changing thermostat help in LG

lostsoulhelpmejebus

Incubating Fool
11 Years
Sep 23, 2008
642
4
141
Roanoke, Illinois
I just bought water heater electronic thermostats for all 3 bators. I have 1 LG's and 2 Hova's. Has anyone else swapped out the thermostats in an LG and if so where did you end up mounting the new one? Hubby seems to think that he can drill a whole in the top so he can place it outside above the previous one so I can get at the temp adjustment. Can anyone tell me the best way this can be mounted, please?
 
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I hope you dont have eggs in them, already!

The water heater thermos are notorious for giving trouble.
This is mostly due to the fact that they lack two things: resolution and reaction time.
They are designed to control a water mass in a range of about 10 degrees, when we are looking to control a small incubator air mass in a range equal to one tenth that.
Water has much more thermal inertia to it as well, when compared to a small air mass in a tight chamber. The fact that they are surface mounted to react to this inertial mass means they react slower, further adding to the list of things against them.

That said, a thermostat is placed in an air mass to control the temperature in the air - so placing it's esnsing surface anywhere but inside seems fruitless.
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Honestly, I am just thinking this out. I could be way off, but if people's experiences here with them here is anything to go by - I don't think I am. Those who are successful with them seem to be only marginally so and they go through quite a bit if testing and modification before they can deem them reliable.
I have avoided them since day one for all the reasons mentioned. I use good old fashioned wafer switches or electronic temperature controllers, instead. I reckon I can cut corners in many ways, but not with the heart of the system - the controller.

Good luck. Others will be along to add their input, so be patient.
 
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I appreciate any ideas, suggestions, plans, etc that are constructive. I have the 2 Hova's full, while the LG was empty I thought it would be a good time to replace the thermostat. I have been trolling the archives looking for info before I posted...guess I am just not tech savvy, I need the "incubator for dummies" explanations...LOL

I did see a post ( it was in a cabinet style ) where someone mounted the thermostat to a tin can, they were trying to mimic the way the thermostat works in a water heater. Post stated that with the guard placed over the whole business, they kept a -/+ .5 degree variance. Would you think that placing a metal plate between the thermostat and the styrofoam that might make it work better?

**edited because I can't spell well without the influence of caffeine**
 
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I appreciate any ideas, suggestions, plans, etc that are constructive. I have the 2 Hova's full, while the LG was empty I thought it would be a good time to replace the thermostat. I have been trolling the archives looking for info before I posted...guess I am just not tech savvy, I need the "incubator for dummies" explanations...LOL

I did see a post ( it was in a cabinet style ) where someone mounted the thermostat to a tin can, they were trying to mimic the way the thermostat works in a water heater. Post stated that with the guard placed over the whole business, they kept a -/+ .5 degree variance. Would you think that placing a metal plate between the thermostat and the styrofoam that might make it work better?

**edited because I can't spell well without the influence of caffeine**

I think you have hit on something there. Placed against a water filled metal container inside th chamber might do the trick. It would br crowded, but it might do the job.

Or you might just chuck it, call it all a "lesson learned" and go with one of these:

http://www.cheappetproducts.net/Repti_-_Temp_500WATT_THERMOSTAT_with_PROBE-P69363.html

By the time all your experimenting is done and your water heater thermo is finally operational, I suspect the money spent would even out. I say this in the spirit of constructive criticism, of course, having been there, and done much of this myself.
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Though I use HWT in a diy hatcher and it works flawlessly, I would not use one in a styro bator as anything other than a emergency shutoff.

As stated a HWT has about 6 to 10 range way to much swing for incubation. They can be made to cycle much faster by mounting them close to a light bulb used as a heat source, bringing the range to 2 degrees. There is no room for a light bulb in a styro bator, and not enough circulation to not create a extreme hot spot.

Replace your thermostat with a wafer, or better yet a reptile thermostat, they are designed like a thermometer with a lead. The control is outside the bator and the sensor is inside.

I DO use HWT as shutoffs in my styro bators, for this they work fine, I set mine for 102 just in case the main fails. And then they will kick back in at 96, not ideal but would get by until the main is replaced.
 
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Water heater thermostat is not "electronic" like some dishonest sellers on ebay and eggbid call it.

It is 19 century technology, piece of metal expands to close then open the circuit.

You can buy it at Lows for $9.00

Thermostat is the heart and the most important component of any bator.

This is one piece of a bator component you do not want to skimp on.

Buy the best you can afford, very good quality thermostats start in 22-30 $ range.

Electronic thermostat has his own separatly powered integrated circuit to control set temperature.

Water heater termostat is very inacurrate and causing wide swings in temperature.

It may work better in larger bator whith greater air volume.

But LG original thermostat is piece of junk too.
 
Thanks for all the advice. It appears that the HWT will be going into the new cabinet style incubator hubby will be building for me. I ordered the Reptitemp 500R from PetsMart.com...27.99 plus 5.99 shipping. For some reason it is a web only item; called the local stores and they do not carry it...weird. So next weekend hubby will mod the LG...I agree 1000% that the original thermostat is junk!
 

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