster shell for calcium)? What are you feeding, including all treats? ACV is unlikely to help, and may put them off the water if they aren't used to it. I would just make sure they have fresh, clean water. I often give my molting birds a b complex tablet or capsule daily when they are having a hard time. The B's are very safe, extra will be excreted. When they don't eat well, they can get deficient.

I only have fenbendazole and they are so bad it will be painful and stressful to hold and catch them. They are tame but not to hold. four 2 yr olds, four 4 yr olds, one 8 yr old and one 10 yr old. The 10 yr old is not molting and the 2 yr olds it is the 1st molt. the 4 yr olds are the ones having a bad molt. The crop is squishy and after a day of no food and hydro hen I was able to massage in circle and downward. It did empty. I gave her yogurt yesterday which she will not eat and scrambled eggs this morning she did not eat those either. Yes they have access to grit at all times. Layer Crumbled and I throw layer pellets for treats, scratch that is mostly black oil sunflower seeds. I have B liquid I could syringe it or put in water. Not sure how much to put in water? They are just going to be so stressed if I try to catch them and hold them on those big pin feathers. I thought for sure she would eat the eggs. I never had one that wouldn't eat at all. At this point maybe she is stressed being away from the others and maybe I should just put her back in and let nature take it's course. It may just be the molting who knows. I can do nystatin but can't do a second look to see if she is emptying if she won't eat. I feel bad for her being all alone in the quarantine coop. Can molting cause diarrhea?

 

[coach723]

I don't usually see diarrhea, but it depends on what they are eating. Dairy can sometimes cause upset also, so yogurt is not always good. Just give it in really small amounts if you do. If you need to do something, wait until after dark when they are roosting, take them off the roosts to do it. They are usually calmer and mellower then, makes it easier. I understand not wanting to handle them when they are so uncomfortable, but sometimes you have to. Just be gentle. Try putting her back with the others, or put her in a wire crate in the run with the others, that will reduce stress but still allow you to monitor her. If her stress is reduced, maybe she will start to eat something, some birds just don't do well when separated. Since her crop did empty, that's good, at least it's not at full stop. Nystatin is probably not needed at this point. I try to not add things to water unless I absolutely have to, I want them drinking, not put off by anything in the water. So I would give it orally. I just get the tablets or capsules, pop it in and done. You can get generic ones anywhere pretty inexpensively. Poultry nutri drench can sometimes help with appetite, but only use for a few days, it can cause diarrhea if used longer. You can also try offering some canned tuna, some people will use canned cat food also sometimes, to entice them to eat. A difficult molt is, well, just difficult.
It's also possible that there is more going on, it's very hard to say. I would work on what you know is going on, and observe, see if anything changes.

 

[Abdul94]

yes

 

[Sarahh_Janeyy]

Ours have diarrhea because they are also cryptosporidiosis positive and molting stresses them enough for them to have a flare up. I'm not sure if it's normal. Definitely would offer supportive electrolyte mix alongside fresh water.