how do these plans look to ya' all??? also does anyone now how to tell what the dementions would be?
Chicken coop!
- Thread starter ButtonquailGirl14
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #2
apparently it didn't upload the file
- Thread starter
- #3
That's a nice plan.
I might be wrong, but I'm guessing you didn't draft the plans, since you don't know the dimensions. If that's true, where did the plans come from, maybe the dimensions are there?
Do you have plans for the style or what it will look like?
I might be wrong, but I'm guessing you didn't draft the plans, since you don't know the dimensions. If that's true, where did the plans come from, maybe the dimensions are there?
Do you have plans for the style or what it will look like?
- Thread starter
- #5
these are my plans, i used one note. i want it to just look nice, like barn stlyle, nothing too out of the ordinary.
You're very creative!
Go to Staples and get a big graph paper pad that has quarter inch squares. Don't get the 8.5 inch by 11 inch pad, instead get the bigger one.
Use a scale of 2 blocks per foot, that's a nice big scale that'll make it easy to do your layout.
It looks very big, so start with the assumption of the building size being 10 feet by 20 feet, that's a Woods module. Your basic layout seems to work with Woods.
The narrow south end (where your diagonal perches are) will be always open wire. You could put 18 inches of open wire just above the frame on the east and west sides that you can close with a clear plastic roof panel in the winter, but will be open wire in the other three seasons.
Go to Staples and get a big graph paper pad that has quarter inch squares. Don't get the 8.5 inch by 11 inch pad, instead get the bigger one.
Use a scale of 2 blocks per foot, that's a nice big scale that'll make it easy to do your layout.
It looks very big, so start with the assumption of the building size being 10 feet by 20 feet, that's a Woods module. Your basic layout seems to work with Woods.
The narrow south end (where your diagonal perches are) will be always open wire. You could put 18 inches of open wire just above the frame on the east and west sides that you can close with a clear plastic roof panel in the winter, but will be open wire in the other three seasons.
- Thread starter
- #7
that was my plan, thanks!!!
If after playing with the 10x20 module, you don't find it large enough to accomplish your goals, simply double your width to 20 feet.
Woods felt this was the largest acceptable module size that would produce the still (draft free) air cushion at the rear of the coop where your flock will roost, draft free.
However, if more space is needed than that, you add it through the use of additional buildings.
As a happy coincidence, if you end up needing the 20x20 module, Woods actually recommends placing a solid barrier down the center of the module, going from the rear wall towards the front open wire, south facing wall, but stoping a few feet short of the front wall. Chickens can then move freely between the two sides.
However, your goals call for many different segregated areas, so this center wall would jibe nicely with your plan, creating two halves, that you can subdivide further.
But please be warned, any further subdividing of the 20x20 module, beyond the solid center wall, MUST NOT be solid, but only using open wire.
To do otherwise, destroys the Woods ventilation system, and will jeopardize the health of your flock.
Other than winter, when only the south face is always left open, you'll need additional ventilation to cool the coop. It could be windows on the east, west, and north sides, or even just 18 inches of open wire on the east and west sides, starting just above the bottom frame, as I suggested in my previous post.
In the photo below of the Flying Fortress Chicken Tractor, you'll notice I used the open south face technique, also combined with 18 inches of open wire on the east and west sides, that are closed with clear roofing panels in the winter.
As you can see, you don't need a classic coop design, or even a coop at all (this is a tractor), to use the Woods principles of ventilation.
His sustem is the simplest, and easiest, way to insure the health of your flock!
Good luck on your new adventure! What fun you're going to have, envisioning and bringing to life your ideas!
Woods felt this was the largest acceptable module size that would produce the still (draft free) air cushion at the rear of the coop where your flock will roost, draft free.
However, if more space is needed than that, you add it through the use of additional buildings.
As a happy coincidence, if you end up needing the 20x20 module, Woods actually recommends placing a solid barrier down the center of the module, going from the rear wall towards the front open wire, south facing wall, but stoping a few feet short of the front wall. Chickens can then move freely between the two sides.
However, your goals call for many different segregated areas, so this center wall would jibe nicely with your plan, creating two halves, that you can subdivide further.
But please be warned, any further subdividing of the 20x20 module, beyond the solid center wall, MUST NOT be solid, but only using open wire.
To do otherwise, destroys the Woods ventilation system, and will jeopardize the health of your flock.
Other than winter, when only the south face is always left open, you'll need additional ventilation to cool the coop. It could be windows on the east, west, and north sides, or even just 18 inches of open wire on the east and west sides, starting just above the bottom frame, as I suggested in my previous post.
In the photo below of the Flying Fortress Chicken Tractor, you'll notice I used the open south face technique, also combined with 18 inches of open wire on the east and west sides, that are closed with clear roofing panels in the winter.
As you can see, you don't need a classic coop design, or even a coop at all (this is a tractor), to use the Woods principles of ventilation.
His sustem is the simplest, and easiest, way to insure the health of your flock!
Good luck on your new adventure! What fun you're going to have, envisioning and bringing to life your ideas!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #9
Wow! Thanks!
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