Causes of chick to not internally pip?

Natattack76

In the Brooder
Jan 18, 2016
17
0
24
Oklahoma
I got a 57% hatch rate this round (second time hatching eggs). I have a Brinsea Octagon 20. Today was day 24 with no activity. I did candle last night, no movement, no sounds, no internal pips. I did the float test today, no sinkers, bobbers, no movement. I 'pipped' the air sac. Out of 5 eggs that ended up being non-viable, all but 1 appeared fully developed, & all did not pip internally. Didn't know of possible causes??? Genetics? Health? Humidity? Temp?

My temp was 37.5-37.6 celsius, RH was a steady 45% up until lockdown. RH during lockdown was 65-70%, highest being 72-73% when several chicks were hatching. I did not have any power outages. I opened the incubator at appropriate times.

Just looking for feedback as what to do differently to increase rates, or is 57% the average? Thanks!!!
 

howfunkyisurchicken

Crowing
9 Years
Apr 11, 2011
9,281
820
361
Tn
Genetics, temp, humidity, nutrition of the breeders, illness in the breeders, improper storage of hatching eggs, bacterial infection...there are lots of factors that can throw off a hatch.

I'd guess something went awry during your incubation, perhaps a temp/humidity issue, since you did end up with more than half hatching.

Did you calibrate all of your instruments before you got started? It seems like a simple thing, but a lot of folks skip it. If you're not getting a corrrect read out, you're pretty much doomed from the start. I know Brinseas are know as a "set it and forget it" 'bator, and that Brinsea states the built in thermometer and hygrometer are calibrated from the factory, but I've also seen a lot of posts from members here that state that they're off when they check them. You'll probably want to pop a reliable, calibrated therm and hygro in there just to make sure that isn't the problem...
 

Natattack76

In the Brooder
Jan 18, 2016
17
0
24
Oklahoma
Thanks, I will definitely check out this link. I will also plan to 'double check' temps and humidity before the next hatch I incubate. I was wondering if it was also because the eggs set out too long before incubating? We had them out about 10 days before incubating as we were waiting on a batch of eggs from a friend. They were set and turned appropriately beforehand, just wondering if it was too long. I've read that after 7 days hatch rates drop. Thanks again for the info!
 

sumi

Rest in Peace 1980-2020
Premium Feather Member
8 Years
Jun 28, 2011
39,154
26,248
1,302
Hatch ability drops quickly after 10 days. Up until then they are in the "fine" range, so yours were fresh enough and stored correctly from the sounds of things. I missed that you hatched in a Brinsea, I had the same model and found they do hold temp and humidity very well.
 

grandbayou

Chirping
Apr 4, 2016
91
34
91
I got a 57% hatch rate this round (second time hatching eggs). I have a Brinsea Octagon 20. Today was day 24 with no activity. I did candle last night, no movement, no sounds, no internal pips. I did the float test today, no sinkers, bobbers, no movement. I 'pipped' the air sac. Out of 5 eggs that ended up being non-viable, all but 1 appeared fully developed, & all did not pip internally. Didn't know of possible causes??? Genetics? Health? Humidity? Temp?

My temp was 37.5-37.6 celsius, RH was a steady 45% up until lockdown. RH during lockdown was 65-70%, highest being 72-73% when several chicks were hatching. I did not have any power outages. I opened the incubator at appropriate times. 

Just looking for feedback as what to do differently to increase rates, or is 57% the average? Thanks!!!
 

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