chicks dying after being perfectly healthy

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That may very well be good generalized advice, especially if raising a large number of chicks in a huge brooder. But since I am a smallholder, I have had to figure out what works best for me and my birds. The 250 watt bulb heats 2-3 rooms of the house when I use it, so I went to the lower wattage. I use a brooder bin that holds only 25 chicks so the 100 watt red works for me. By the time I move them to the bigger brooder they no longer need that much heat.

It seems that higher heat often leads to panting, seizures and possibly even the reoccurance of pasty butt.

Another thing to consider- many sources of info commercially available may be coming from sources that lack actual hands-on experience with chicks/chickens. It's like asking someone at the local feed store- they may have grown up with birds and have learned a lot. OR, they may have been hired for their retail sales experience. I prefer to rely on my own experience, the experience of friends, and the carefully examined info in books and online.

ETA: I know what you mean about all the conflicting information available- to this day I do NOT know how I didn't kill my first 2 hens!
 
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It is not too hot in the brooder, they have food, have water, I use pine shavings. They have game bird crumbles because our feed mill hasn't starting making chick starter yet.
There isn't any gases or anything like that venting into the basement. It am stumped.
 
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Why on earth are they telling people to use a 250 watt light bulb!?!?!?!? That will FRY chicks! for 10 chicks a 60 watt will do fine. 250? Oh my godness, for ten youd have fried chicken!! It sounds like who ever wrote that my pet chicken artical is trying to get you to kill your own birds.
 
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I feel absolutely HORRIBLE. I thought they were too cold at first, and people recamended adding another heat lamp and putting a towel over the top. I am so confused and I feel so terrible. I can't believe I actually cooked 11 chicks and a turkey.
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I planned to put a thermometer in there at first, but it wasn't working and people said the best way to tell is from their body language. Before getting them, I read so many articles and books about brooding chicks, and I still do this.
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All those little lives, all that money and I killed them.
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Now I still have 3 lethargic chicks that will not eat. I finally found an old thermometer after searching the barn. It said it was 106F directly under the lamp.
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I raised it up a lot, and I am going to go check it now. To the OP, I am sorry if I took over your post, I hope your chicks are okay.
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I am going to throw this out there because it was mentioned to me once from a breeder - I would back off on using too many vitamins - They do not need them
Chicks should really need only sugar water (I don't use it) or ACV in their water. Polyvisol and water with extra vitamins and minerals could be overdosing them.
If no one feels the same, well, it happens to humans too. My DH almost landed in the hospital from an overdose of vitamins - over a period of time. So, it can happen to chicks,t oo. I'm not saying that this is what caused it, but it could be
 
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I agree. For the first couple days I will have a little sugar in their water but have never used anything else. The chick starter and/or feed has all they need in it.
 
Bock, I am fine with you jumping in. I read your thread too and see you are having similar problems. Perhaps yours are getting too warm, but just because it was hot under the lamp wouldn't necessarily mean that they were getting cooked. Do they have somewhere to get out of the heat? The towel is too much unless you have them in a really cold place to begin with? I have a 250-watt heat lamp over mine. I do not use a thermometer because I monitor their behavior. I also put my hand under the lamp and if it feels to hot to the back of my hand, it is too close and I adjust. The other thing is circulation and space. I have about 5 or 6 square feet for 10 chicks. I had about 25 in the same tub last year for the first few days and they all did great. So, I know I don't have an overcrowding issue. When they get big enough to jump and flap out, I put a screen over the top. It works, and I have done it this way with over 100 chicks and no problems.

I know these chicks were late hatchers, I got them to keep my one lone hatcher company. These chicks were what was left over after the breeder sold all the others he had and shipped them out.

The Brahma chick is still up on its legs and can walk around, but it is gasping. It isn't eating and isn't drinking. I have dipped its beak in the water a few times, but it doesn't do it on its own. It will probably be dead by morning, but I am most concerned with why this is happening. I have not see this with hatchery chicks and wonder if what I am seeing is something that would be avoided with vaccinated chicks. I don't think these were.

As for vitamins, I don't normally go out and give all my chicks extra vitamins. I put the vitamin/electrolyte powder in their water for the first few weeks they are in the brooder and then stop when they go outside. The use of PolyViSol is recommended by a lot of people who swear by using it for weak and failing chicks who suddenly jump back up and go again within a few hours. Yes, there is such a thing is overdoing it, but I would hardly be one to even come close to overdosing my chickens on vitamins.

This could just be something congenital, but I would like to know an answer if someone did have it.
 
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If I went by their advice, my chicks would be frying!!I have a very small indoor brooder and my 125 bulb keeps it so warm in there. Even with the brooder lights about 12 inches above their head, they stay at the perfect temp. 250 would kill mine.


To the Original poster, I'm so sorry about your chicks. This is my greatest fear. Seemingly healthy chicks just dying. I hope you are able to figure it out so that you don't loose anymore.
 
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I agree with your suggestions. If you had a leak from propane, or the brooder is to hot, they might have died from that.
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