chicks infected with avian pox....need ur advice.

sweetpea

Hatching
10 Years
Apr 15, 2009
1
0
7
i've 18 chicks .7 are 3 months old ,4 are of 5 months n 2 are 2 months old broiler.All have symptoms of avian pox n I don't know what to do.They r dying one by one.initially small nodules appear on their face,head n other parts of body but they act normal.After a few days they become a bit lethargic n they like to sit in sun.They lose their apetite after 2 or 3 days n gets weaker n weaker.Finally dies.There is one vet over here in my area but he is not a qualified one.He gave some antibiotic but that is of no help.

Im so worried ,don't know what to do?I need your help if u can give me an advice.


Thanks for ur advice in advance
 
Try calling your county's agricultural extension service, or if you have a university close by with an ag program, give them a call. They can do a necropsy on one of your dead birds and tell you for sure what you are dealing with. Good luck.
 
Here's an actual article that might help. https://www.backyardchickens.com/LC-diseases-AvianPox.html

Have
you checked inside the beaks of your birds? Usually dry pox (which sounds like the version you're describing) doesn't cause mortalities.

The thing with pox is that while it may not be terribly harmful in itself, it lowers the immune system and thus leaves the birds susceptible to other secondary conditions. I suspect if you truly have dry pox (which we'll determine after throat exams to rule out wet pox) then you're having an issue with a secondary issue. That issue needs to be found and corrected.

In all cases where immune systems are compromised (which is anything from stress to illness), it's always a wise practice (and necessary in my opinion) to boost the immunity and nutrition and hydration of your flock.

First, hydration - they should all be drinking. Pox in the summertime can be uncomfortable to birds, but it's a time where they really should be keeping hydrated. The heat stress is in itself enough to kill a bird, much less a compromised one.

Second, in order for the body to fight its best fight, it has to have fuel. Birds who don't feel well often don't eat as heartily as those who do. As a result, they aren't getting as much nutrition at a time when they really need more. Because of this, any time I see "lethargy" I boost fuel. That means providing richer and more nutrient-available foods without changing the main 90% of the diet, which should remain consistent for the sake of their bacterial load.

Foods I'll add as the last 10% of the diet are boiled/mashed/wetted eggs, plain unflavored yogurt (1 teaspoon per day at least per adult bird - no more than 2 tablespoons - graduate down for smaller birds), sometimes a bit of babyfood applesauce (to keep their digestive tract flowing but not flowing too fast - also helps keep the bacteria in their guts happy), and sometimes I use medicated starter in older birds (as their less than 10% or even their 90% if they won't eat their regular food) because of its richness of nutrition and coccidiostatic activity.

I also like to use organic apple cider vinegar in their water as this time to help get their digestive tract pH back in line for the benefit of good bacteria and the detriment of the bad. (1 teaspoon per gallon of water.) The reason I use organic is not because of the philosophy, but because of its manufacturing process which is bacterial, not chemical. The "mother" of the vinegar (beneficial bacteria) are still in the vinegar. That's the "gunk" at the bottom - the good stuff.

If the birds at all look anything less than spunky and constantly hungry, I would also recommend vitamins - not in the water, but by mouth. Enfamil polyvisol non-iron formula (CVS stores has that formula) contains a healthy dose of vitamin A which is a very beneficial vitamin when fighting pox. It also contains other vitamins to support immunity and antioxidants. Two to three drops in the beak of the bird depending on size daily during stress, illness, treatment.

This combination of foodstuffs will help give them energy and the 'tools' to fight the infection better.

For feeding the eggs, etc, feed it first thing in the morning as their first meal. You can wet it slightly, but I usually find birds are more offended at sticky than slightly wet. So start dry and find out how much moisture you can add til they eat it.

In the mean time, i would highly recommend examining the rest of the body thoroughly to try and rule out some secondary issue. Be sure to check how meaty their keel area is (their "keel score"). They shouldn't have a protruding keel like a spatula - it should be more like the keel of a boat where you can feel the keel bone, but with nice rounded firm flesh to either side. Not too mushy, not too thin.

Also check them carefully for parasites. A combination of parasites (mites, lice) and pox is deadly. Check them at night as mites often come out at night and hide during the day. Use a flashlight and a light sheet/pillowcase as you ruffle through their feathers, looking carefully at their skin and feather shafts. Pay particular attention to the backs of their necks and their vent area. Rule parasites out for more peace of mind. If you find parasites, you must not only treat the bird (dusting - permethrins - poultry dust) but also your premises (dusting - nestboxes, bedding, under the bedding, cracks in the wood, etc) with a permethrin. DE is a prevention method and not a treatment of actual infestations. You can use DE to good effect for long term maintenance.

So summary:
check their throats and roof of their mouths for wet pox signs
boost their nutrition
make sure they're drinking and keeping cool
rule out other issues like parasites or weight loss
treat the scabs as outlined in the above-listed site (pick and treat w/iodine)

Please let us know what you find and how it's going. Thank you, and good luck!
 
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